Surf Report: FLAT
Water: December-like coldness
Winds: On shore
Atmosphere: Gloomy
What a horrible day for surfing, and how fitting it was for all of the da boys to be out! The day started off early, with me calling people a little past 0600. Ko showed up to my house, and I had forced my dad to come out in an effort to get him out of the house and get some fresh air. The photography was an added bonus. I stopped by Nicky’s house, but there was no answer. Well, you snooze you lose! Dais was rolling with Khang and DK, and Mikey was on his way on his own. Christina was to show up later. When we showed up to 26th Street, the waves looked dismally FLAT. I was disappointed nonetheless.
Mikey shows up to the parking lot in his 5:3 wetsuit, carrying his surfboard, so that was the trigger to get changed and surf. We all shot the shit as we got changed, and threw in some quarters to the meter.
I took out the foamie and my short board for shits and giggles. Dais took out his usual thruster Desire`, Khang was on Maria, Ko was on the quick fish quad, DK was on the NSP, and Mikey was on his 7 footer. We all walked south of the 26th Street tower.
There weren’t too many surfers out today for good reason: there was NO SURF! Ok, let’s be fair, there was surf, but it was nothing significant. I think today was just a day to be with all da boys and special guest appearances.
Mikey is a friend of most of us from Venice High days. He was in Redlands for a while and moved out of LA, but since he was laid off from his company, he’s been back in LA and surfing lots. It was good to catch up and eating shit with him in the line up.
The waves were close outs at best. The foamie proved to be a formidable weapon for today’s waves, but I switched to the shortboard after half the session was done. I wanted to be able to hold a rail in the wave without cranking my whole body awkwardly and falling.
Khang and Dais caught their fair share, but the biggest surprise was probably Kotaro, getting some waves on the quick fish quad. He later switched to Maria and had a harder time catching waves, but da boys were still hooting him into waves.
DK was catching some waves with his NSP, but again, there were no waves anyways, so it wasn’t such an epic session as we would have preferred.
Christina showed up half way through the session on her foamie too, and we both paddled out to the line up, her on her foamie, and me on my shortboard, leash less.
The tide was low, and I usually like to go leash less when it is low tide because I hate the drag as the board tugs greedily on my ankle as another wipe out throws me over the falls. The only set back was that I have to swim to my board when I wipe out, but today was a non-consequential day, so I didn’t mind the swimming. If anything, I could use it.
Not too many memorable waves today really, it was more of the social gathering that was important in my mind. I was glad that da boys came out to surf in high spirits and great number. Albeit the waves were lackluster, the vibe was chill and fun. We all got out after an hour and a half of “surfing.”
There was supposed to be swell Sunday AFTERNOON, so I figured, it won’t be so big tomorrow, I’d go out late… boy, was I wrong.
Even with negative surf, it's nice that the love for the ocean can still bring people together. At least you guys paddled out. Can't wait to join you guys again.
ReplyDeleteyes, <3 for the ocean.
ReplyDelete