Surf report: mushy 1-3 feet
Winds: light off shore
Water: cool
Atmosphere: sunny
Joyce joins me for a local surf session today. We show up late today
because I was up late last night, hosting a few of my boys that I used
to coach. One of said boys left his car lights on and so his battery
went dead. We had a mission to find jumper cables and finally got a
pair, only to find out my car was too advanced for jumper cables. We
tried my roommates car and hers was too advanced too. So we had to call
another friend to bring his car to jump start his car. Finally we got
the car running at 1:30 in the morning.
Surf this day was really mushy and weak. Joyce was apprehensive at first
but once she got out she realized the waves were super mushy and
forgiving. "Klaude this is the first time I'm surfing in December when
it's this cold!" she said.
I don't remember too many significant rides this day... Like I said it
was gutless surf. Joyce had fun though, and so sometimes that's all that
matters - when your friends have fun, you have fun.
We depart the ocean by 10:30 and get our respective days started. I had
to clean the house since I am leaving for Hawaii on Wednesday. In fact I
am typing this on my iPhone on the plane since I don't feel like
reading my books right now.
This is my first vacation since June of 2012. This is also my first time
returning to the North Shore since October of 2008 when I got my ass
kicked by the true power of waves. It was also the time I caught the
biggest wave of my life thus far - a solid ten footer on the face going
left at Pidley's right by Chuns reef.
I hope to catch some waves this winter, and watch the Pipeline Masters live from the beach!!
Wish me luck. And hope that I don't do anything stupid. Hahahaha
I plan to jump out of an airplane this trip so we will see how that goes.
Mahalos Mother Ocean!!!!
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