Water: Warm enough
Winds: Somewhat onshore
Atmosphere: Gloomy as fuck
This day was memorable because it was my last good day surfing on my Neckbeard. There was barely anyone out, and the waves came in clean if you were patient enough.
However, I remember that I snaked Toby's wife, the one with the blue streaks in her hair. Toby and his wife, whom I don't know the name of, are locals here, and I always let them have waves. Today though.... I felt greedy. And upon me snaking her, I had to leave. I didn't feel good about it, and I still don't feel good about it. I wish I hadn't snaked her on a left, but it was so clean! I got one good pump to separate us, and then went for broke on a rock n'roll floater. I didn't stick it, and ate shit right in front of her.
She had to ditch her board too, which made the situation even more embarrassing.
I had ordered my board from Don Kadowaki six weeks ago, and so I am starting to feel anxious....
