Sunset Point with the Wave Munster 080611

Surf Report:  1-3 feet

Atmosphere: Gloomy, then sunny towards the end

Water: Cold

Winds: slight off shore then to on shore.

Dais met up with me at my house on Saturday morning.  We were to set out to Malizoo and check out the waves.  We passed by Sunset and saw a few sets come through, and the place was FIRING.  The parking on the street was full, so we would have to park in the lot…

We got up to Malibu, and saw the waves.  They looked dismal.  Maybe we should have waited for the sets?  We waited and waited, but the sets never came.  So, we turned back to go to Sunset.

Dais texted Cheryl and Christina to let them know we were at Sunset instead.  We made our $7 donation to the parking lot and parked under the light where all the bird poop was. 

The guys at the point were all on longboards.  There were scattered people by the rocks where one can walk down, and then there was the usual crowd of people in front of Dos Banos.  I told Dais I would be surfing in front of the rocks where we walk down. 

We stretch at the parking lot so we could just paddle out once we got down to the rocks.  The tide was high (even though it was a low tide around 0838) and already hitting the rocks, erasing any trace of a sand bar.  We both paddled straight out into the freezing waters of Sunset…

I didn’t have many memorable rides today, at least to me.  I was able to pump down the line on two waves and made people back out of the wave.  Thank you for doing that, other surfers. 

Dais went off to Dos Banos where he caught some insiders, counting up about four memorable rides, and about seven close outs.  I was stoked for him, since he caught a lot of waves.

Cheryl and Christina showed up after the “low tide” hit.  Cheryl and Christina were talking and what not, when Cheryl just swung around for a wave.  Christina hooted her into a long right hander that peeled all the way to the inside. 

Christina and I went for a set wave, but I saw out of the corner of my eye as I swung around to paddle for it the monk-looking dark Asian dude on his blue board paddling for it.  This guy tears Sunset up.  He is a local for sure.  I've seen him here every time I've come here.  So, I kept him in the back of my mind until I garnished some speed and heard his board cutting through the chop.  I pulled the emergency brake by putting my legs back into the water and pulling my surfboard back up towards me as I see his blue board shoot across my plane of vision.  Christina wasn’t so lucky.  She went straight over the surfboard as she kept paddling for the wave, and crashed into the guy. 

Both of them were not hurt.  But that is what Sunset is all about:  dropping in, and apologizing.

There was a group of about five people just learning to surf.  This one guy was giving them pointers and tips on how to sit, where to sit, how to do the “egg beater” to turn the surf board, how to paddle, on and on and on.  I was wondering, how could this be a good spot to learn?  Yes, the waves are good, but it’s probably one of the worst places to learn to surf.  The girl of the group heard that the instructor surfed around Bay Street and she asked if that was a beach break.  He replied that it was, and that there was a lot of white wash. 

“Oh, I should be learning there then,” she replied.  Well, at least someone is using their head.  Sunset, to me, isn’t a beginner’s spot.  It may be “beginner friendly” because of the wave, but the crowds and the rocks will intimidate anyone who is starting to surf. 

The longboarders had a field day it looked like.  I know Cheryl was having a crazy day of surfing.  She got a high wave count.  She definitely got the highest wave count out of all of us.  We shall call her the Wave Munster because “monster” just sounds too vicious. 

We stayed in the water for a good three hours, but the high tide was killing the spot.  Anything above 3 foot in the tide refracts on the rocks and makes the waves really mushy and unrideable. 

There was a short boarder riding from the point.  He was pumping up and down the line super fast.  We were all watching, including the people from the peanut gallery.  We then see a red foamie just put his head down and paddle for the wave.  He catches the wave but couldn’t pop up.  The short boarder straightens out as the foamie is going straight into the rocks, not down the line.  The foamie tries to get to his feet in a tripod dog stance, but then completely eats it. 

We all give out a collective “OH!” as he ate it.  I clapped and laughed, and the peanut gallery was laughing too.  Usually when you fuck up, you THINK everyone saw it, and that everyone is laughing at you behind your back.  This was a rare moment in which everyone DID see your screw up, and was laughing at you. 

It got sunny!

I took a “last wave” but the wave was so nice that I had to get one more.  Greed played a role in this decision.  I tried really hard to catch two waves, but both were ended by the red foamie who made his way down the peak where I was sitting.  I deserved that much for being greedy.  I screamed on the second wave under water as to muffle my cursing directed towards him, and paddled peacefully passed him.  I wanted to tell him to look both ways and to watch out where he’s going, but I felt like it was child abuse.  He’s still learning, and we’ve all been at his level.  I didn’t want to shun another surfer’s stoke. 

I did my paddle of shame because I felt I was being too greedy after my “last wave” three waves ago.  The water was completely covering the rocks so I had to be cautious on my way out.  This walk out wasn’t so bad actually, compared to Trestles or Malibu, or any other place I’ve been with reef. 

SPLAAAAAAAASH

Dais was waiting for me at the top, and told me he just got out too.  We got changed and carved up the concrete wave on our skateboards. 

Wave Munster aka Cherelita

Cheryl made her way out with all smiles, glowing from her stoke.  She caught a lot of waves that day, and so she deserves the title of DRC’s Stand Out of the Day.  

Christina said that she caught a lot of waves today.  Sorry I didn't get to see them!! Remember, patience young grass hopper... you CAN go for the small ones, but you waste your energy that way!  Anyways, she caught a lot of waves on the inside and ran over a guy.  Kudos!!

Mahalos Mother Ocean.