Surf Report: 2-3 feet and sloppy
Water: Cool
Winds: Slight on shore and trade winds
Atmosphere: a bit kloudy
Back to blogging again… I just want to take a moment to say
a big thank you to everyone who has supported me throughout my arduous CPA
exam. I’ve thanked most of you in my
life in person, but for those of you who I haven’t been able to thank, thank
you always for your support!! I did my
absolute best… if you saw me in the last two months, you would know that I was
obsessively studying for this damn section of the four-part CPA exam that I failed
four times. Over the past two years, I've sacrificed so much of my life for this exam... friendships, would-be relationships (one girl that I was catching up with told me, "Don't wait two years to contact me,") surf trips, camping trips, parties, sanity, and my own personal happiness... all sacrificed for the one goal that I never thought possible... This time… this time, I know
I did my absolute, 110% best, so I am happy with my results. This was my version of Kobe Bryant scoring 81
points in a single game. He doesn't recall scoring 81, he just remembers "We have to win... we have to win." I put in the work, I put in the effort, I put in the blood, sweat and tears. Anyways, thank
you all.
So, back to surf:
this day is kind of hazy now… I talked to Khang and Dais the day before
as they drove back from Trestles, and telling me how they scored. They invited me to dawn patrol Friday
morning, which I kindly obliged. I woke
up kind of late, and got to 26th street around 700 AM. I see that there’s surf, and I see Khang’s
car. There are a lot of people in the
water this morning… but I find Khang in the line up. He’s on his New Flyer model from Channel Islands.
The surf is a little wonky, with the high tide ruining the
conditions. I didn’t really care. I was just so happy to be surfing on a work
day!! It’s been far too long since I got
to surf on a work day… I was just happy to be in the water in my 3/2.
No memorable waves this day really… I just remembering being
really happy to be in the water. Khang
and I leave the water and talk to Don and Ross.
They said that the past two or three days were much better. “Should have been here yesterday.”
I’m still getting back into the swing of things on this day…
it finally struck me that I have my life back, and that I should do what I’ve
been wanting to do this whole time. I’m
just taking life by every moment, since for the last two years I was locked up
with handcuffs on my small wrists.
Mahalos Mother Ocean!!
I am happy.
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