County Line - Freezing and Beautiful

Surf Report:  2-4 feet with the occasional 5 footer

Atmosphere: Deceivingly clear with blue skies

Winds:  Off shore to slight on shore

Water:  ICE COLD!!

I woke up this morning, April 9, 2011, still tired from last night.  I could not sleep for a minute because I was so excited about surfing today.  My mind was running faster than any section of the wave and I could see myself just surfing all these right hand point breaks as if shot in 9 mm film.  I started to do some stretching and getting ready for the day. I gave Matt and Dais a call to see where they were:  Matt was already on my street, but on the other side of Stoner park.  Dais had just woken up, and said he would be at my house soon. 

I greeted Matt and put his stuff in the bang bus.  We went up stairs to stay warm as I got water jugs ready and Matt raided my fridge and freezer.  Well, he just took a look inside to see what was in there.  Dais soon arrived, and we packed up four surfboards and all our gear into the van, and started to make our way up north.

As my car rpm’d around 2000, we slowly moved down the PCH on a beautifully crystal clear morning.  We jammed to some tunes as we talked about how we all couldn’t sleep the night before, and we were oh-so-anxious to surf some good waves.  I volunteered to drive today since Matt has been generous on the last handful of surf trips down south that he should be able to relax and enjoy the ride as we made the trek up north. 

Our first stop was at Sunset.  Actually we just passed by Sunset.  The waves looked around 2-4 feet, but seemed to never break.  We judged it as a longboard spot today. 

We passed by Topanga Canyon, and saw that there were some shortboarders out there.  What a surprise.  That spot is usually a longboard haven.  We shrugged it off like last night’s left over French fries. 

Second stop was at Malibu.  We parked and ran across the PCH to see how the waves were.  There were plenty of heads out, all on longboards, with some clean waves coming in.  The only problem was that the waves were 1-2 feet ankle slappers.  Not really what we were looking for…

“We can go further up north and check out County Line,” Dais said.  So further up north we went.

I wanted to check out Zuma, so we turned into Zuma state beach, and saw that there were a lot of surfers out.  There were some quick rides coming out, with the surfers doing two turns max on the face.  We probably could only get a bottom turn (if anything) on those waves.  They were super fast and punchy.  Then, a contest horn went off.  I think there was a body boarding contest going on, but that meant we couldn’t surf the main peak.  To the north we go!

We drive further north, alerting Francis that we would go to County Line and check it out there and make a decision.  County Line is a secluded area, with the PCH as the connecting point.  Out of the mountains and drain pipes and million dollar mansions, this spot holds its own name as the melting pot of hippy parents, surfing families, and groms coming in from the valley to have fun for the weekend.  Neptune’s Net is right across the street, making for a great place to eat seafood when you have a growling stomach. 

We park right next to an RV trailer, and hop out of the van.  The beach is right on the cliff and so we had a great view of the peaks.  The wave on the right looked like a rippable A frame.  The peak right in front of us looked fun and crumbly.  The peak down to the beach area looked cool too.  I felt that we would be able to score here.  The waves didn’t look too big from here, so I thought we were going to have a fun session.  The boys agreed, and so we hit up Francis telling him we will be here. 

We all got changed into our wetsuits and putting our sun block on.  Dais decided to take his Maria out (the fish), while Matt and I took out our thrusters.  It was definitely a “big board day” here.  The waves were mushy, clean, and long.  Actually, the point up north was super hollow, but I will elaborate more on that later. 

There were definitely a bunch of locals just hanging out in the parking lot/dirt area.  They were sipping on their coffee as they watched wave after wave come in, and then the waves shut down.  They chit chatted until another set came in as they watched in reverent silence as Mother Ocean did her thing, and surfers rode her beautiful clear blue face. 

The water looked so nice and clear, I was surprised that it got this clean just an hour out of Los Angeles.  There were kelp beds everywhere in the water, and these kelp beds actually reduce the chop on the waves. 

We walked down carefully on the beaten path down to the rock shore, and stretched there, utilizing as much area as possible.  Matt was the first to hit the water as he said a prayer before paddling out, and Dais and I followed suit.  Dais actually went pretty far south before paddling out.  He avoided a lot of the rocks on the paddle out, which was smart on his part.

The water was FREEZING.  I thought it wasn’t that bad until I duck dived my first wave, and I got an instant ice cream head ache.  I haven’t had one all winter, so I guess this was my baptism once more.  I felt my fingers and toes become numb instantly as I struggled to paddle out and keep my fingers from tightening up.  As I made it to the line up, I saw Matt catch his second wave already.  He ripped a bottom turn on a crumbly right as he made the drop back side, but the wave section ran out on him, so he bailed out. 

I actually thought that was his first ride, but he said that was number two.  So he had drawn first blood and put us both in comboland.  The water was crystal clear with the kelp beds swaying back and forth like a dance.  The sun was shining, the winds were off shore, but our fingers were falling off of our ligaments.  I scratched out on a few waves because people were already on them, and I didn’t want to be “that guy” who came to a surf spot for the first time and dropped in on the locals.  Give respect, and get respect, I always tell myself.  So I watch the people get some rides, where they were taking off, and which guys usually got the waves.  I deduced that if I sat in front of the valley where the trees were and the rock cliff started, I could get a clean ride.  So I waited here. 

I see a right form up, and I paddle for it.  Then this guy on his yellow board just takes off right in front of me.  Maybe he didn’t see me?  Maybe he was just a dick.  I’m not sure, but I was stuck in his wake, and had to paddle back out. 

I paddled back to the same place to wait again.  The yellow board guy got a long ride out of that wave, so I figured he would be stoked enough to let me get the next wave.  Boy was I wrong.  Another set approached, and I went for it.  Again, this guy drops in on me!  At this point, I realize I’m not fast enough to catch up to him because I’m not taking off at an angle so he beats me down the line as he trims and pumps with his longboard. 

I paddle back once more, and I know that the next wave, he will know I am right behind him and that he’s cutting me off.  As I waited during the lulls, Matt and Dais were further south, right in front of the spot the RV is parked.  I drifted northwards towards the kelp beds, since I figured that was my best bet of getting a wave.  I paddle around to keep my limbs mobile and joints lubricated in this horribly cold water.  Dais says that he saw me scratch out on a few but he saw that somebody else was already on the waves I scratched out on.  Matt said he got a couple waves but ate shit on a left as he tried to top turn. 

I saw another set come, and I was determined to catch it.  “Paddle at an even steeper angle,” I told myself.  The yellow longboard was again, going for the wave.  I put my head down as I paddled for the wave.  This wave was MINE.  I pop up before he pops up, and I pump down the line.  I didn’t say a word, or hoot him off the wave.  I just pumped down the line, and he saw me or felt me, so he immediately kicked out.  I pumped down the line and the wave sectioned off ahead of me. 

FINALLY, I felt a sigh of relief go over me.  I was able to prove to this yellow longboard guy that I wasn’t just some noob, that I was able to catch some waves, but I’m not going to be a dick about it. 

I actually started talking to this guy.  His name was Ken, from Kamakura, Japan.  We talked about our respective families and what not, how long he’s been here for, and introduced them to da boys.  He seemed a bit more aware that I was in the water from that point on. 

Today’s nemesis was Mother Ocean’s ice-cold water.  At one point, I really wished I had booties and gloves, because my toes were numb and my hands were cramping up.  I actually got a set wave that was bigger than it looked as I paddled for it.  I took off behind the peak as it was breaking, and my hands felt so jagged and rough as I popped up, I felt like the tin can man without any oil.  I almost lost my balance as I made the drop.  Ken watched me as I made the drop and pulled out.  Every person actually backed out on the wave as I bottom turned and made it out of the white water section and onto the wave face.  There was a big wall of light blue water ahead of me with my name on it.  The off shore winds made the wave stand up nicely, and the rippled going up the face looked magical.  My toes were so numb I didn’t even know where they were, but I kept willing my body to get closer to the wave face.  In the end, I put my head down, crouched as low as I could, and ducked my head under the lip.  Unfortunately, I wasn’t looking where I was going, and just completely ate it. 

Ken complimented me on the ride.  I think that was my first compliment I ever got on a set wave that was not wasted by me by falling down as I bottom turned or anything.  Although I should have could have would have done _______________ (insert move here) I was happy to have been able to catch that wave. 

At first, there were only about twenty heads out when we paddled out at 815AM.  After about an hour of surf, there were maybe fifty.  I guess the people from the valley finally made it down here, because the line up got super crowded.  It was almost frustrating with all the bodies in such close vicinity.  I had to change up the location, but there were only so many peaks. 

I remember Matt catching some nice rights, and busting some top turns.  Dais said that he saw a small splash, and mimicked it with his hand, cupping some water and throwing it to the side.  I said that was more like a cup of spray, instead of a bucket.  We all had a good laugh in between lulls, but Matt was clearly suffering from his blessed holey wetsuit.  Il Papa` himself had blessed his suit, so much that the holes made him shiver before St. Peter.  Well, not really.  He just had a lot of holes in his wetsuit, and I think today he learned that he does need a good wetsuit. 

I too need a new wetsuit, since my wetsuit doesn’t quite fit me that well now.  Matt and I went towards the north near the kelp bed to get away from the crowds.  But it was crowded here too.  It was super crowded, but it looked like our best bet since every other peak was dominated by longboarders.  At this point, we lose track of Dais.  The north kelp beds was definitely reserved for high performance short boarders.  The kelp bed made it difficult to paddle into, but the cleanest waves came through.  On one wave that I got, I pop up, and my left leg cramps up.  First it was my calf.  I tried to calm down and stretch it out, but then the muscle on my shin started to cramp up.  I was telling myself to now get out of the way of people and try to get to the channel.  I paddled as fast as I could, but man my left leg was killing me.  After that, I just had to get out and stretch.  It was too much.  I paddled in, trying to stretch out my left calf.  Once I was able to stand on the sand and rocks, I stretched out the cramp and started to walk in. 

I wanted to refuel and get out again.  The waves were too clean to pass up, even for the cold water.  I slowly made my way back up the rocks when I heard, “KLAUDE!” 

A guy with two arms spread open, as if about to fly off to a far land, was calling my name.  It was Francis!  He made it to County Line. 

I walk up the donkey trail and catch up with him.  We walk back to my car and I see Matt’s shivering body come towards us.  We all chit chat and ask where Dais was, but he was nowhere to be seen.  Francis said he would paddle out, and I told him I would be with him.  Matt’s lips trembled from the cold as he flashed a smile and told us he couldn’t go back out again.  I didn’t blame him or push him, since it was freezing and he had a holey wetsuit. 

Francis got changed and he and I walk down the trail.  This guy was like a mountain goat going down the trail.  He just hopped and skipped down the rocks as I cautiously walked down and watched my step.  He looked back, as if to say, “Man, you’re still up there?  God you’re slow.”  Sorry, I’m not a local braddah like you.  Haha  he must be used to going down these trails in Hawaii. 

He gets ready to paddle out, and I tell him, “Don’t forget to stretch!”  He stretches for five seconds and paddles out.  I paddle out, and again the water freezes my hands and feet.  At this point, I think my hands were like icicles.  I usually keep a “karate chop” hand while I paddle, but at this point my pinky finger was separated from my hand.  No worries, just keep paddling out!

Francis was quick to get to work.  He caught about three waves going right in the first forty five minutes.  He wasn’t too stoked with the conditions, but he looked happy to surf.  He even snaked me on a wave that I went for.  He said he didn’t see me, but I sure saw him, pumping down the line.  It almost reminded me of Diamondhead as he pumped down the line for a quick top turn and re-entry.  He would be gone for ten minutes at a time. 

The sun shined brightly through the morning, but didn’t help our cold bodies warm up at all.  There was this big bald dude that took every single wave, and he looked like an angry aggro biker gang guy, so no one dropped in on him.  He was actually pretty good too, doing cut backs and throwing out spray. 

We heard a loud WOOOOOO and saw the north side peel a nice barrel, and a guy get completely shacked in it.  He kicks out and paddles out into the kelp bed.  Damn he looked really cool. 

Francis said that he was going to catch one in, so I decided the same too.  Francis caught this nice outside set and took it really far, but paddled out again.  I attempted to catch some waves, but by this time, my fingers were all spread apart and I couldn’t even make my hand into a fist.  My hands were just frozen by now.  I got kelped on two waves that I went for.  One of them, my arms got tangled up and I couldn’t make it to the peak of the feathering wave.  And on another one, I paddled for the wave but the kelp caught my fins and I lost all my momentum. 

We got in, and got changed.  Dais was already out by the van, changed and looking stoked.  He said he drifted down a little south where the beach part of County Line was.  We all shared stories of what happened and took in the vibes of the new spot we just surfed. 

Continued on to part two…