Monday, December 8, 2014

High Tide 112514

Surf Report: 2-3 feet
Atmosphere: Sunny
Water: Cool
Winds: None

Found parking on the street!! I was excited to get to the beach today with the strong Santa Ana winds today. The weather is dry but the waves are still good. But, I'm on the late train once again... I gotta snap out of it.

There were waves today... but the high tide was killing it. It is so mushy right now with the high tide, I can't believe that the waves are even breaking. I consider ourselves lucky to be able to surf these conditions instead of it just pounding on the shore.

The sunlight baked me inside of my wetsuit as I trotted down to the sand. I can see familiar figures in the line up, including Mr. Mike the Vet, Roy, and a few other locals.

There were sets coming in, but they weren't breaking in the punchy beach break fashion. They would roll through and then pitch on the inside.

Bruce calls to me, "It's a lot like Sunday!" as he made his way down the beach, foamie in hand. 

 Once out there, I was so thankful for being blessed by these conditions. Not too gnarly, but the sets were big enough so that they would allow some maneuvers on the face. If I was on the wrong board, I would have called it a shitty day, but I was on my favorite Neck Beard.

Trusty old Neck Beard... how I would love to grow one. But until I get my chia beard, I'll settle for the surf board.

I see Toby on a short board, but I hear him first. He has this trademark whistle he does to "call" the waves. Him and his blue hair, and his gorgeous wife with her blue hair. They both surfing together makes me smile.

Toby snakes an older local. He apologizes with a smile. "Sorry, I was on a longer board yesterday so I'm used to taking off on the shoulder!"

I don't remember many of the waves I got this day, except that it was just a beautiful day with great SoCal conditions. I felt great after my surf sesh, and the feeling of euphoria soaked me like the salt water from head to toe. I wish I had arrived earlier, but hey, if I hadn't, I wouldn't have scored free parking on the street!

I missed Bri on her last day in LA before she left for Oregon, so that was a small bummer.

I know I won't be surfing for the next few days, since I'm house sitting for a dog, and cooking for Thanksgiving.

Thankful that I got my surf in before the holiday!

Mahalos Mother Ocean.

Thursday, December 4, 2014

Can't Remember Shit 112414

Surf Report: 2-3 feet
Water: Cool
Winds: ??
Atmosphere: ??

Don't really remember much this session, except that I was late, and Bri and I missed each other. She was heading back to Oregon for the holidays, so DRC will be a bit short-handed during the Thanksgiving Holiday.
Kitty keeping watch of our house

There were waves breaking, but they were kinda weak all session. Regardless, I remember having fun!

Maddie and her dad, Chad, were out surfing with me. She snaked me again, but this time she didn't fall. I guess I was just spreading the stoke today. We all hooted her to go for big waves, and she was charging them.

She's riding a thick board, but is able to duck dive it.

"You can duck dive that thing?" I ask.

"Yea! It's like scooping ice cream," she answered, motioning with both her arms a scooping motion.

"Chocolate? Or fruit based?"

"Pshhhh... CHOCOLATE. Fruit is just a waste."

Mahalos Mother Ocean

All You Need is One 112314

Surf Report: 2-3 feet, occ. 4 footer
Water: Cool
Atmosphere: Slightly cloudy
Winds: Calm

Khang needs his fins back. He's moving to NYC in about nine days. Well, I do need to get my Neck Beard's middle fin screw out - it's stripped. It's been stripped since my Trestles trip with Matt and Bri, and I've been riding it as a quad for the longest time. I prefer thruster, but I have been putting off getting the board repaired until now.

I go to Riders Shack, and Jay see's my board and freaks out. "Dude, gimme your board. We need to sand that down." He points at the shotty repair job of my knee going through the board in Mexico.

Jay sands everything down, and scrapes the wax off the bottom of my board. He removed the stripped screw out with precision, and we take out all of the other fins. I purchase a set of Jordy Smith futures from Riders Shack.

"These don't have the speed like you did with the Black Stix, but you'll have a lot more drive during your turns. This is all I ride around here," Jay advises. I feel like I have a brand new board.

I expected today to be a crowded day. Scoring yesterday with empty surf, I know I was telling everyone I met how we scored. And I know everyone who surfed yesterday told everyone how they scored. So it was only logical to expect a crowd.

When I wake up, there is wind howling outside my window. I can see the trees swaying back and forth. Shit, is it blown out already? Should I even go? None of my friends will be out today... I still should go.

I get to a semi-empty parking lot. But the wind isn't on it... Interesting...

The surf is still good, but it isn't as consistent as yesterday. The size has dropped off, and so the swell isn't pushing through the high tide. The lulls are longer, and the waves look like shit from the parking lot. However, a set breaks, and there are three waves to a set. They peel softly, much like yesterday, and then fade out on the inside like a whisper of smoke.

I know I'll be pushing my luck today if I take the waves to the inside. The shore pound is looking ominous!! As I stretch, I see Jose get crushed under the white shore pound. His board flies up as he gets compressed under the sand. He comes up with sand all over his sun-bronzed face.

"Have fun Klaude!" he says to me.

The tide is rising quickly... and I have to get some waves fast before it swamps out. The sets are few and far between, but they are coming... Just be patient.

I see the regular locals out in the water today. Not too crowded either. I say hi to people I pass by - those I know, and those I don't know alike. Treat everyone equally, on land and especially in the water.

For some reason, I can't get my rhythm at all this morning. I remember catching some waves, but they all mush out, and then I see someone else getting a long ass ride. I don't know why but I'm only getting a few pumps in before the wave just loses power...

"It was better earlier," says Mr. Mike, the Vietnam Vet. 

One of the locals there, Evans, is on the right waves today. I don't understand how we are sitting right next to each other, yet he is getting all the good waves, while I get the shitty ones. We aren't that different in surf ability, either. Sometimes, all you need is luck.

I finally get a nice left that I get two carves in. I flounder on the inside, debating if I should catch another. However, I decide against paddling back out and paddle in. Well, at least I got my best wave on my last wave. Sometimes, all you need is ONE.

Mahalos Mother Ocean!