Professor Fransauce's Workshop is Now Open 111311

Surf report: 3 footers

Water: Warmer than yesterday and clear!!

Winds: non-existent

Atmosphere: Sunny and hot

Roy - Mid Cut Back Rebound

Third day in a row for surfing.  Welcome to the winter season!!  Last winter, I was out of the water because of my shoulder surgery.  This season, I’m back, stronger than ever, and my drive is fueled with diesel. 

Today was a smaller day of surf… it was at most half the size of the previous day.  I suppose it’s more manageable, but the tide definitely jumbled things up.

Roy greeted me out in the water first.  He was riding a new shortboard with neon rails.  He was fucking on point, as he always is, and hooted me and other surfers into waves.  “I’m not greedy, I’ll let you have waves… JUST DON’T WASTE THEM!” he said.

Professor Fransauce, torque power

I see Fransauce off to the north, and go greet him.  He’s been here for a while now, and says that the rights are nice, but the lefts open up cleaner.  Just on queue, he takes a nice left and hacks off the top. He says he got stung by a jelly fish or something today too.. weird. Maybe that was a good luck charm?

We greet Christina in the water, and so we have our little group going.  It was a mellow morning:  the water was crystal clear, the horizon was smog-less, and the sun was out.  It was a beautiful Sunday morning. 

The King of 26th Street - Don

Roy and Fransauce were the hands down stand outs for the day.  They both got so many waves.  Roy was killing it out there, and all the locals hooted him into the sets.  He would pass on some of them to let other people go too.  What a stand out guy.  Fransauce would catch so many waves that I wouldn’t think were catchable, and he would be able to crank out turns on them.  He is just on a different level of surf in our group. 

There was a whale out in the line up today.  I’m 99% sure it was a whale, since it was way too big for a dolphin.  Sardines were jumping out of the water, so I suppose she was having some breakfast at 26^th Street.

26th Street Local Randy

Christina was having a redemption session, since she was just in survivor mode yesterday.  Before I could say “DRC” she had caught five waves.  She was smiling from ear to ear.  It was good to see her redeem herself from the previous day’s session.  I’m not sure how many waves she caught, but her wave count must have been up to the twenties.

Cheryl made it out with Silverton today too!  I was actually surprised to see Cheryl come out on another Sunday, especially after surfing on Saturday.  It’s usually one or the other day, and not both days of surf for her.  She was on her longboard today too. 

She too was having a redemption session, and was able to catch a few waves under her belt.  I got to hoot her into a few waves going right and left.  She got long rides all the way down to shore, with my dad giving her an enthusiastic thumbs up for her long waves.  She too was stung by a jelly fish.  She said she could feel the spot getting all puffy. 

Cheryl also managed to run over another surfer.  I’m not sure what happened, but the guy looked like in serious pain.  She ran him over with her fins, and his knee got bruised I think.  He fin tip broke off completely, but the fin stayed inside the plug.  Fins are supposed to break out of the plug on any kind of hard contact.  They’re a safety feature so that nothing dangerous happens.  I guess these didn’t pass the safety test.

Cheryl's butt

Christina and I got to share a wave!  I was sure that it was a close out, but I just wanted to catch one with her.  It was a short ride, but it was fun to be sharing a wave with another friend.

Did I have any stand out waves today?  I guess I did… I had a few rights on the first few minutes of the surf session, and I got to do a few cut backs but bogged out on the turns.  Professor Fransauce told me that my foot placement is probably too far up since I’m compensating for the lack of speed on the wave by keeping my feet forward, and when I turn I need to have them on the back.  This proved to be true, and I made my adjustments but another right like those first few rights never came through.

Khang and Dais made their way out too.  They snagged the parking spot right near the Strand.  VIP parking indeed!

Semi Group Photo!

One of my earlier waves - cutting back

I didn’t get to see them surf too much because by this time, I had to get going home.  I had to get my dad home and get to coaching for my little boys. 

Overall, it was a magical session.  This whole weekend threw so many different conditions at us, and I was able to experience all of them.  I was glad that I didn’t miss out on a day of surfing.



I came home to make a quick "meal" in the form of an avocado smoothie.

2 avocadoes
3 scoops of vanilla ice cream
some honey
almond milk

HUZZAH!!

Mahalos Mother Ocean.