Surf Report: 2-3 feet
Water: Cold
Atmosphere: Sunny
Winds: Null
School's back in session! How can I tell? Well, the line up was full with high school groms. "How was your summer?" "What did you do?" were the questions that were being tossed around the line up. Lots of kids were dropping in on each other.
The line up cleared up around 745, and the locals finally had a time to ourselves.
Mel had to poop so she came to the line up right on time.
She got some nice rights after I gave her the advice of crouching whenever she feels like she's gonna fall. Our natural "instinct" is to extend when we are about to fall, but if we can fight that and crouch, we'll make the wave.
I caught a lot of rides on my 5'6" Zippy fish. it was getting so easy to catch waves that i started practicing more on my turns than just pumping down the line. I tried to do three lay backs. One i gouged but fell on my back. I then tried to put less oomph on the lay back and made the turn, but it was less gougey. The third I gouged again and fell. Practice practice practice!!
The waves stayed consistent and we kept sharing more and more waves amongst the crowd. However, I had to go to work, so I cut out early.
Mahalos Mother Ocean!!!
Fuck you tax season.
Friday, August 30, 2013
Thursday, August 29, 2013
Wetsuits to Dress suits 08292013
Surf Report: 1-2 feet
Water: Cold/cool (spring suit will suffice)
Atmosphere: Sunny!
Winds: None
surfed before work today with da roomie, Mellie Mel! We had to come in separate cars cuz I had to go to work, but we paddled out together out front of 26th Street.
The locals were out, including Mr. Mike, Ross, Mitch, and Don Kadowaki. I took out my fish, while Mel took out Pat's 2+1 egg shape fun board.
LOTS OF FUN WAVES!!! I couldn't believe there were some fun ones. the fish worked great. i have to keep this blog entry short since i'm at work, and it's tax season.
however, i wanted to share a little quote i heard on NPR news a few weeks back.
IF YOU DON'T WRITE, YOU'LL DIE.
perhaps this means if one doesn't put their thoughts on paper, a form of self-expression, then they will die. or that writing is a creative outlet for people, and as we all know, creativity breathes life into our rather dismal hustle and bustle life style. in any event, keep writing!!
Mahalos Mother Ocean!
Water: Cold/cool (spring suit will suffice)
Atmosphere: Sunny!
Winds: None
surfed before work today with da roomie, Mellie Mel! We had to come in separate cars cuz I had to go to work, but we paddled out together out front of 26th Street.
The locals were out, including Mr. Mike, Ross, Mitch, and Don Kadowaki. I took out my fish, while Mel took out Pat's 2+1 egg shape fun board.
LOTS OF FUN WAVES!!! I couldn't believe there were some fun ones. the fish worked great. i have to keep this blog entry short since i'm at work, and it's tax season.
however, i wanted to share a little quote i heard on NPR news a few weeks back.
IF YOU DON'T WRITE, YOU'LL DIE.
perhaps this means if one doesn't put their thoughts on paper, a form of self-expression, then they will die. or that writing is a creative outlet for people, and as we all know, creativity breathes life into our rather dismal hustle and bustle life style. in any event, keep writing!!
Mahalos Mother Ocean!
Friday, August 16, 2013
FLAT Ocean and Moving Out
It's been flat for days. I've gone to the beach, gotten skunked, and headed back home twice already this week... hopefully the weekend would be rideable?
On a personal note, I just moved to a new spot out of my parents place. The place is located in Venice, and I moved in with two girls, Melissa and Annie Rose (we call her AR.)
When I visited my cousin in NYC over Memorial Day Weekend, we went shoe shopping. After I bought my pair of shoes, she looks at me and said, "You need to move the fuck out of your place."
At first I thought to myself, "What the fuck?"
But then I listened to her.
"You've been helping them out financially long enough, and you've lived in that small room for your whole life. It's time for you to move out and grow on your own."
She was absolutely right. So, I went house hunting, thinking maybe I could buy a house.
Soon, though, I realized that my debt to income ratio was too high, and no one will give me a loan. Stupid financial institutions... they created this god damn mess, and now young people have to pay for it?
Enter Mellie Mel. She's made an appearance on my blog a few times... she's an overall good person, good energy, and a teacher. We attended UCLA together at some point, but we never met at school. Rather, in typical KK fashion, we started talking at a Surf/Skate shop called 9 Star, and have remained friends since. It seems like we both make friends wherever we go.
We always talked and discussed our teaching woes and life events going on, and so when I mentioned to her that I couldn't find a place to buy, she offered to let me rent at her house located in Venice. I've been to her house numerous times to cook and hang out, so this was a golden opportunity for me.
Her and her boyfriend, Pat, are amazing people, and I'm glad to be part of this loving home. And AR is one hilarious girl.
So, I am still looking to buy a place, but for now, I'm settled into my new (old) community of Venice. Since I am a graduate of Venice High, a lot of things are familiar, but then again, a lot of things are different.
Cheers to change!!
.JPG) |
| Finned on one of the "small" days - Lucky I wore a spring suit |
When I visited my cousin in NYC over Memorial Day Weekend, we went shoe shopping. After I bought my pair of shoes, she looks at me and said, "You need to move the fuck out of your place."
At first I thought to myself, "What the fuck?"
But then I listened to her.
"You've been helping them out financially long enough, and you've lived in that small room for your whole life. It's time for you to move out and grow on your own."
She was absolutely right. So, I went house hunting, thinking maybe I could buy a house.
Soon, though, I realized that my debt to income ratio was too high, and no one will give me a loan. Stupid financial institutions... they created this god damn mess, and now young people have to pay for it?
Enter Mellie Mel. She's made an appearance on my blog a few times... she's an overall good person, good energy, and a teacher. We attended UCLA together at some point, but we never met at school. Rather, in typical KK fashion, we started talking at a Surf/Skate shop called 9 Star, and have remained friends since. It seems like we both make friends wherever we go.
.JPG) |
| Wolfy the house cat |
.JPG) |
| Living Room |
.JPG) |
| My bedroom! yay for a queen sized bed |
We always talked and discussed our teaching woes and life events going on, and so when I mentioned to her that I couldn't find a place to buy, she offered to let me rent at her house located in Venice. I've been to her house numerous times to cook and hang out, so this was a golden opportunity for me.
Her and her boyfriend, Pat, are amazing people, and I'm glad to be part of this loving home. And AR is one hilarious girl.
.JPG) |
| Our garage - bunch of surf bums we are!! |
So, I am still looking to buy a place, but for now, I'm settled into my new (old) community of Venice. Since I am a graduate of Venice High, a lot of things are familiar, but then again, a lot of things are different.
Cheers to change!!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)