Daylight Savings = One Extra Hour to Surf 031112

Surf Report: 1-3 feet and a bit mushy at times, a bit walled on others

Water: Freezing cold

Weather: Gloomy

Winds: Offshore

Surfing Grandma of the OC pointed out that it’s been well over a month since I’ve written in my blog.  I knew this before she pointed it out, but I just haven’t made the time to let out my creative side lately, but I just finished studying for a good 1.5 hours, so here we go…!

I took an exam on February 20, 2012, and thought I absolutely nailed it.  I was confident that I passed it.  I was getting 100%’s on my practice exams.  I knew every question by heart.  I changed a few answers during the exam, but used up almost the whole 3 hours of allotted test time. 

And I found out on Friday that I failed.

Just kidding

I actually did pass, with a 77%.  I was really stoked about that, since this was the third time taking this god damn section.  I’ve taken all sections, but this one in particular was a thorn on my side since it is tax and regulation, which is supposed to be my strong point.  So, I was jumping for joy, texting my family and friends that I passed another exam.  Two down, two more to go.

So Friday night, I was super amped to go surf.  However, Saturday morning proved to be a big disappointment.  Much like the dog owner who doesn’t throw the ball but just fakes throwing it.  Or a girl who fakes an orgasm.  I told myself it’s better to stay out of the freezing water when you’re still stuffed up in the nose, and so I skated down the Strand, and went grocery shopping.  Then I went to work for about 5 hours. 

I had a blind date (my second one in two weeks) which was pretty fun.  I had two cups of coffee (which is a big rule breaker in my life style – no caffeine, especially after 2:00 PM) but my date made it sound so good, I had to try.  Damn girls with their convincing nature…

Surprisingly, I was sleepy at about 1100 PM.  I took that as a queue and headed straight to bed, lulling myself to sleep with thoughts of endless blackness. 

I woke up at 400 AM.  No alarm, no nothing.  It was pitch black, but I just woke up.  I felt like I didn’t have enough blankets, but it wasn’t cold or anything.  I tried to close my eyes and sleep, but to no avail.  I pretty much tossed and turned for an hour before getting out of bed to start my yoga stretches. 

Actual Time: 443 AM

It was so crazy that I was up so early, especially on Daylight Savings.  That meant that it was actually still 400 AM as I started my yoga stretches.  I stretched extra long to compensate for the lack of sleep, and was out the door by 540.

I drove down to 26^th Street to an empty lot.  There were actually waves there, but man… no shape, and no size really.  Better than yesterday, I thought to myself. 

I played some games on my phone, waiting for the dark to clear up. 

I called Fransauce to wake him up.  He was sheepishly answering the phone, mumbling over my surf report.  He said that he would leave his house and meet me there. 

Roy came by, surprised that I had beaten him to the lot.  He told me that he was going to check out Porto since the size there might be a little bigger, and I told him to text me if he ends up paddling out there. 

I tell Fransauce that I would be going to Porto, since Roy texted me saying the size was a little bigger.  So we three reconvened at Porto.

There was definitely more size than 26^th Street, but the inside bowl looked wishy washy and tricky.  I suited up in my new Quiksilver wetsuit and headed down, taking my first piss in it as I walked across the sand.  One bad sign that I noticed immediately as I took my piss was that my piss was leaking out of my leg.  My older suits never did this until they got worn out.  I say this is a bad sign because when water can come out, water can also come in. 

I was correct.

Fransauce and I stretch in front of the restaurant and start to walk out.  The cold water started flushing in through my left leg.  Oh man… how freezing it was this morning!!

The whole morning was spent just trying to keep my body warm.  I thought the coldest days of winter were over, but a 3/2 was a big step down from a 4/3.  I definitely miss my old 4/3.  But, the positive about the chest zip was that my shoulder’s maneuverability didn’t feel constricted at all. 

Roy was catching some long rides going left and right.  Fransauce was catching a lot of waves, sometimes getting stuck behind sections because the single fin doesn’t really allow him to pump and generate speed like a thruster does. 

I made some close outs, but I had this one left that I completely ate it on.  As I popped up, the wave just started to get walled up.  My board seemed to get away from my body from the initial pitch, but I still tried to stand.  I ended up penetrating through the bottom, which was the safest route.  However, the tide was so low that my left leg was touching the sand bar as I penetrated.  Then, the ensuing lip crashed on me.  Basically, I was standing on the sand bar when I wiped out, then taking the wave on my head and shoulders, compressing my whole body under the wave.  I felt like I was doing some weight lifting in the gym.  It was definitely a new way to wipe out for me. 

There weren’t any familiar faces in the water, which was expected.  Porto is such a big open space with myriads parking spaces, you’ll be lucky to see the same person in a week.  But, like all surf spots, put in your time, and you’ll get to know the consistent, real surfers. 

I got out to fill up the meter, and filled up Roy’s meter too.  Fransauce lucked out on a parking space in the residential area, so no worries for him. 

My legs were cramping up left and right in the line up.  But, for the first time, I didn’t have to get out and stretch.  The cramps kind of just went away after a few breathes and rub downs. 

I switched to my twin fin fish because the waves were getting super mushy.  Still, I only caught close outs, but I was able to pump on the flat sections with my twin fin.  Oh, how I’ve missed you!!!  Definitely my favorite board in my whole quiver. 

Boston Sucks!!!!

I had to leave by 900 AM since I had to be at my boss’s house by 1100 to accompany him to the Lakers – Boston game.  Roy later texted me that the surf got really good as I left.  Go figure.  I was starting to see that when I took my paddle of shame in, but hey, I got to see the Lakers beat Boston in a great game. 

So, hopefully I will find more time to write, and get my creative outlet stirring up again.  For without the art of writing, I would just be a robot in a box, laboring away at the task at hand. 

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!!  And a special Mahalos to Surfing Grandma of the OC for (kinda) kicking my ass for not writing in my blog.  I feel much better now.