Cold Turkey 112312 - 26th

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Surf Report: 2-4 feet

Atmosphere: Cloudy and foggy

Water: Cold

Winds: Offshore

The thing that I love most about surfing the day after any major holiday, is the lack of crowds in the water.  Today was no exception.  The crowd that showed up the day before dissipated into thin air.  The line up was once again “locals only.”  Only the dedicated few were out today. 

Calvin was out of course.  So was Roy.  Mr. Oscar was out, and so was Tom on his red longboard.  Tom Yamamoto was also out.  I was surprised to see him too.  He’s been coming out consistently this whole year.  He mentioned how he had to go to Santa Barbara with his girlfriend and the girlfriend’s family, so he had to get out by 800. 

The wave size wasn’t any much smaller, maybe a foot smaller.  But the shape seemed to be holding nicely.  There were definitely some dry barrels out, but one shouldn’t even paddle into those in the first place.  The drift was semi-strong, nothing to really write home about. 

I was just super stoked that there weren’t too many people out.  It was just an overall mellow day with just the local guys out.  The waves still had some consequence in them, though.

Oscar took off on one of the waves of the day.  It was a bomb that formed on the outside, and he took off as we duck-dived.  He went left.  The wave closed out, but he was a good ways away from us.  He caught two nice rights after that too, and called it a day. 

Roy was killing it as always.  He even popped air on a left.  All he did was gather speed, and flew through the air.  He couldn’t stick the landing, but he was at least a foot off the lip.  He continued his onslaught on his backside. 

Tom was going for it like he did yesterday.  Definitely the reduced crowd gave us more breathing room.  I can’t wait till he starts to connect solid turns.  Right now, he’s throwing the board around, but can’t seem to connect them into a seconds or third maneuver.  Hopefully the pictures my dad took on Thursday will help. 

I had my Don Kadowaki out today.  I had it as a thruster set up, since I figured I wanted a change from the quad.  This proved to be a hit, since I was able to go up and down the wave with ease.  Wherever I put my eyes, my board just seemed to jump to that spot.  I was trying some more critical maneuvers but falling off.  I hope that one day I can stick these and link them in a nice wave.  

I could smell the red tide today.  It smelled like a bathroom.  I started sneezing uncontrollably.  My eyes started to water, and my sneezing wouldn't stop.  I tried my best to deal with it.

Tom had to leave, so he took off.  The waves seemed to be getting better and better as the time passed by.  It was hard to leave, but my arms were tired from the paddling and the lulls became longer.  I took one wave in and called it a day. 

Back at the lot, I talked to Calvin.  Roy was still out in the line up.  What a crazy guy.  He ended up surfing five hours this day.  I was just happy that I was able to surf on a Friday with limited crowds and no worries of going to work or anything stressful. 

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!