Waiting for Matt 083113

Surf: 1-3 feet
Winds: Null
Water:Cool
 Atmosphere: Sunny and hot

I had to dawn patrol this day since I had to be in Pasadena to coach a basketball game by 930AM.

Mellie Mel and I depart the house by 600 AM and get to the parking lot by 630.

I took out my fish while she took out Pat's 6'6" fun board.

I remember catching a lot of great rides this day on my fish.

Mel also caught a lot of great waves too.  Her pop up is improving every time we go out.  This is our 3rd day straight of surfing.  Natural progression.

The whole time, I was looking for Matt.  Waiting for Godot.  I mean, waiting for Matt.

Mel gets a left from the peak.  She grabs her rail to direct her board at an angle, and slides across the surface.  Every one in the line up is watching her as the wave picks up more and more and she slides and glides.

She ends up on shore and we collectively give a loud hoot.

I paddle for a left and see Mel back out on the shoulder.  I start pumping on my heels and then cut back to the white foam.  The wave rebuilds on the inside and I start pumping more until I see the sand on the wave.  I hop off my board and look back - the take off point was a good twenty feet away.  SO STOKED.

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!!