Date a girl who doesn't surf. Meet her in a posh dive bar in Los Feliz.
Make eye contact with her, and don't smile. You're too cool for that.
Approach her casually and ask her if you've seen each other in another
bar in Silverlake. She'll say yes, she has been to that bar, but before
it got so crowded. Make her laugh by offering her a rolled cigarette
when she tells you that she only has one cigarette left for her friend.
Take her by the hand as you weave her through the throngs of people in
the bar. Kiss her under the night lights of downtown Los Angeles as you
share a beer you snuck out of the bar on last call. Stay up and watch
the sun rise with her over the Hollywood sign. Take her back to your
apartment. Fuck her. And fuck your roommates who can hear you fucking
her through the paper thin walls.
Turn a one night stand into a three month stand. Miss some swells for a
late morning breakfast chorizo burrito because you stayed out late with her. Tell yourself the tide isn't
right. The winds on it. It's too crowded. It's too small. Wetsuit has
holes and it's too cold. Board dings stay unfixed as your quiver gathers
dust. Gain some weight. Tell yourself that the girl who doesn't surf
makes you happy. That she undulates like Mother Oceans' waves when she's
on top. Your hair and dick get wet from her. Not from Mother Ocean. The girl who doesn't surf may taste salty when you go down on her, which reminds you of Mother Ocean. Which is good enough. Unread surf magazines pile up in a corner, much like your surfboard
quiver. Both start to whither and yellow, yearning for a page to be
turned or a fresh coat of wax to be applied.
Exchange your wetsuit for a dress suit. Get an oversized wrist watch.
Buy a slim fit collared shirt to go with your slim fit dress slacks with
your skinny tie. Everything is skinny except for you. You who surfed
once but now dating a girl who doesn't surf. Buy lunch everyday
with your modest middle class income and have a happy hour that isn't so
happy after a desk job you loathe.
Take her out to dinner near your work, for that's all you know now. Have
the tattooed bartender pour a double whiskey shot for you. You're going
to need the liquid courage to ask her to marry you. Reminisce about the
first time you two met. Remind yourself of why you're doing this. Why
are you doing this? So all this time doesn't seem like a waste of time.
Take that last sip of whiskey and ask her to marry you. Present to her
that golden ring that she always wanted. Present it with sweaty palms
and a happy smile on your face. She'll say yes, happily, with a golden smile from her glittery lips.
Buy a house. By the beach even. Cling onto the idea that you still surf.
Get a dog. Have two kids. Try to be strict. Try to be fair. Try try
try. And fail repeatedly. Smell the Ocean breeze every day. That same Ocean breeze that once filled your beating heart but now just fills your empty lungs.
Smile contently when you watch the sunrise, and squint tiredly when you
see the sunset. All from your house with dog and two children and girl that doesn't surf. Grow old and say that you had a wonderful life.
But it wasn't. Where was the passion? Where was the adventure? Where was
that feeling of being alive? The girl that doesn't surf never
understood that feeling - she was never able to surf, let alone swim.
Your passport is void of any surf destinations. Your travel backpack has long
been auctioned off for pennies at a yard sale. Your quiver has long
shrunk in size, inversely related to your waist size. Surf magazines
avoid your mailbox. The only wax you see is in your ears as you pick at
them with your manicured nails done by a Vietnamese lady for $50.
Your life is safe, secure, and stable. It's exactly what the girl who
doesn't surf has ever hoped for. And the golden ring on her finger. It is the life of vanilla, not salted
caramel with hazelnut and chocolate syrup and whipped cream with a toasted marshmallow on top. It is the life no movie
script can ever save with a kaleidoscope ending. It is the life of a
person who dates a girl who doesn't surf.
You miss the salty water. You miss the poundings on the inside. You miss
popping up too late and free-falling through the air head first. You miss
the slide of a board on a clean face as you set your rail. You miss the
leg burn after a long ride. You miss the heart pounding, mind-numbing
love that you once felt with the girl who doesn't surf. And you
realize that you had all that at one time in your life. Before the girl who doesn't
surf walked into your life.
Don't date the girl who surfs. She has a neck tan line and sun-beaten
hair. Her skin has sunspots on them - a far cry from the fair, Vitamin D
deficient complexion of the girl who doesn't surf. Don't date the girl
who surfs. She knows the importance of staying in the moment. That the
next wave could be THE wave. That missing that wave will be the regret
of her life, since surf consumes her very soul, and her heart aches and pains every
time she thinks of the one that got away. Don't date the girl who surfs
since she will be thinking of the next swell that will hit up north, or
maybe down south. Just not locally. Local is too comfortable. Her home
is too comfortable and she needs to escape. And so she'll want to go to
places like Hawaii, Tahiti, Bali, Spain, France, Brazil or Chile.
Wherever there may be waves, that's where she will want to go. Your
passport will need new pages, for the stamps of foreign countries have trampled all over your vacant pages, and that's a burden in your daily life.
Don't date her because you will have to wake up early with her, since
the crowd will be on it by the time the sun is up. You will have to
watch the blinding rising sun from the line up at least four times a
month, changing your perception of what golden means. And you will have to
be in the water for the sun when it sets in that blinding orange haze
with the purples and the reds melding together like molten lava. You will have to surf with her until it's dark, until no one is out, except the two of you, and the full moon rising above you - the only illumination you two will have in the dark, open Ocean.
Don't
date the girl who surfs since she knows that you know that no one else knows.
Unless of course, if you go. Go go go. Go for it, she will say. It's
unsafe, it's unstable, you'll never make it, is what she won't say.
Don't date the girl who surfs since she will understand if you need to
catch one more wave, so she will wait for you on shore. Don't date a
girl who surfs since all the guys in the line up will be eye fucking
her, and you don't want prepubescent boys and retired military personnel
and every salty bastard in between to be drooling over her. And as
everyone drools over her, she'll paddle towards a wave no one sees,
spin around, and with everyone hooting her, she will paddle majestically
into a gem, pop up seamlessly, and catch that wave to shore.
Don't date a girl who surfs for the one who surfs will have other
hobbies besides surfing. She'll go to yoga, and you will too. You'll
have to master downwards dog and king pigeon and cobra. And watch other
girls on thin yoga mats in thin yoga pants stretch and contort their
body every which way while you struggle to do warrior 1 stance. She'll
want to learn guitar or ukulele, since the iPod ran out of batteries
long ago, and the eight hour drive in a remote location in the mountains where radio
signals don't reach is too quiet. She'll want to paint. Her nails will
be covered in acrylics and oils that aren't applied by a cute Vietnamese lady for $50. Her creativity will ooze out onto the canvas and onto the floor. Every stroke is graceful, as she is in the water. Every brush is a board in her eyes, and every canvas is a big, open wave for her to extend her creativity. A splash here, a dab there, a smudge there.
Date a girl who doesn't surf since the girl who does surf knows the
importance of hard work. She will be pounded and defeated alongside with
you on those days - those days that wrench your board out of your hands
and smack you down to the shallow reef. They will break a weak spirit in half, and then into quarters, just for good measure. She'll know the meaning of humble pie, and how a big slice of it is handed out to everyone at one point or another. She'll know what it means to
have the shoulders burn from a twenty minute paddle out while being
caught inside. She'll know what it means to train out of the water to be
ready for those beat downs and hold downs and marathon paddle sessions.
She'll work hard, and that's quite the opposite of a comfortable life
on the comfortable sofa in a comfortable living room in a comfortable house. Good enough aren't words that exist in her dictionary. She,
the girl who surfs, will know the satisfaction of working out, yoga, a healthy diet, and hours of traveling, all culminating in a screaming barrel that spits her
out as she looks back at you when she floats onto the shoulder, yelling, DID YOU SEE THAT?!?!
No, don't date her, because she will make you want to surf more. To be more
than just a desk job. To work out more. To be a better person in the water.
And be a better person out of the water. Don't date her, for she will
change your life, and change is the spiraling chaos of fear that engulfs
your timid soul. Don't date her, she will know the importance of being present in the fleeting moments of life's gifts, instead of looking too far forward into the future or drone on the past of what could have been. Don't date her, for she won't be satisfied without
freedom. She'll love something more than herself, and it completely sets
her free. She'll dream, she'll dance, she'll sing, she'll fly. And she will surf
however way she pleases.
brilliant! this is a really cool piece you've written kk. belongs on everyone's blog/social media site..etc.
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thanks dais!!! was getting bored of just writing about surf adventures
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