Surfing with the Real Locals 042812

Surf Report:  3-4 feet

Water:  Clear and cool, a bit warmer than winter!

Winds:  Slight off shore most of the day

Atmosphere:  Sunny!

I woke up early today to get to the beach.  I asked my dad at 530 AM if he was going to come down to snap some photo’s, and he said he wasn’t coming.  We needed to meet after our surf session with Roy, da local shreddah, at Roy’s body shop in Hawthorne since we needed his expertise.  My dad got side swiped by a younger girl who was stuck behind a bus and changed lanes in the middle of an intersection.  Luckily, no one was hurt in the accident, but our car needed a lot of body work, and luckily, Roy has a body shop. 

My dad told me that he might come out to snap some photos, since one of my sisters’ friend’s dad passed away, and his eulogy listed a lot of things he did, and my dad was saying, “Man, maybe I should start doing stuff…”  I laughed, telling him we’ll post his internet web browser history for his eulogy, since that’s all he does, really.  My mom told me not to be so mean to him, but someone has to press his buttons! 

So I was kinda bummed my dad wasn’t coming out to snap photos today.  I head down to my usual 26^th Street, and parked in the lot.  The local guys, Big Mikey, Ross, Don, Roy and the usual crew were all out today.  The waves looked really fun from the parking lot, so I hurried to get changed.  I told myself to slow down, so I don’t over psyche myself. 

It wasn’t too crowded at first, and I knew all the guys at the peak, so I paddled into a set wave going right.  I saw the lip curl up and get hollow, but I didn’t have the presence of mind to pull in.  I just pumped a few times on the face and kicked out. 

Roy asked me how that wave was, and I said it was ok, but I wished I pulled in. 

So, the next wave… I made sure I pulled in.  The right started to throw over, and I crouched low.  I got blinded by some spray, and then I saw the C curve after the spray for a split second.  Then, I got pinched inside, and send down, then back up, then back down further.  It was a small wave, but I still got worked pulling into the barrel.  No risk, no reward indeed!  I actually hit the bottom, and had to climb my leash to get back up. 

Roy was shredding it as usual.  Oscar, the guy on the MR twin fin colored with blue and red, was catching a lot of waves.  Mikey, our mayor, was catching some good ones too!  I was stoked to see all the older dudes catching some waves. 

Mikey and I get into a conversation about being old and feeling young.  I joked with him saying that he may be 60+ but he surfs like a 20 year old.  He said he wished he had arms like a 20 year old, but that was the important thing:  To feel young and have fun while surfing. 

Large Chicken Pho that warms the body and soul

He got into talking about Wounded Warriors, where he volunteered a few times and has met Kelly Slater.  Wounded Warriors is a program set up by the military (or army?) that takes wounded vets out into the ocean to surf.  Our friend Matt has volunteered for this too.  He said that Kelly Slater said, “The best surfer is the one who is having the most fun.” 

And then he elaborated on how one of the local guys, a knee boarder on a foamie, is probably one of the best surfers because he’s always having fun.  I’ve always seen him in the water and in the parking lot, and wondered why he never stood up but just knee boarded.  Well, turns out he had liver transplant, kidney transplant, and something with his lymph node, and so he’s unable to stand up so quickly.  But, he still comes to surf all the time, because he loves surfing!  I was awe struck by that, and had a new found respect for these older dudes out in the water.  They all look out for each other to make sure everyone gets waves, and are genuinely stoked to see one of their Ohana catch a wave.

My wave of the day came early in the session, where an outside set peaked up right in front of me.  There were three dudes next to me, and we all paddled to get out of the way of the first set.  The first set was being ridden by three dolphins, the real locals of this surf spot.  The second set was just as clean, but we were all out of position again.  Another blue green wave came towards us, and the three other dudes paddled over it, but I thought to myself, I think I can make this one!  So, I flip around and start paddling and digging my arms into the wave.  I feel the speed pick up, and pop up.  I can hear the local dudes going “WhoooooOOOOooooo!!!”  and “GO GO GO GO!!” so I tell myself to just stick the drop and ride it through.  The wave was just a massive emerald wall that cleanly peeled down the line.  I made it to the end of the wave and fall on the white water chop, and make my way back to the line up. 

“Oh man, that was a good one!” Mikey tells me.

“Yea, it was ok,” I said.

“Did you see the dolphins riding with you??” said another local

“Yea, those dolphins caught some air behind you as you rode that thing!”

And so, collectively, the local dudes acknowledged my ride, saying that dolphins were surfing behind me, went under me, then came back behind me and jumped out of the wave.  I had no idea.  But I was stoked to hear that I had that wave of the day, where everyone was hooting me and I actually made it.  I just wished my dad was out photographing this session. 

Cherylita getting ready to paddle out~!

The rest of the session was mellow, and I caught a few good ones.  Tom Yamamoto was out there too, and he actually snaked me on a right.  But, he did this nice top turn going back side, so it was all good. 

I caught one right where Roy was on the left heading towards me.  He was telling me to cut back earlier, but I cut back a bit later.  I was stoked with the cut back, and he gave me props for it, but said I should have cut back earlier to keep the section going.  Looking back, I should have cut back earlier.  Oh well, another lesson learned. 

So, I take a wave in since the lulls got a little longer.  I caught a lot of waves today, and shared a lot of waves too.  It was a great session. 

Back at the parking lot, my dad pokes his head out over the ledge.  I asked him when he got here, and he said around 700 AM.  I asked if he was snapping photo’s, and he said he did!  I asked him if he got the one with the dolphins, but he said he didn’t see any dolphins.  Turns out, he got the last part of the wave where I fall off my board from the chop.  NICE! Hahahaha  but he did get the shot with the cut back.  I was stoked he came out, since he has been stuck in the house for many weekends. 

Cheryl showed up when I was getting changed!! Yay~ she was a bit late, but hey, at least she came to the beach!!  The waves were still good, but I had to leave because we had some business to handle. 

Roy's body shop

My dad and I drive to Roy’s body shop, and we drop off the car and grab some pho for breakfast/lunch. 

What a great day!  I spent the rest of the day studying, and then off to Metro Café with my family to meet up my aunt who flew in from Japan two nights before.  We grab a hefty dinner, and watched the Oklahoma City Thunder’s Kevin Durant hit the game winning shot once we got home.  All in all, a wonderful, beautiful day, and it all started by me waking up at 530 AM.

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!!!