Surf Report: 2-3 feet
Water: Cold
Atmosphere: Sunny
Winds: Null
School's back in session! How can I tell? Well, the line up was full with high school groms. "How was your summer?" "What did you do?" were the questions that were being tossed around the line up. Lots of kids were dropping in on each other.
The line up cleared up around 745, and the locals finally had a time to ourselves.
Mel had to poop so she came to the line up right on time.
She got some nice rights after I gave her the advice of crouching whenever she feels like she's gonna fall. Our natural "instinct" is to extend when we are about to fall, but if we can fight that and crouch, we'll make the wave.
I caught a lot of rides on my 5'6" Zippy fish. it was getting so easy to catch waves that i started practicing more on my turns than just pumping down the line. I tried to do three lay backs. One i gouged but fell on my back. I then tried to put less oomph on the lay back and made the turn, but it was less gougey. The third I gouged again and fell. Practice practice practice!!
The waves stayed consistent and we kept sharing more and more waves amongst the crowd. However, I had to go to work, so I cut out early.
Mahalos Mother Ocean!!!
Fuck you tax season.
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