26th Street Blues - Another Wave Buffet

Surf Report:  1-3 foot crumblers and close outs

Atmosphere:  Gloomy and cold! What a difference a day makes…

Water: Ice cold and blue

Winds: On shore creating some chop

I thought I was going to go to Huntington, but I opted to stay local since the minimal swell was hitting Southern LA better than Huntington Beach.  I woke up a bit late around 610, and started to do my yoga.  I arranged to pick up Christina and Cheryl this morning, and I woke my dad up so he could come out too.  Dais was passed out, Francis has to study all day today for a test Monday, and Ko was knocked the fuck out. 

The sun struggled to pierce through the grey clouds, which seemed to set the tone in the water.  I picked up Christina and Cheryl, and we all headed to 26^th Street.  I saw a new dead bird on the road, which means that there will be some good waves in my superstitions. 

When we got to 26^th Street, no one was out again.  However, it wasn’t where the groms were going to show up like yesterday.  It seemed that the grey clouds kept people away from the surf today.  No worries, we had our little crew to go out to enjoy surf. 

Shan showed up and parked quickly and quietly in an empty parking space.  He got changed and threw some money in the meter and took off ahead of us.  We four took our time as we made our way down the cold, wet concrete steps to the almond brown sand.  Yesterday the sand looked golden, but today it was a bland brown.  Cmon Mr. Sun~ get out from behind those clouds!!

The waves looked mushy but rideable, and there were only about fifteen heads out today.  I saw Rastaman aka Orlando, and Roy who was on his fish.  Uncle Miles came out too.

Shan stretched for a small bit, and hit the water fast.  He was out of our sight in seconds.  I tried to stretch extra well today since my traps started hurting in the morning and I was still sore from yesterday’s two and a half hour magical session.  I paddled out before the two girls hit the water. 

The paddle out was smooth on the first run.  It was easy to get out to the line up, which only required a few duck dives and turtles.  The waves seemed soft today, but the shape wasn’t all that clean because of the on shore winds.  I paddle up next to Rastaman as we exchange pleasantries, and he eggs me on into the first wave.  I swing around, paddle for the left, and take off.  I just glide down the face, keeping weight on my heels.  I try to switch stance, and eat it.  Oh well.

Rastaman compliments me on the ride, and I said the next wave is his.  He really doesn’t have a problem getting waves since he even drops in on people.  Those Brazilians really know what a party wave is.  Hahaha
 

Cheryl was super on point today!  I was pleasantly surprised and stoked to see her get so many waves.  She didn’t look intimidated by the waves today, which I felt was the difference.  She was on her longboard too, and she paddled into so many waves, I lost count at five.  She definitely got a big boost in her confidence, which was apparent in her swagger in the water.  She took off on lefts, rights, and made more waves than I have ever seen her get.

“Is that your frrrriend?” (rolling r’s) Rastaman asked.

“Yea, that’s my friend!” I told him.

“Man, she’s getting a lot of waves.  She’s with you guys huh?  Is she just a friend?” 

“Yea, she’s with us, but she is just a friend.  Why, do you want her number?”

He chuckled.  “Nah man, I’m married!” he said.  He paddles into a left where he snakes his friend, and kicks out.  I guess when he knows the guy, he won’t snake them.

Shan caught a lot of waves today too.  He took off on lefts, going left.  He took off on rights, going left.  I complimented him on a ride, but he only grunted in acknowledgement and kept paddling back out. 

I for one had a field day on my longboard.  It really felt like a buffet style feeding frenzy of waves today, minus the crowd and sun from yesterday.  I kept going for lefts and rights, and I can just hear the water being trimmed up and down from my rails.  It felt good to be able to pump slowly on my longboard.  I was able to take off on some high tide mush burgers and get out on the face.  I didn’t have to really paddle for a lot of the waves as I took off and trimmed down the line, only to have the wave reform on the inside and bring me to the shore pound.  I felt really in tune with the Ocean today, but the blue grey energy of the Ocean made me weary.  I think it made us all feel a heavy mood on our shoulders. 

One thing that I learned today:  “Don’t be such a Negative Nancy.”  - Christina.  She told me that as we unloaded our stuff.  I think she got the feeling I was a bit pessimistic and not feeling all stoked about the day.  I got upset over nothing and she quickly snapped at me with that line, and I was set back on the ground.  Hell, there are people right now unable to surf (hint hint: Matt) and I should be thankful I got to surf today.  So I tried to enjoy every moment I had in the water with my friends. 

Christina always seems to be stoked when surfing.  She’s like a grom, always frothing when she hits the water.  We both got worked on the inside shore pound trying to get out, but she still persisted and made it out.  Every other minute or so, I could hear her go “Whoo~” as she took off on a wave, or when Cheryl or Shan took off on a wave. 

Around 830, the line up just emptied out.  there were about three people on the south peak, and three people on the north peak.  Miles, Roy, Roy’s friend, and I stayed on the south side.  Roy was tearing it up on his fish so much that he inspired me to go get my shortboard out.  I rushed back to my car to switch boards. 

I didn’t tie a leash to my fish; actually I didn’t even bring the leash today.  It felt strangely liberating to surf leashless.  I just couldn’t fall off or let go of the board.  The fish proved to be a winner today, and I was catching some waves in no time.  The waves had a little bit of chop on it, but remained glassy for the most part, and opened up on the inside many times.

I will have to give rides of the day to Roy and Cheryl.  Roy was absolutely tearing it up on his fish.  His performance was awe-inspiring and graceful.  He pumped up and down the wave and cut back both ways, spraying the glassy face with white water, only to pump passed it and do another hack.  Cheryl just seemed like the surfer having the most fun today, and she caught a lot of waves today going both ways.  I think it is a well-deserved ride of the day honor for both of them. 

The clouds remained heavy as we headed back to the car.  The sun never shown through the gray veil, but the waves were smooth and casual, and I felt we all had fun.  This whole weekend felt like a dream weekend:  lots of waves, surfing with my friends, and just seeing us all smile in the line up made my whole weekend.  I guess the only thing missing would have been Matt and Nicky, but they had their obligations, and there will be waves for them once they handle their business. 

I finally got to see all the pictures from yesterday and today.  Holy crap, I am such a noob still.  I’m still taking off straight on the wave instead of at an angle, my bottom turns aren’t powerful, and my top turns are all front footed and weak.  Hopefully I can make my adjustments by this weekend. 

Mahalo Mother Ocean.  You always seem to give and give and give to us.  I feel that we just take and take and take.  I hope I am giving back something to you every time I surf.