40 Minutes for a Sunset 071211

Surf Report: 1-2 feet mumbled and jumbled up surf

Winds: On shore

Water: Cool

Atmosphere: Sunny with some patchy clouds

I had dinner plans with a friend of mine tonite.  She told me 7 o’clock last week.  I called her to reconfirm, and she said, “7? Man I must have been out of it, can we do 730 or 800?”  Fine, but if it’s 800, I’m gonna be late. 

Off to the beach I went.

Today’s crew was Dais, Khang, Matt, and myself.  It was the dedicated core of the DRC.  Aloha Welcome Home Matt!  We all greeted him with hugs and penis touches.  We got changed into our wetsuits since the air temperature was a bit chilly, but it seemed like the water was pretty warm. 

The shore pound was gnarly today, and Dais reminded me not to turn my back to the Ocean.  I concurred.  The outside sets looked ok from the parking lot, but so many people were on it like a crowded elevator during the lunch time rush hour that one had no where to go. 

First wave was caught by Khang.  He took a nice little left that opened up for him in the midst of all the chaotic churning of the Ocean.  We all hooted him as he took the wave.

Second wave was a split peak by Matt and Khang.  Matt went left, while Khang went right.  They both took it all the way to the shore pound. 

I for one did not catch a single fucking wave today.  But! I felt better getting my feet wet in the Ocean, and hanging with da boys.  I only put forty minutes in the meter, so I wasn’t all stoked to be surfing JUST for forty minutes.  If I’m gonna surf, I want to be in the water for at least two hours.  Again, this day was just to get my feet wet and hang with da boys for a few laughs. 

Matt caught this small left that he took pretty far.  After that, I decided to head in because Khang told me the time was 740. 

I sat on my car and watched the sun set…  My dinner was at 800, and I totally could have made it, but I had to watch this sun set all the way…

First glance

and the clouds move...

Hiding behind the mountains

Aloha good bye Mr. Sun

Mahalos Mother Ocean.