KKs Vacay: Watching the Pipe Masters and North Shore Rental 120813

Surf Report: 8-10 feet solid
Water: Warm
Winds: Off shore
Atmosphere: Sunny

I woke up kinda late... I couldn't sleep last night.  The Dojo smoked me out last night, and I had to bow out as they passed a joint while loading up the bong.  I chilled in the living room, where they proceeded to smoke wax dabs.  Damn, they smoke a gang...

I had thousands of thoughts shooting through my head and couldn't sleep... gotta sleep... Pipe Masters tomorrow...

I woke up around 7:00 and started to get my stuff together.  I didn't want to take everything with me since I'd be on the beach, so I packed my backpack and my uke, and headed to Bogart's.  I got my Acai bowl to go, where a girl just handed me one she just made.  "The guy said he'll be back, so you take this one," she said.  The place was packed with marathon runners taking a break?  or something.... I'm not sure, but it was packed already.

I made my way to the H1 and headed to the H2, making that fateful drive to the North Shore.  There are windmills dotting the hills now... a change in scenery I will have to get used to...

For just for a day, our King and Queen
Would visit all these Islands and saw everything
How would they feel about the change in our land?

Could you just imagine if they were around
and saw highways on their sacred grounds
how would they feel about this modern city life?

-Braddah Iz Hawaii '78

As I approached familiar breaks like Chuns and Left Overs, the traffic started to get heavy.  It wasn't that bad really, but there was no street parking... I saw a $10 parking "lot" and paid the guy at the front and parked next to a family.

"Let's go!  Beach day!" the parents were telling their sleepy kids.

The famed bike path

I took all my stuff with me since I didn't want any break ins.  I had packed some snack bars and what not to keep me going during the day until I decided to leave the beach.  A sign pointed "PIPELINE" right by, so I crossed the street, crossed the bike path, and headed through the two houses.  I can hear the contest horn going off....

And BAM, I was in between the Volcom house and another house, right in front of the Banzai Pipeline.  What luck!  I walked down the steps to see the third heat underway - Alejo Muniz vs. Marcus Hickman. I set out my beach towel next to these groms sitting on some camera equipment and plopped down.  I started to eat my Acai bowl as I watched the contest, live and direct.

My View of Pipeline / Backdoor

I saw many heats this day from 8:30 in the morning... I saw the camera groms were actually just guarding a photographer's stuff, a photographer named Sebastian Imizcoz.  Two babes sat at the camera gear for a while until he returned, as he would do standing photography, and then put on his fins and helmet and go photograph in the water.

The Volcom House

Joel Parko and Matt Wilko walked by and said hi to the babes and Sebastian too.  So, this photog must be famous.

Bruce Irons

Kissed by the Hawaiian Sun

I was going back and forth between my "seat" and the competitor's area getting autographs and photo's.  One thing that was common between the surfers: They were all STOKED to give me their autograph.  Genuine happiness oozed from them when they signed my book.  They didn't just scribble whatever, they made sure their autograph looked good.

Seabass after his 10 point ride

Hearing the roooooar of the white wash so close, the spit every time a wave crashed, the surfers risking everything for a barrel, and the cheers of the crowd was ELECTRIFYING.  It's unlike anything I've ever seen.  I've watched this context countless times on the web, but it doesn't compare to being there, touching the grainy North Shore sand, smelling the ocean breeze, feeling your skin bake under the sun, hearing the ten foot waves crashing and the announcers that you can name over the PA, seeing the epic wipe outs, feeling the pounding of the waves and the water washing away the spectators who are too close, and just the vibe of a beach day picnic mixed with the superbowl of surfing all together.  It was sensory overload for me.

Gabriel Medina - he has HUUUUUGE feet, meaning he has a huuuuuuuge shoe box

I talked to some people during the day.  Some came from Boston, North Carolina, Argentina, Germany, and Brazil, all to watch this contest.  Most of these people I talked to weren't even surfers - they just wanted to watch the contest though.  They would comment, "Oh wow that was so deep!" and "Oh my god!! That was such a steep drop!!" Surfing is truly becoming a globally recognized "sport."

Brazilian Butts

I watched the Pipe Masters from 8:30 AM till 2:30 PM.  I was high off of my mind, not even feeling hungry.  I told myself though, that I should eat, and so I bowed out from the contest.  I went back to the parking "lot" and there was a food truck called the Beet Box Cafe truck.  They had pretty healthy stuff and everything was locally grown, so I got a Beet Box Burrito.  It was deeeelicious!

Freddy P!!

The Beet Box Cafe truck

I made my way to my car, and packed up my stuff.  I headed towards my vacation rental, which was past Sunset Beach, two blocks past Ted's Bakery, on a small road called Comcas Road.  Children played in the driveway so I had to drive slowly.  I saw the place I would call home for the next eight days.  A family was still packing up and about to leave.  I pull up and say hi to them as they hurriedly packed their things to make space for me. 

Beto - Brazilian artist

Inside, I can see a man working furiously to clean up the place for me.  This man is none other than Myles Padaca - one of my surf hero's that surfs Sunset Beach.  He made the contest's final round in 2010, and I watched the whole contest cheering him on because of his power moves and style.  And, he was shirtless!

He greets me, showing me the whole place.  "You have allllll this space to yourself!" he said.  His wife, Chaney, came down with extra towels.  "If you need extra bedding because of a guest sleeping over, just tell us and we'll provide them for you," she said.  "Here are your keys," as she handed them to me, "and I hope you enjoy your stay.  The Medina's were just here, and we had a double move out, so it's been crazy." 

So, that family that just left was Peter Mendia's family... another surf family.  Another surfer I look up to. 

The Living Room

I settle into my new spot... I turn on the Laker game and debate if I should go back into Town... The traffic will be horrible.  I better just stay put.  After all, I'm supposed to relax on my vacation, not drive through traffic and be stressed.  Good thing I brought some of my stuff with me.  It's not much, but I'll be fine. 

Queen sized bed

I walk to Ted's Bakery and get the "healthiest" dinner plate, a deep fried mahi mahi with mac salad and rice.  It was meh.  They're most known for their desserts. 

The shitter

A quiet night of solitude for myself.  It was a stark contrast from the hustle n bustle of Waikiki and the Dojo.  There are no lights around the Country.  Crickets and birds chirped the night away as I melted into my bed at 10:00 PM.