I don't quite remember too much about this day, except that it was small, gutless, and cold. I paddled out with Joyce, and she is a gnarly snowboarder turned surfer, and she hates the "big" stuff. "Big" stuff meaning anything above 2 feet.
So, it was so small today that I paddled from my Mons Pubis spot to the lifeguard tower, twice. Joyce's friend Helen came out too, and they both caught some nice waves.
I still found myself unable to muscle my way into waves like i used to. So, I must keep on truckin along.
Mahalos Mother Ocean!!
No comments:
Post a Comment