KKs Vacay - Canoe Surfing and Sandy's 120513

Surf Report: 2-3 feet
Water: Warm
Atmosphere: Sunny
Winds: light

Bogarts Acai Bowl

and Bagel Sammich

I get up in the morning and get to my warm ups, which now include yoga, foam rolling, and theraband exercises.  Then, I go to Bogarts for breakfast.  I order an Acai bowl and a bagel sandwich, which is loaded with sprouts, Macademia nut spread, tomatoes, and capers.  They also had a dark chocolate truffle coffee that I had to order.  So delicious!! 

Diamondhead Reef

After I eat that, I return back to the Dojo as everyone else is getting up.  Alex looks at my board and fixes the ding quickly.  He drives Kev and I to his work, the Outrigger Canoe Club.  Alex fills us in on how we should coordinate paddling.  We swim to the canoe, and get in.  I sit in the front, Kev in the middle, and Alex is the anchor.  He unties the canoe, and we start paddling out to sea.  We get to a spot where there are small waves breaking, with a SUP taking some small waves for long rides. 

Alex starts to tell us how we should start on one side, then switch after ten or so strokes when he or I make the call.  "OK!! START PADDLING!!"

We paddle furiously.  There is water spraying off the bottom of the canoe.  I am nearly blinded as I continuously paddle.  I feel the boat start to pick up speed, and we stop paddling.  "Ok, LEAN TO THE LEFT!!"

Our boat takes off on a beautiful wave.  It felt like a bobsled or roller coaster ride.  The wave kept breaking and we just watched our canoe glide along...

"Ok, paddle again!!"  The wave starts to reform, and we paddle.  The boat picks up speed again, and we're in the glide of the wave.

The boat turns out of the wave, and we start paddling back to the point. 

"Wow, that was one of the coolest feelings ever!" I yell to the boys. 

As we wait, we talk about what to do if there is a wipe out. 

"Abandon ship when I say so!" Alex says. 

Kev playfully splashes water on us as we wait for the next set.

"Ok, PADDLE!!"

We paddle hard.  I see the nose lift up... Shit! Here we goooooooo!!

I put up my hands like I was on the log ride at Disneyland.  The nose dives in, and sprays buckets of water into our canoe.  I lean all the way back in my seat to compensate for the nose dive.  So much water is moving, I don't know what is going on.  Abandon ship?  No one's yelled it... Just hold on!!

Then the boat miraculously holds on in the wave.  We're gliding down the face fast.  The water we took on has to be shoveled out, so Kev, being the middle guy, takes a jug of water with the bottom cut out and a cap on it to scoop it all out while we ride.  The wave takes us for a looooong ride and we finally get out on the channel.

"Damn Klaude, you were about to abandon ship!! I saw you with your hands up like 'Ahhhh!'" Kev laughs.

Alex and I laugh at this as he scoops out more water from the canoe.

"Let's go for one more," Alex says.

We paddle out to the spot again, and we wait for a wave.

"Hey, where ya'll wanna go eat after this?" I ask.

"Wherever you wanna go, Klaude," Alex said.

"How about Ono's for some poke? I'm dying for some poke."

"Sounds good, I haven't been there in a minute," Kev says.

"OK, start paddling!" Alex says.

We paddle for a set wave, and the drop isn't as critical as last time, but it's still a long ride.  We enjoy the glide as I see the corals under us shoot by like darts.  We all lean to the left as Alex anchors his paddle into the wave to guide the canoe.

"Keep paddling!" Alex says as the wave reforms on the inside.  We paddle a few more strokes to keep up with the wave and get in to the channel.

"Man, that was one of the funnest things ever!" I yell.

"Man, you were about to abandon ship on that big one though!" Alex laughs.

We paddle from the channel back to the boat docking station.  As we paddled across the Outrigger Canoe Club, the people in the restaurant overlooking the ocean  start cheering us.  They must have been watching us catch those waves.  They're all waving, whistling, and applauding us as we paddle in. 

We dock the boat and swim back to the beach.  We rinse off at the shower, and head back to the Dojo. 

B-Sauce is up now, so we get a few ping pong games in.  Alex finishes the ding repair, and we decide it's time to eat.  Alex, Kev, Shizzles, B-sauce and I climb into Kev's car and head to Ono's Hawaiian Seafood for poke.  This place used to only have three types of poke, but now they have about twelve.  Their prices haven't gotten too steep. 

Ono's Hawaiian Seafood - a MUST!!

After we eat, we head to Sandy's beach to body surf.  Body surfing is another art form the Hawaiians perfected.  It's so scary dropping in on an inch of water as a wave pummels you from behind.  I am apprehensive at making the drop since my shoulders are so sensitive.  I don't want to injure myself, so I don't push myself over the ledge.  But, the waves were really playful and fun this day, and I got a lot or practice in.  B-sauce, Alex, and Kev are all really great body surfers.  They're able to make the drop and get barreled constantly. 

On our way to Sandy's...

We head back to the Dojo after an hour or two of body surfing. 

It just so happens that the Honolulu marathon is happening while I am staying in Hawaii.  And, it just so happens that one of my child hood friends, Taiki, is running the Honolulu marathon.  We meet up for some dinner, where we eat at Izakaya Naru.  This place is one of my favorite places to eat when staying in Hawaii.  Every menu item is original and unique, and the specials change daily.  So, if you miss out on the cold noodles with yuzu or braised pork, you won't have a chance to have it the next day.  Taiki, B-sauce, Taiki's friend Ericka (?), Shizzles, and I gorge ourselves on deep fried pork spare ribs, taco rice, and golden slow cooked pork.  Taiki couldn't drink because he's been restricting himself for the marathon.  He has been training since August, and hasn't drank alcohol since Halloween. 

Slow cooked pork

"Taco" Rice - Spicy and Crispy!

Deeeeep fried pork spare ribs

"I can't wait to drink when this is over!" he says.

We eat tons of food and call it a night.

Alex was back home with his girlfriend, Cassandra, and he asks where I wanted to surf tomorrow. 

and the obligatory sunset view from the Dojo

"North shore is 3-5 feet tomorrow, right?"  I ask.

"Yea, but maybe West side will be less crowded?"

"Ok, let's go West side," I say.  

KK's Vacay: Landing in HNL and Arriving at the Dojo

Surf Report: 2 foot Diamondhead
Water: Warm
Atmosphere: Sunset over the hills
Winds: Calm

I landed in Honolulu, smiling from ear to ear.  I could smell the sweet scent of plumeria's carried by the warm ocean breeze.  The sound of buzzing planes and airport announcements muffled my air pressure popped ears, and I could feel the humidity on my skin perspiring into small packets of sweat.  I hunched over to grab my bag and swung it over my shoulder.  I brought the boys of the Dojo some cronuts as a gift from LA.

Earlier this morning, I had woken up at 530 in the morning to start my yoga routine.  I heated up hot water, sipped on it as I stretched my neck, shoulders, core, hips, legs, and ankles.  Pat was awake already since he had to go work early.  Mel was up and gave me a biiiig hug as we said our "See you rater" to each other.  Pat had convinced me last night to bring my boards to Hawaii.

"You sure you're not taking your boards to Hawaii?" he asked.

"Yea, I'll just buy one there, and sell it back," I said.  It was already 9:00 PM and I wanted to relax.  All my stuff was packed and ready to go.  I plopped down on my chair and opened Surfer Magazine.  The first article was the Editor's Note, which detailed the Editor's trip of a life time that he was supposed to take with GoPro CEO on the CEO's private jet.  Every thing was set, packed, and ready to go... and then his wife went into labor.  His first born son was born the night he was supposed to go to Indonesia with GoPro's CEO, so he had to stay behind, his quiver left in the back of the room gathering dust.  Instead of a 20 hour red-eye on a private jet, he had a two and a half month red eye that included burping, pooping, changing diapers, feeding, and cleaning.

The focus of the article came onto his quiver, where he said that he had been all over the world with his boards, and that these boards were still with him even when his son was born.

So this hit me hard.  I need to take my quiver.  It's MY QUIVER.  They are my boards.  So what if they're not made for Hawaiian waves?  They're YOURS.  Your babies.  They've gone up and down the coast of California.  Some have gone to Hawaii.  And you're going to not just Hawaii, but the NORTH SHORE.  The surf Mecca!  The proving grounds of all things surf related.  You have to take your boards.

"Hey, can I borrow your board bag, Patdeezy?" I asked.

"Yea, you can even take one of my boards if you want," he replied, with a relieved smile.

So, I packed my Neck Beard, my Channel Islands "Aloha" board, and one of Pat's Nezzy surfboards that he takes on his surf trips.  Last minute packing is not my thing, but this was necessary.  I had to take my boards!

United Airlines charged me $100 for the whole board bag.  No questions about how much did it weigh, or how many boards were in there.  The only question was, "Cash or credit?"

I did not have my celebratory beer at LAX though.  I just went to the gate and waited for my flight, listening to my music on my phone.

So, I land at HNL, and go to baggage claim.  I have to go to odd-sized baggage claim and while I was waiting, two surf pro looking guys come with their backpacks and guitar.  The shutters of the odd-sized baggage claim open, and two guys start lugging out surfboard bags full of expensive, valuable surfboards.  The two pro looking guys get their bags, and so does another guy waiting next to me.  Where was my bag?  I check the last bag... and it was this bag.  I forgot - this isn't YOUR surfboard bag... it's Patdeezy's.

I go to the rental car spot, and this Auntie helps me out.  She said, "Ok, so you have an economy size car, yea?  Are those your boards?  How many did you bring?"

"Three."

"Those won't fit.  Upgrade for an extra $10 a day to a mid-sized SUV.  You can have a Jeep!"

"Fiiiiine.  You sell icicles to Eskimos don't you?" I laugh with her.

We start joking back and forth and she says, "Oh my, I'm not supposed to be laughing like this!  I'm not even close to being done with work yet."

"What time you pau hana?" I asked.

"Ohhhh about five."

"Well, if you're laughing like this during the day, it can't be so bad until you're done right?  Unless you want to take work seriously like those guys."

"Oh them? Yea they are toooooo serious!" she said, gleaming towards her co-workers.  Her co-workers smile and wink.  "Ok, so go outside, and choose your car.  Have a nice day!"

I go outside with the sun blazing on me.  I really need some water, but I need to choose which car I want to rent.  There are mid-sized Jeeps, a Nissan, and then a SUBARU!  I immediately open the Subaru, check the seats, check the A/C, and was sold.  I bring the car around, pack my boards, ukulele, backpack, and bag.  I call Justin, aka B-Sauce, and let him know I'm on the way to the Dojo.

The Dojo.  B-Sauce, Shizzles, Alex, and Kev live there.  It's where I've stayed last trip.  It's where I met Fransauce years ago.  It's where it feels like home. There are Japanese style shouji windows, and a sliding door that resembles a traditional Japanese house.  I call B-Sauce, and he tells me he's biking running errands, and he will meet me at the Dojo in a few minutes.  "Aloha welcome back!" he adds.

Arriving at the Dojo, I schlep my luggage to the house.  I leave my board bag on the side of the garage area, and proceed upstairs.  I get a cold glass of water, and chug it down.  There's a new sofa in the living room, which will double as my bed for the next four days. 

I roll out on my foam roller and close my eyes... Wow, am I really in Hawaii in December?  It seems unreal... I breathe slowly, rolling out the kinks in my back and shoulders... Hawaii... in December...

"Oh SHIT! Klaude??"

I open my eyes, and it's Shizzles. 

"What's uuuuuup!! We were wondering when you were arriving!!" He gives me a big welcome back hug. 

"Yoooooo! Yea I just got in.  I love my new bed!" I tell him.

"Oh yea man.  I just got up from a nap."

"Oh nice... Hey have you ever had a Cronut?"

"What's a Cronut?"

Well, my friend, here you go!

Cronuts from DK's Donuts in Santa Monica

B-Sauce gets home, and we exchange our big manly hugs.  He gets down with the Cronuts too.  We then take a trip to the Kahala Mall and get some sushi at Kuru Kuru Sushi, a kaiten sushi place.  It's good, but the cash register girl was kinda rude... she just talks shit, trying to get attention or a reaction from the customers.  Not something you want to do to get repeat customers, for sure.

Kuru Kuru Sushi

We then bust out the ping pong table, and play for a few games. 

Ping Pong Tournament

Fransauce got off work around 4:30PM, so he stopped by in his work clothes.  We hang out, and he asks, "Do you wanna surf?"

"Yea! Let's get wet."

So, we head to Diamondhead as the sun was setting. 

It was a shitty day, maybe two feet and mushy at Diamondhead.  We made the trek down the donkey path... the donkey path that I missed so much... We paddle out as small waves roll in, and I paddle.  My shoulders aren't in Hawaii shape.  I can barely keep up with Francis.  My shoulders are burning already, and we're not even half way to the line up. 

Francis, changing with no towel <3

I duck dive.  THUNK.  Crap, did I just hit my board on the reef?  Is it too shallow right here? 

I check my nose of the board, it's fine.  Fins are fine too. 

I catch maybe two waves on my shortboard, and we head back in as it was getting dark.  As we get changed, I notice a gash on the bottom of my board.  FUCK!!

We get back to the Dojo and Alex comes home.  We didn't get to see each other last time I was here since he was training for the Coast Guard, but now he's returned, so we give each other big hugs.  I show him my board and he said he'll fix it tomorrow and it will be done by the end of tomorrow.

"Do you wanna go canoe surfing tomorrow?" Alex asks.

"Hell yea, I always wanted to!"

"Ok, we'll go tomorrow then." 

26th Street Before I Leave for HI 120113

Surf report: mushy 1-3 feet
Winds: light off shore
Water: cool
Atmosphere: sunny

Joyce joins me for a local surf session today. We show up late today because I was up late last night, hosting a few of my boys that I used to coach. One of said boys left his car lights on and so his battery went dead. We had a mission to find jumper cables and finally got a pair, only to find out my car was too advanced for jumper cables. We tried my roommates car and hers was too advanced too. So we had to call another friend to bring his car to jump start his car. Finally we got the car running at 1:30 in the morning.

Surf this day was really mushy and weak. Joyce was apprehensive at first but once she got out she realized the waves were super mushy and forgiving. "Klaude this is the first time I'm surfing in December when it's this cold!" she said.

I don't remember too many significant rides this day... Like I said it was gutless surf. Joyce had fun though, and so sometimes that's all that matters - when your friends have fun, you have fun.

We depart the ocean by 10:30 and get our respective days started. I had to clean the house since I am leaving for Hawaii on Wednesday. In fact I am typing this on my iPhone on the plane since I don't feel like reading my books right now.

This is my first vacation since June of 2012. This is also my first time returning to the North Shore since October of 2008 when I got my ass kicked by the true power of waves. It was also the time I caught the biggest wave of my life thus far - a solid ten footer on the face going left at Pidley's right by Chuns reef.

I hope to catch some waves this winter, and watch the Pipeline Masters live from the beach!!

Wish me luck. And hope that I don't do anything stupid. Hahahaha

I plan to jump out of an airplane this trip so we will see how that goes.

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!!!

Journey to C-Street with CC 113013

Surf report: 1-3 feet
Winds: off shore then to on shore
Water: cold
Atmosphere sunny

CC joined me on the journey up north this day. I was trying to surf on the day after thanksgiving but the waves were too big and closing out. There was absolutely no shape and therefore no reward for the risk. I watched the surf for twenty minutes and opted not to surf since the waves just weren't holding shape. Instead I went to physical therapy and strengthened my shoulder and then went to work.

So I was itching to get out to surf on Saturday. I had to surf since I missed out on the boys surfing together on thanksgiving day and since I didn't surf Friday either. I had to get out of LA in order to get some sort of rippable wave at a pointbreak.

The drive north was pretty easy. CC and I caught up in life, love, and our kids that we teach. We had our heart to heart that was way past due. We talk the whole way, with a small detour to a gas station so she could poop. She said she doesn't poop in the morning and so that was her first poop. I am proud to say that she beat me on speed of pooping. I heard her flushing as I was still wiping my butt. We both dropped off the kids in the swimming pool and continued our journey to California Street.

When we arrived, there was no free parking. In fact the tide was so high that the free parking area had no waves breaking. Some of the waves were breaking on the shore. There were only long boarders out. Bummer.

We drove further up to first point and saw that there were more waves and more people here. But hey there were waves! Gotta paddle out here then.

I put on my new booties I got from quiksilver. They have a little wiggle room but fit my foot perfectly. CC did not bring her booties.

We walk down and start stretching on the sand. Older surfers walk by smiling at CC and her curvaceous body, bending every which way and not.

We both paddle out and sit outside the peak. We keep seeing rides from the peak and inch our way closer.

I catch a warm up wave close out. I had no where to go but straight.

CC is managing her own area, so I continue to inch my way closer to the peak. Of course it's more packed over on the peak, but this is the take off zone. I have to pit myself against the other dogs in order to catch a wave at a pointbreak.

My first wave is a right and I got to pump down the line. It ran ahead of me and so I wasn't too overjoyed about the wave, but I got a few good pumps in.

I started to get more aggressively friendly towards the others. I hoot them in to waves, smile when we make eye contact, and compliment them on their rides. I like to do this because surfing at most spots seem to be taken too seriously and people are afraid of smiling. So, why not be the change you want to see in the world? I want to see more people hooting each other into waves, I want to hear more compliments being given to each fellow surfer, and I definitely want to see more smiles in the line up!!

I take off on some waves where people are in my way but I know I can make it around them. I take off on an angle and pump immediately down the face. The guys on the inside are wide eyed, deer-in-the-headlights shocked but are relieved once they see me pump away from them.

There were a lot of groms out today with their dad's pushing them into waves. Of course I hooted these kids! They need to know that surfing is a unifying activity. Not a sport that takes and takes and never gives anything back.

CC's wave:

I caught one of the first waves of the set and was paddling back out when I see a person with a blue board paddling against another surfer. The surfer on the blue board gets in, and immediately takes the high line in a sweeping pump up the face. Then she goes down on the face and straightens out. CC! She had an amazing first pump that made the other surfer back out of the wave.

I complimented her on the wave but I didn't have to - she was ECSTATIC. She couldn't stop smiling and her twinkle in her eye was out shining the sun! The best part of the wave? That I saw it. There is no other joy than sharing the experience with someone besides yourself.

Dais and I had a conversation before on how joy is something that should be shared with someone. If you got to surf perfect waves all by yourself, would you truly be happy? Or will you start to wish someone was around to share this? If a surfer catches the longest barrel of their life but no one is there to see it, was the wave really ridden at all?

Therefore, sharing that experience of a wave ride is the best feeling ever.

My ride of the day came from a small right. I was able to pump down the line and reach the open face. I carved a cut back and stayed on top of my board. The wave flattened out so I couldn't continue riding it but I was stoked. The best part? CC saw it too.

Dais made his way towards us! We said our hello's and he kept paddling until a wave just popped up and he took off. He made another surfer back out on the wave as he made his way down the line until the wave closed out. We hooted him for his ride.

Khang didn't join us until later. He waited out the back for the sets. By this time the water was starting to get choppy from the winds and CC and I were getting hungry. We took our last waves in and waves bye to dais and khang.

We both high fived each other when we got out.

We went to breakfast paradise afterwards and recounted our waves today.

I've noticed that my pop ups going left are weak and slow. No doubt because my left arm is still weak. I have to work on it more.

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!!  And mahalos for CC on coming out!!

Getting back into shape 112413

I don't quite remember too much about this day, except that it was small, gutless, and cold.  I paddled out with Joyce, and she is a gnarly snowboarder turned surfer, and she hates the "big" stuff.  "Big" stuff meaning anything above 2 feet. 

So, it was so small today that I paddled from my Mons Pubis spot to the lifeguard tower, twice.  Joyce's friend Helen came out too, and they both caught some nice waves. 

I still found myself unable to muscle my way into waves like i used to.  So, I must keep on truckin along.

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!

Don't Trust Surf Reports 112013

Surf Report: 1-3 feet
Winds: Offshore
Water: Cool
Atmosphere: Calm before the "storm" cloudy skies

I wanted to ease my way into my shortboard, but today felt like a good day to be on my fish.  My fish.. the good ol' red I call MJ for Mary Jane.  Mary Jane, Spiderman's girlfriend, has firey red hair, so it felt right to name her that.

I was supposed to meet Joyce this morning, but she gave me the run around of "The surf report says very poor.  I've never seen it VERY POOR." and "I don't want to be [shark] food, I saw it on TV last night."

I texted her back, "Zombies were on TV too." 

I have tried not to push people to surf as much.  I know people have different definitions of "love," meaning that there are different levels of commitment to certain activities such as surfing.  But, she did commit to going last night, and all I was reading was surf report this, surf report that, cold weather, tomorrow, tomorrow, tomorrow.  I don't like to rely on surf reports too much.  I check three surf reports: Wetsand, Magic Seaweed, and CDIP buoys.  I also watch the weather and tide.  And, if it looks as if there is at least something rideable, I'll go. 

So I pull up to an empty parking lot, and see a few black dots in the line up.  It seems Ross is in the line up since his car is in the lot.  Where are the groms? None of the cars were here.

I paddle out with my red fish.  The water seems cold, but I got used to it after my first duck dive.  The water was crystal clear this day... and the sun was fighting to crack through the grey clouds.  The light offshore winds feathered the peaks as they rolled in. 

I had no discomfort in my shoulder as I paddled out... a good sign.  No discomfort as I duck dived the on coming white wash... another good sign.  I flipped around for a right, and popped up.  No discomfort here either.  Two groms backed out as I pumped down the line.  I do a check turn and bounce off the white wash.  I tried to pump down the line again, but the wave died down. 

I see Ross take a left from the tower.  he pumps down the line, does a check turn, then pumps further down and busts a carving 360 on the close out section. 

He comes by to say hi to me, seeing that I caught a right.  He loves rights more than lefts, even though he is goofy footed.  However, the rights don't roll through as consistently as the left where he was, and soon he paddles back to the left.

A surfer by the name of Jack starts to talk to me.  It was so spread out that he had no one to converse to, he said. 

"You know, this is a lot better than yesterday," he said.

"It's supposed to be worse today than it was yesterday right?"

"Yea! Isn't that crazy? Surf reports... can't trust 'em."

Indeed, can't trust the reports at all. 

I hoot him into a nice right and he takes it all the way to shore.  He is stoked.  And therefore, I am stoked. 

I paddle in late into a left.  The wave crashes on me as I am popping up.  No discomfort there, either.  I do a small turn and come back in the white water, and pump a little bit more down the line. 

Speaking of pop ups, I have had to change my paddle and pop up again.  I'm keeping my shoulders lower and away from my ears every time I paddle and pop up.  It seems I've been muscling my way through the water up till now.  So, it feels like my paddle is smoother, and my pop ups are more stylish.  I hope this translates to better style. 

I surfed for about an hour, and get changed to go to work.  My morning feels... complete.  I've missed these sessions. 

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!!
 

Be Quick, But Don't Rush 111713

Waves: 2-3 feet
Winds: Offshore
Water: 3/2 still, but getting colder
Atmosphere: Sunny with patchy clouds

I injured my shoulder on October 5th, 2013.  I was going for a right, popped up, tried to do a top turn, failed, and as I was falling, my left arm was behind me.  The wave was sucking up still, since I was high on the wave, and the wave took my left arm and wrenched it behind me, popping it out of the socket. 

I was devastated. 

In hindsight, I was pushing the limits of my body.  I was surfing almost everyday, going to work for 10-11 hours, six times a week, and not getting enough rest.  Surfing was my "out" to deal with work related stress, and so in my mind, I had to surf. But in the end, I forced my body to run on fumes, and did a half ass turn, and injured myself, incapacitating and hampering my own body for a few months.

I have been going to rehab three times a week, and each session is three hours long.  Not to stop there, I continuously work on my shoulders and legs when I am at work and home.  I went to acupuncture, and realized all of my old injuries to my ankles, knees, and shoulder are resurfacing on my body with compensation injuries to my legs, hips, lower back, upper back, and neck.  I had to revamp my whole routine. 

So I have been trying to ease my way into surfing.  I swam in the pool twice prior to this day, paddled around without popping up a week earlier, and have been doing push ups on my indo board, exercise ball, and on the floor.  I felt ready to get back out in the water.

Luckily, this day was small, and high tide was mushing all the waves.  I got up late to go surf, so the dawn patrol was just leaving the lot. 

"Are you paddling out Klaude??" Eric asked. 

"Today would be a really good day for you to get back in," added Kim.

So, I got Kim's parking spot under the tree, and headed out. I grabbed Mel's board without her permission from the garage since the foamie was not there. 

I knew Bri would be out, so I paddled out to my usual spot in front of the Mons Pubis.  I can see Roy on his red fish tearing it up, and Bruce was out on his foamie.  I catch sight of Bri from behind (unmistakeably her backside) and sneak up on her.  We give each other a big hug, and chit chat. 

I was apprehensive at first paddling for the high tide mush.  I doubted myself and the condition of my shoulders.  But I told myself, "Look, you've done all the right things, you're gonna be fine.  You're ready.  JUST GO FOR IT!"

And so I caught my first left.  It was a small, down the line left, but man oh man!!! did i miss this feeling!!!!! 

I paddled back out with a smile to my face.

Bri was killing it once again.  As I paddled back out, she caught a nice right.  She took this right all the way to shore. 

She paddled back out and caught another clean right all the way to shore.  She took a long time to get back to the line up since she took it so far.  I am really impressed with her progress as a surfer, and Matt aka Donny Duckbutter, should be proud. 

I caught one right and tried to pump down the line.  The board was too big so I couldn't pump too well.  I also tried to bottom turn and the board just slooooooowly went up the face and so I couldn't really set myself up to do a turn or a floater.  But, I was still stoked. 

There was one wave where I paddled and fell.  I thought I had the wave, and popped up, but fell as I got to my feet.  The guy next to me laughed, saying, "Wow, that was some wicked backwash.  It just threw you off your board!"  I was glad it was the wave and not my body that forced me to fall. 

Bruce was killing it on his foamie this day.  He would take off behind the other locals and play catch up with them.

Roy was killing it on his red fish too.  He was getting rides from the tower all the way to the Mons. 

It was crowded as hell, but I had a great time.  I can't wait to get back on my shortboard, but I'm taking it step by step.  Be quick, but don't rush, as John Wooden said to his injured players.

So, I'm off to Hawaii on December 4th.  It is my first vacation since June of 2012, when I went with Fransauce to Oahu.  I hope to be able to surf some waves then and watch the Pipemasters live.  But, I am ok with not being able to surf the gnarly waves of the North Shore if I am not ready for them.  It's ok, I have my long term goal of surfing all winter this season, so I don't want to lose sight of that goal.

Anyways, happy surfing to all!!

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!!!