Surf Report: 3 feet
Winds: Off shore, then trade winds, then on shore
Atmosphere: Gloomy
Water: Cold, welcome to winter!
Matt told me he was going to the beach at first light. It was Veteran’s Day, and he had the day off, so it was only natural for him to hit the water by first light. I was determined to match his enthusiasm. I was going to go into work late since my boss is in Maui right now, and so I could do whatever the hell I wanted anyways.
Khang said he would head out around 630 AM. I missed his calls, and he missed mine, but I told him I would have to be out of the water by 1000 AM in order to be at work at a reasonable time. Even if my boss is out of town, I try to hold down the fort at a reasonable time.
I woke up at 530 AM, and got ready to go. The morning was still dark, but I could see the light starting to pierce the dark, heavy clouds. The night before, I packed all my gear up and looked forward to riding the fish again. I soon find out that the fish is water-logged, evidenced by the salty patches on the rail and water gushing out when I pressed the rail hard with my fingers. I left that board to dry out for now, and took my thrusters.
I got to the beach by 600 AM, and was getting changed when Khang called.
“Yo, you heading out today?” he asked me.
“Bro, I’m already here, changed and ready to go,” I told him.
“Shit, I’ll be there in a few!”
I head down to the beach from my parking spot and was at the sand by 620 AM. I saw that there were only a few heads out in the water. The size was small, but the winds were off shore. I hear, “Klaude!” and when I turn around, I see a metal detector guy searching for hidden treasures.
“KLAUDE! KLAUDE!!” It was Matt, calling me.
We hug and say our good mornings. He shows me his torn Hurley wetsuit at the neck, saying that it just tore as he put on his wetsuit. He comments that I was here early. What he meant to say was earlier than him, which never happens. Matt is the punctual one out of all of us. He’s up and about before any of us. So, it was nice to know I beat him for once!
However this triumph was short-lived. As we paddle out, I see a guy paddle for a right, slot himself in the pocket, and get barreled. The wave closes on him, but he punches out the lip and stands tall. I hoot him. Turns out this guy was the one, the only, FRANSAUCE.
Fuck, he beat us both?? How early did he come out?
“Klaude!” called another voice. It was Roy. “Yo, did you see that nice right Francis just caught??” Indeed, I did!!
"Haha, its so rare to see you out on a weekday... you got no work today?" Roy asked.
"Naw, I still have to work, but I figured I should get some surf in at least," I replied.
So, it was just us for the first thirty minutes. No one was really paddling out, or the gates weren’t fully open yet, so it took the other locals some time to get out to the line up.
As the minutes ticked by, the size grew and grew. Then, the winds just switched to trade winds. It was really tough just looking out to the horizon because of the winds howling passed us. My board would flip over on every wipe out that I had.
Roy definitely seized the conditions best. He would crank out two solid turns on his backhand, and go all the way to the beach on his front hand.
Fransauce had a good time too, but said he had to leave soon because he had to get to work. He vowed to take a nap today, since he woke up really early to go surf this morning. He snaked me on a wave that I tried to catch up to him by pumping through the white water. He was way ahead of me after he pumped twice, and I saw him do a nice cutback and a close out snap at the end.
Matt and I had similar rides today: nothing epic or spectacular, and stuck behind the white foam ball. It was kind of hectic out there, but it was still manageable fun.
As the trade winds died down, the on shores settled in. Christina showed up with a big smile on her face, greeting us all. I told her she was late, since she usually beats me to arrive at surf. She had a few questionable take offs where her board tomb-stoned, but she did have a good wave she took straight and rode it out.
After the on shores started to knock off the top of waves, the shape just went to shit. I didn’t find it worth it to be out there anymore, since there was nothing to ride. Matt said he would paddle in too, since he had to get ready for his SF trip. We bid Christina farewell, and she said that she would head up with us to give Matt a Veteran’s Day card. She had her students write small letters to Matt for Veteran’s Day! How cool and thoughtful is that?
Just another day, surfing in the South Bay. I had to take a nap at work too. Yay for the cat being away!!
Mahalos Mother Ocean.
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