Thursday, September 5, 2013

Intuition Tuesday 090313

Surf: Small and forgetful
Atmosphere: Sunny and warm
Water: Cool
Winds: Null

I didn't surf Monday, for I was a bit hung over and tired from Sunday.  We had numerous guests come through during the day and night, and I coached a championship game for my kids.  We lost by 8 points, but considering that we lost to the same team months ago by more than 30, I'd say it's an improvement!!  I am very proud of these boys.  I had to resist my urge to tell them, "Second place is only the first loser, so don't be so happy."  Most of them were upset by the result of 2nd place, and I told them, "Good, be upset.  But let it go.  Let go of that feeling of being upset, since we have another game coming up next week." 

I took out my CI Neck Beard since Khang came over last night an said that I should take out the Neck Beard is small, lackluster surf.  "It's designed for those kinds of waves!!"

Well, my intuition said, BRING THE FISH.

Shoulda listened to intuition. 

This day was gutless and small, and I had a hard time catching waves. 

The whole time, I was thinking MAN I WISH I HAD MY FISH.  There were still waves, but it was really hard to catch on my Neck Beard. 

Oh well. 

Listen to your intuition next time, KK.  Not Khang. 

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!

Tuesday, September 3, 2013

Mushy September 090113

Surf: 1-2 feet
Water: Cool
Atmosphere: Sunny / Kloudy
Winds: Null

Matt and Bri came out today!!  My partner in crime, Mel, and I drove up to the parking lot and scored a spot next to Ross, the goofy footer ripper. 

It was another day for a fish... I had a few good rides early in the morning.

Still looking for Matt. 

He was south of the towers, where the SUP crew paddle around a lot.  I know that place gets good, but it's so crowded, I stay away. 

I'm getting better with the fish, but I feel like I'm developing bad habits of being heavy on my front foot to garner speed instead of surfing off my back foot. 

Mel again was on fire today!  She is catching a lot of waves on her 6'6". 

I heard her scream, "ahhhh!!" and SPLASH!!

Orlando, aka Rastamon, yells, "I'm sorry Mel!! I was just trying to share a wave with you!!"

apparently, Mel snaked Orlando from far away, but Orlando caught up to her on the wave, and scared the shit out of her.  Mel fell, and Orlando was laughing. 

Bri and Matt paddle up to our area, and we embrace.  Bri fucking GOING FOR IT!!  She is improving every time I see her out in the water.  We cheer her on and look on with envy as she gets some mushy waves. 

Matt looked like he was struggling all morning on his magic carpet.  It was just too mushy and high tide.  He wanted to get some turns, but there was really no way to turn today, unless of course you are Ross. 

Ross can turn on a dime on the mushiest of waves, and make any wave look surfable.  He had to leave early because he had family stuff to do. 

We all get out together and congregate at the parking lot. 

The surf was pretty shitty, but it's all about the people you surf with!!!

Mahalos Mother Ocean.

Waiting for Matt 083113

Surf: 1-3 feet
Winds: Null
 Atmosphere: Sunny and hot

I had to dawn patrol this day since I had to be in Pasadena to coach a basketball game by 930AM.

Mellie Mel and I depart the house by 600 AM and get to the parking lot by 630.

I took out my fish while she took out Pat's 6'6" fun board.

I remember catching a lot of great rides this day on my fish.

Mel also caught a lot of great waves too.  Her pop up is improving every time we go out.  This is our 3rd day straight of surfing.  Natural progression.

The whole time, I was looking for Matt.  Waiting for Godot.  I mean, waiting for Matt.

Mel gets a left from the peak.  She grabs her rail to direct her board at an angle, and slides across the surface.  Every one in the line up is watching her as the wave picks up more and more and she slides and glides.

She ends up on shore and we collectively give a loud hoot.

I paddle for a left and see Mel back out on the shoulder.  I start pumping on my heels and then cut back to the white foam.  The wave rebuilds on the inside and I start pumping more until I see the sand on the wave.  I hop off my board and look back - the take off point was a good twenty feet away.  SO STOKED.

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!!