The Extent to Which I'll Go To Surf 050513

Surf Report: 2-3 feet
Water: Warm for Ventura County
Winds: Slight off shore
Atmosphere: Kloudy

I was hungry for surf.  Khang and I got skunked yesterday, and I thought I was ok with it, but it turns out I wasn't.  I need to be in the water!! 

I drove to 26th Street, and the waves looked bleak.  Hideki was calling me seeing if it was worth driving down to paddle out.  The place looked like the biggest lake ever.  I told him no, it isn't, and I'm going further north to see how the waves were. 

5/5 is Children's Day in Japan.  It's a day to celebrate the children that are in your family by flying carp kites outside your house and of course, gorging yourself over copious amounts of food.  I was on a time table, but I needed to surf, so I made my way back up to Zuma beach. 

Roy was already in the water, and we surfed here for about twenty minutes, until he said, "Let's just go to 0's!"  I was hesitant, but then I just started to paddle in and yelled at him, "See you there!"

It was starting to drizzle a bit, but hey, at least it wasn't as windy as it was in the South Bay.  We drove to 0's, and we watched it for a while.  there were only 3 guys out, and there were some small sets coming in every fifteen minutes. 

I decided to park up on the PCH since my credit cards were being denied at the pay station.  My pleasure, I thought to myself.  I can save $8 for stupid beach parking. 

I only had a 3/2 because I wasn't planning on surfing outside of the South Bay, let alone all the way up to 0's.  I was a bit weary about the cold water, since it tends to be a few degrees colder up here, but once I got in the water, the water was pretty amazing. 

I had a few memorable rides this day.  I do remember trying to hack off the top and realized that my stance is too wide for any sort of aesthetically pleasing turn on my back hand. 

I caught a fair share of long rides, and headed out.  I had to get back home and make guacomole and cilantro pesto with black beans for Children's Day. 

The day continued with lots of food, family, and fun.  I had to leave early because I had to coach a basketball game.  My boys were in the championship game of the South Bay FOR Tournament.  The team was a tough match up, well coached, and nitty gritty to the end, but we came out on top.  We can finally call ourselves "Champions."  So proud of them!! 

So, this weekend, I drove from LA to San Onofre, back to LA, then from LA to Manhattan Beach, from Manhattan Beach to Zuma, from Zuma to 0's, and then back home.  This is the extent I am willing to go to find surf.  Crazy? Definitely.  Love?  Passionately.  

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!!