High Tide 112514

Surf Report: 2-3 feet
Atmosphere: Sunny
Water: Cool
Winds: None

Found parking on the street!! I was excited to get to the beach today with the strong Santa Ana winds today. The weather is dry but the waves are still good. But, I'm on the late train once again... I gotta snap out of it.

There were waves today... but the high tide was killing it. It is so mushy right now with the high tide, I can't believe that the waves are even breaking. I consider ourselves lucky to be able to surf these conditions instead of it just pounding on the shore.

The sunlight baked me inside of my wetsuit as I trotted down to the sand. I can see familiar figures in the line up, including Mr. Mike the Vet, Roy, and a few other locals.

 

There were sets coming in, but they weren't breaking in the punchy beach break fashion. They would roll through and then pitch on the inside.

Bruce calls to me, "It's a lot like Sunday!" as he made his way down the beach, foamie in hand. 

 Once out there, I was so thankful for being blessed by these conditions. Not too gnarly, but the sets were big enough so that they would allow some maneuvers on the face. If I was on the wrong board, I would have called it a shitty day, but I was on my favorite Neck Beard.

Trusty old Neck Beard... how I would love to grow one. But until I get my chia beard, I'll settle for the surf board.

I see Toby on a short board, but I hear him first. He has this trademark whistle he does to "call" the waves. Him and his blue hair, and his gorgeous wife with her blue hair. They both surfing together makes me smile.

Toby snakes an older local. He apologizes with a smile. "Sorry, I was on a longer board yesterday so I'm used to taking off on the shoulder!"

I don't remember many of the waves I got this day, except that it was just a beautiful day with great SoCal conditions. I felt great after my surf sesh, and the feeling of euphoria soaked me like the salt water from head to toe. I wish I had arrived earlier, but hey, if I hadn't, I wouldn't have scored free parking on the street!

I missed Bri on her last day in LA before she left for Oregon, so that was a small bummer.

I know I won't be surfing for the next few days, since I'm house sitting for a dog, and cooking for Thanksgiving.

Thankful that I got my surf in before the holiday!

Mahalos Mother Ocean.

Can't Remember Shit 112414

Surf Report: 2-3 feet
Water: Cool
Winds: ??
Atmosphere: ??

Don't really remember much this session, except that I was late, and Bri and I missed each other. She was heading back to Oregon for the holidays, so DRC will be a bit short-handed during the Thanksgiving Holiday.

Kitty keeping watch of our house

There were waves breaking, but they were kinda weak all session. Regardless, I remember having fun!

Maddie and her dad, Chad, were out surfing with me. She snaked me again, but this time she didn't fall. I guess I was just spreading the stoke today. We all hooted her to go for big waves, and she was charging them.

She's riding a thick board, but is able to duck dive it.

"You can duck dive that thing?" I ask.

"Yea! It's like scooping ice cream," she answered, motioning with both her arms a scooping motion.

"Chocolate? Or fruit based?"

"Pshhhh... CHOCOLATE. Fruit is just a waste."

Mahalos Mother Ocean

All You Need is One 112314

Surf Report: 2-3 feet, occ. 4 footer
Water: Cool
Atmosphere: Slightly cloudy
Winds: Calm

Khang needs his fins back. He's moving to NYC in about nine days. Well, I do need to get my Neck Beard's middle fin screw out - it's stripped. It's been stripped since my Trestles trip with Matt and Bri, and I've been riding it as a quad for the longest time. I prefer thruster, but I have been putting off getting the board repaired until now.

I go to Riders Shack, and Jay see's my board and freaks out. "Dude, gimme your board. We need to sand that down." He points at the shotty repair job of my knee going through the board in Mexico.

Jay sands everything down, and scrapes the wax off the bottom of my board. He removed the stripped screw out with precision, and we take out all of the other fins. I purchase a set of Jordy Smith futures from Riders Shack.

"These don't have the speed like you did with the Black Stix, but you'll have a lot more drive during your turns. This is all I ride around here," Jay advises. I feel like I have a brand new board.

I expected today to be a crowded day. Scoring yesterday with empty surf, I know I was telling everyone I met how we scored. And I know everyone who surfed yesterday told everyone how they scored. So it was only logical to expect a crowd.

When I wake up, there is wind howling outside my window. I can see the trees swaying back and forth. Shit, is it blown out already? Should I even go? None of my friends will be out today... I still should go.

I get to a semi-empty parking lot. But the wind isn't on it... Interesting...

The surf is still good, but it isn't as consistent as yesterday. The size has dropped off, and so the swell isn't pushing through the high tide. The lulls are longer, and the waves look like shit from the parking lot. However, a set breaks, and there are three waves to a set. They peel softly, much like yesterday, and then fade out on the inside like a whisper of smoke.

I know I'll be pushing my luck today if I take the waves to the inside. The shore pound is looking ominous!! As I stretch, I see Jose get crushed under the white shore pound. His board flies up as he gets compressed under the sand. He comes up with sand all over his sun-bronzed face.

"Have fun Klaude!" he says to me.

The tide is rising quickly... and I have to get some waves fast before it swamps out. The sets are few and far between, but they are coming... Just be patient.

I see the regular locals out in the water today. Not too crowded either. I say hi to people I pass by - those I know, and those I don't know alike. Treat everyone equally, on land and especially in the water.

For some reason, I can't get my rhythm at all this morning. I remember catching some waves, but they all mush out, and then I see someone else getting a long ass ride. I don't know why but I'm only getting a few pumps in before the wave just loses power...

"It was better earlier," says Mr. Mike, the Vietnam Vet. 

One of the locals there, Evans, is on the right waves today. I don't understand how we are sitting right next to each other, yet he is getting all the good waves, while I get the shitty ones. We aren't that different in surf ability, either. Sometimes, all you need is luck.

I finally get a nice left that I get two carves in. I flounder on the inside, debating if I should catch another. However, I decide against paddling back out and paddle in. Well, at least I got my best wave on my last wave. Sometimes, all you need is ONE.

Mahalos Mother Ocean!

Next One 112214

Surf Report: 3-4 feet solid
Water: Warm
Atmosphere: Sunny
Winds: Offshore

SKUNKED!!

I've been battling a small cold for the last week. It's nothing serious, but I've been coughing a lot, sleeping a lot more, and not being able to surf. I got skunked on Wednesday, November 19th. Fucking flat ass Ocean. The worst hit me on Thursday, and I drank a lot of hot tea and went swimming with  my dad. I know I squirted a lot of nose juices and lung cookies out into the swimming pool, and after an hour of swimming, I felt like myself again.

Not only that, but mom made us Oden!! It's a traditional Japanese hot pot dish suiting our very needs in order to warm up after a cold day.

OH DAYUM! It's O-den

So Friday, I stayed in to recover a bit more. I really wanted to surf since Matt is going to Japan after this weekend. His time is limited...

Saturday rolls around, and I'm determined to surf. I have to surf today... last day for Matt!!

where is my wallet?

I can't find my wallet at all. Time is running out!! Where is my wallet? I know I had it last night... Well maybe I left it at work. I'll have to search again when I get home from surfing. 

I'm late to arrive at 26th Street. And there's no parking. Of course not. There's a line to get into both lots. I can see Khang's car in the lower lot, waiting for a spot. He's the first car waiting for a spot, half way into the lot. I have to park up the hill today. Oh well.

Luckily, I find a spot right at the top of the hill on Highland. I parallel park like I've never done before: in one shot!

I can see the lines marching in, and the mushy waves coming in as they break from the top of the hill. I KNOW THIS. This is going to be an epic session. I know it. I can feel it.

I run down the hill. My feet never felt better on cement. I see Khang pop out from his ride. He's still waiting for a spot.

"Let's go brah! Hurry up and park!" I yell at him.

"Get em Klaude!" yells Bruce.

I throw a shaka at him.

I run down the hill and off to the sand. Calm yourself KK. Calmo. I paddle out. I know the waves when they do this. This is going to be an epic sesh.

First wave, I take off after Don takes the first wave of the set. I bottom turn, snap off the top, bottom turn again, and hook it off the top again.

Whoa, a TWO TURN wave?? On my first wave? What the fuck is going on.

I see Matt further down, and I paddle towards him to burn off some excess energy from the adrenaline pumping through my veins. Matt, Bri and I embrace. I told them of my first ride was a two turn right.

"What, no way. Where?"

"Over there, man. Right where Don is."

The waves would pitch up but would be very mushy once they broke. It was just perfect. The tide was high, but the swell was pushing through it. It was high tide fun - one of those days we dream about in every South Bay swell.

Matt catches a wave. He gets a few hacks off and comes back to the line up.

Bri is freezing her ass off. It's been a whole week since she has been surfing, and since the water has dropped in temperature, she is unable to tolerate it. She gets a lot of rides even in her frozen state, and keeps coming back for more. These conditions would have been a lot better if she had a proper wetsuit on.

Khang comes out to the line up, and we embrace. He is chatting up with all of us. It's been three weeks since he has gotten to surf. He's been busy with work.

"Oh yea, I'm moving to New York on Tuesday," he says to Bri.

"What?"

"Oh Klaude! I'm moving to New York on Tuesday. Not this Tuesday, but next Tuesday. I'll have a good-bye party on Sunday, the 30th. Come through!"

Wow, what a surprise. First time of hearing this news...

His absence from the water shows... He's catching waves, yet getting stuck behind the sections. Hey, he's still catching waves though. It's great to see him in the water especially since we have such conflicting schedules all the time. We all trade off waves between the four of us. Matt takes one, Khang takes one, Bri takes one, I take one... It's like a broken record we never want to fix. Santa Mierda!!

I see Bri paddling for a wave. I go for it too. I pop up, and I see her pop up as I look back. Well, guess I beat her to the punch. I start to pump down the line. I see a section, and cutback. I don't see Bri in my turn, so I keep going. I cut back again. Pump pump pump. I cut back again. Pump, bottom turn, top turn. I pump one last time, bottom turn, and see the wall of water turn into sand. OH SHIT! EJECT!! EJECT!! I hop off my board and land in waist deep water. Four turns... holy shit.

An Unridden A-Frame

I apologize to Bri. Well, not really. I tell her sorry, with a big smile. She tells me that the wave looked really good... until I snaked her. HA! I told her that I got four turns on it, and that I'm glad I snaked her. I couldn't let that wave pass me by. 

Much of the morning turned out to be like this: Matt gets a wave, Khang gets a wave, Bri gets a wave, then I get a wave. It was not all in this order, but tons of waves were being shared by everyone. Everybody was SHARING. That's what I love about this place. There is no bad blood, no ego's. Just people enjoying the wave riding experience.

I remember paddling for a wave and it was a perfect A-frame. I see Matt on the inside, paddling out. As I pop up, I had enough time to think, "Should I go left? Or should I go right? I've been going right a lot.... I'll go left this time." And then I swoop into a backside beauty. I get a few carves off, and end up on the inside. How the hell is it this good today? 

Khang had to leave to conduct interviews at Quik.

Bri had to exit after a while because of her leaky wetsuit. 

Matt got a four turn right.

Matt and I battle it out in front of the Mons Pubis. "Next one, we'll go in," he says. We both smile.

He gets one, I get one. And these waves are no one shot waves. Two turns, minimum.

We both paddle back out. It's never "One more." But there will always be, "Next one."

I get a right where I take off super late. I can't see anything, but I have my eyes open. I pump around the white water section and get two turns off. One after the white water, and one as a finisher. I paddle back out.

As I paddle back out, I see Matt on a left. He lays back into the snap, and goes all the way into the inside. He paddles back out.

We trade off a few more waves. Matt catches a long left. He exits from the water from getting a great wave. His body language says it all - "I'm done."

I wait for a set. The sets are far in between, but they come. Sure enough, I get a right. I pump down, get a small carve off the top, and then bottom turn and carve again. Roy is in the inside, hooting me on my last ride. My body slumps into a state of hebetude.

We are all exhausted. Everyone got rides today. It was just nuts. And barely anybody was out! Surfline apparently forecasted a shitty day. Hey, good job Surfline! That's why I never check you out for surf forecasts. It was an epic day of surf in the South Bay, and I got to share it with just my friends. And all the locals that I see every day... We were all rewarded for surfing one spot in a dedicated fashion. We were rewarded for our commitment! Two hours plus with my friends, and we are tired from catching so many waves. Rarely does it get THIS GOOD.

And the sets keep marching in...!!

We stop by at Mandy's for some late breakfast. We gorge on food. Because I had lost my wallet, Bri took care of the bill. We all talked about Japan, language barriers, our surf for today, and how it was perfect to send off Matt on his journey to Japan.

He is insecure about the trip, but I reassure him that he will be golden.

"Just be yourself, you have a lot Japanese mannerisms that they value." I tell him.

We learn "I-TA-DA-KI-MA-SU" and "GO-CHI-SOU-SA-MA-DE-SHI-TA" literally, "I will commence eating," and "thank you for the great meal." Simple and polite, yet essential to Japanese culture. I give Matt and Bri a kiss good-bye, and head back to my quiet home, stoked from head to toe. DRC had a good showing for today. Sweet!!

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!

The Right Board 111614

Surf Report: 2-3 feet with the occasional 4
Water: Cooler
Winds: Offshore (Santa Ana's!! Weee~)
Atmosphere: Sunny

Playing with my memory bank here... should have written this post a while ago. Anyways, I remember meeting up with Matt this surf sesh. He said he would be with the WHC near Rosecrans, so I was kinda bummed I wouldn't see him.

As I paddled out from 30th Street Tower, I see Gary aka Balls Deep Castro shredding a left. He takes it all the way in, and waves back to the line up.

I see Matt, and we say hi to each other.

He's on his JS today. Every board is out of commission.

"I can't believe I used to surf this thing," he motions at his board. "It's so long but skinny. It doesn't make any sense for today."

I can tell he's having difficulty with the higher tide mushing out the wave. I trade boards with him.

He catches a few waves, even getting a snap or two. He switches back for me.

Overall, I had a lot of fun surfing with Matt this day. My board was working great, which is the least I can say about Matt's JS.

Another reason we have multiple boards for different situations!

This day, we played our arch rivals, the Venice Lakers. They've beaten all but one time, but they are fearful of us. We had a great start, a mediocre end to the second half, and a so-so 2nd half. They wanted the rebound more than us, and they got the Win. Well, FAIL HARDER kids. FAIL. HARDER. 

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!

Open Your Eyes, KK 111514

Surf Report: 4-5 feet, Occ. 8 footers
Water: Cool
Winds: Offshore
Atmosphere: Sunny

Big, thumpy day, and of course, it's dumping. I would have suspected the weekend crowd to be thinned out today, but the line up is completely empty. Maybe a lot of people went north or south. Just not here. Here, it's closing out, it's gnarly, and it's unforgiving.

The locals are all watching it. Jose, Big Jon, Robert... They're all watching the line up. The horizon is tinged with the LA smog, while the lines from the sets march in to the shore. There is barely anyone out. I watch as the other guys ohhh and ahhh at the white wash explodes on the shore, sending up a catastrophic tower up into the air.

Well, it doesn't look that bad. Apparently, the sets were bigger earlier in the morning. The swell is diminishing quickly... maybe too quickly. I turn around and head for my car.

"You heading out, Klaude?" asks Jose.

"Yep! Can't catch barrels from the parking lot," I say.

"Show us how it's done!" Robert says. 

I paddle out, and discover my paddling muscles are a little weak. I'm not happy with that. I puff my cheeks and paddle harder, much like I did in Mexico. The paddle out wasn't so bad, and neither is the drift. I get to the outside, and start paddling towards my spot. It's pretty quiet in the line up... the lulls are long, and the atmosphere is tranquil.

First wave I grab is a right, and I pull in to the close out. I close my eyes out of fear, and hear the sounds around me... The water churning, the hollowness of the wave... and I eat it. I get sent down and tumble. It wasn't so bad. I was mad though. Mad at myself for closing my eyes. Mad at still being fearful of opening my eyes.

I tell myself, keep your eyes open KK.

Second wave I catch, I keep my eyes open. I see the crystal ceiling chandeleiring over me. The wave closes out, of course, but I keep my line and stay crouched with my eyes wide open. I can still see the sunlight piercing through the glassy room as I feel my board being taken out from under my feet. I tumble and fall into the abyss.

The sets are about 2 feet overhead when I started, but they are diminishing quickly. I have never seen wave heights diminish so quickly at Manhattan Beach. Maybe it's the tide? The swell angle? The swell period? Whatever it is, it's making the conditions less challenging, and more people start to come out.

None of my friends are out today... not even the locals. There are no more peanut gallery locals with their binoculars at the parking lot.

I go for a few more waves, but they are all closing out. I'm getting tired of getting close outs. I start talking to a guy named Ryan. He is charging hard, and I befriend him in hopes of charging hard too. We trade close outs for the next half hour.

My last wave is a right. It's about five feet on the face, and I start pumping from the lifeguard tower. I pump and pump and pump, racing each section. The face starts to get choppy and marshmallows start to spot the wave face. The marshmallows turn into marbled vanilla, and the face is no longer blue but brown. I keep pumping, trying to beat the sections. Finally, the wave closes out, and I look back to where I am. I'm in front of the dark yellow house.

I think to myself... I could paddle back out... But then again, am I getting a long ride like that? Probably not. It's best if I just cash my chips out right meow and head home.

The sets are now a generous six feet... A full two feet smaller than when I started. I only surfed an hour and a half, but I am happy to get one long ride. No turns, but I kept my eyes open in the barrel. Slowly improving...

As Patricio would tell me, "JUST GO!!"

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!

Veterans Day Anger 111114

Surf Report: 2-3 feet
Atmosphere: Cloudy
Water: Cool
Winds: Minimal

I've been dealing with parental stress from the kids I coach. I didn't want to get involved with their bickering, but they wanted me to, so I dealt with it the way I knew how: talking it out and bringing it out into the open. We had a parent meeting, with me leading it. The parents talked over what has been going on between the volunteering of Parent Representatives, and how they needed to switch out the Parent Reps, since the same Parent Reps have been volunteering for over two years now. Two parents volunteered. I brought up one of our kids showing up to practice late because he has joined a club team, and how I wouldn't feel it is fair to have him play starters' minutes, regardless of skill level. The parents didn't say anything, except that maybe he can come late to every other practice instead of missing every practice. However, the parent of said child wasn't present to hear this, so it was up to me to communicate it. Furthermore, I explained how the social aspect of the team is vital - playing basketball on the court is only a minute portion of the team spending time together. The post-game tag that they all play, the team dinners, the ice cream get together, the possible Disneyland trip, are all part of what makes our team so special. We reiterated how much time off the court is important as on the court. We also discussed how there should be monthly meetings like this to discuss what's been going on at meetings and to essentially clear the air. A ho'oponopono, as the Hawaiians called it.

I put what we discussed into a pdf, and sent it out to the team. I ruffled some feathers, naturally, and had been getting e-mails after e-mails after e-mails.

Some are in support of me. Others are firing back at other parents. And others respond late in saying, "You shouldn't put that in the e-mail, even though we talked about it at the meeting."

My boy B-sauce is also in town for his cousin's wedding. Since he is on vacation, I am on "vacation" too. Whenever I am in Hawaii, he takes time to hang out with me and parties it up. So, when he is in town, I do the same. I've been staying up late with him, getting tacos, playing dominoes, ping pong, or whatever.

In essence, the highs and lows continue.

I stayed up till 200 AM last night, thinking about what all the parents were saying in their e-mails. I just wanted to coach, and then had to get involved with the parents, and now, the parents are all rambling on about what needs to get done. I need to surf, but shit, it's Veterans Day, and I have to be on it early or else the crowd will be on it. Plus, I still have to go to work.

When I awake, it was already 700 AM. I do my morning routine, and head out to my local spot. Before I leave, Mel asks how I am, and I vent out what's been going on. She reassures me that I am doing the right thing, and that parents take things too personally. I said what had to be said, what everyone was thinking, and now parents are going into their own passive aggressiveness.

"Just tell them what needs to be said," she said. "You're doing the right thing, KK."

Once I arrive, the parking lot is packed. Of course it is.

I paddle out, with an angry atmosphere about me.

I see Matt and Bri, and smile. However, I quickly turn my smile into a scowl. They ask me how I am doing. I vent out my anger.

In between my venting, I paddle for waves. I get snaked by a blue long boarder who sees  me, but still drops in on me. I fucking shake my head as I paddle back out.

It's not that big today, just too crowded. I take out my anger on the Ocean. I paddle like I'm angry at the Ocean, and the Ocean receives my anger. She lets me splash around and do my venting with my body.

No notable rides today... just blowing off the steam.

By the end of the session, I had enough. The waves helped out a lot. I felt a bit more calm and level headed. I felt like a better person. I felt less angry. I felt like I was ready to take on the days events, however bad they may be.

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!