Found parking on the street!! I was excited to get to the beach today with the strong Santa Ana winds today. The weather is dry but the waves are still good. But, I'm on the late train once again... I gotta snap out of it.
There were waves today... but the high tide was killing it. It is so mushy right now with the high tide, I can't believe that the waves are even breaking. I consider ourselves lucky to be able to surf these conditions instead of it just pounding on the shore.
The sunlight baked me inside of my wetsuit as I trotted down to the sand. I can see familiar figures in the line up, including Mr. Mike the Vet, Roy, and a few other locals.
Bruce calls to me, "It's a lot like Sunday!" as he made his way down the beach, foamie in hand.
Trusty old Neck Beard... how I would love to grow one. But until I get my chia beard, I'll settle for the surf board.
I see Toby on a short board, but I hear him first. He has this trademark whistle he does to "call" the waves. Him and his blue hair, and his gorgeous wife with her blue hair. They both surfing together makes me smile.
Toby snakes an older local. He apologizes with a smile. "Sorry, I was on a longer board yesterday so I'm used to taking off on the shoulder!"
I don't remember many of the waves I got this day, except that it was just a beautiful day with great SoCal conditions. I felt great after my surf sesh, and the feeling of euphoria soaked me like the salt water from head to toe. I wish I had arrived earlier, but hey, if I hadn't, I wouldn't have scored free parking on the street!
I missed Bri on her last day in LA before she left for Oregon, so that was a small bummer.
I know I won't be surfing for the next few days, since I'm house sitting for a dog, and cooking for Thanksgiving.
Thankful that I got my surf in before the holiday!
Mahalos Mother Ocean.