Happy Mother's Day 050811

Surf Report:  Ankle to waist high

Atmosphere: Cloudy

Water: Cold

Winds: Strong off shore

OK, let’s keep this short. 

I woke up.  It’s 600 AM

I called Khang.

Khang said he’s going out later.

I gave him shit about it, being the irrational fuck I am.

I checked the tides.

The tide was a negative low at 8 something.

I call Khang back, telling him I will wait

I call Christina, telling her that she should wait till the tide drops out. 

It’s really dangerous at Manhattan Beach when the tide is super low. 

I do yoga

I go back to sleep

I wake up at 800 AM. Fuck my life…

I get to Khang’s house around 830 AM.  Khang and I are sporting the only Laker purple and gold sighted in LA.

We get to 26^th Street to an empty parking lot.

Don and Long Arms give us props for supporting the Lakers.

The waves look like shit.

The wind is on shore

The waves are small

The water looks grey

We paddle out anyways.

Christina spots us and heads in.

We all say hi. 

We paddle out.

I snake a foamie.  He tells me to “watch out bro.”  He’ll get over it.

I caught a few insider double ups

Khang again catches some waves of the day

The cleanest right rolls through and he’s on it.

He does a “sorry excuse for a turn” 

We laugh. 

He was able to paddle into a wave that doubled up. 

They doubled up after his pop up and create a speed bump. 

It looked like a small Shipsterns Bluff wave.

He falls on the speed bump. 

I laugh.

Christina catches some mushy waves that take her to shore.

This asian lady catches some nice waves on her longboard

I catch some more waves, nothing memorable, or credible. 

The foamie catches more waves.

The line up empties out

The sun shines through

The ocean turns from grey to blue, and looks beautiful.

I start singing

I paddle for more inside double ups

Khang also catches the wipe outs of the day

Khang paddles for a set wave.  He wipes out as his feet slip on the pop up. 

I laugh

We keep the session short to one hour.

Christina has left without saying bye.  I was a bit pissed.

She later comes down to the parking lot to say bye.

She was unable to paddle back out on her “last wave” to say bye.

I told her that her will to say good bye to us was weak. 

The asian lady on her longboard took off.

A truck full of Phillipino’s pull up and talk about the Pacman fight. 

We take off back to our house.

Happy Mother’s day.  Mom, I love you with all my heart.  You’re the only woman in my life that will always be there, and will not break my heart.  And even if you do break my heart, I still love you.