Surf Camp Trip 052811 Part 3

Surf Report:  3-5 feet and more consistent than the morning

Atmosphere:  Sunny then cloudy

Water:  Cold/cool

Winds: On shore

I love my new wetsuit.  It doesn’t let any water in or out.  Khang told me in the morning that my old wetsuit would feel obsolete once I wore my new wetsuit because the old one is just OLD and worn out while the new one was fitting better and had new neoprene technology.  The old one got holes on the chest, and leaks water into it all the time.  The new one has four years of improved technology on the old one, and fits tighter to my body.  When I bought me old suit, I could tell it was a good suit because it didn’t let any water in or out.  So, when I pee’d myself, none of it would exit, and no ocean water would enter. 

We got to Middles and our crew set up shop, eight members deep.  It was Khoa, Khang, Dais, Matt, Fransauce, Christina, Nicole, and myself.  I think this was the best showing of the DRC in our short history, and it felt good to be rolling mob deep.  There was an empty line up in front of us, and waves rolling through.  The water looked like crystals glistening in the sun, and the hot sun baked us in our wetsuits. 

Matt’s second ride was a great one.  He set himself up on a right, bottom turned, and then hit the lip with a small splash.  Unsatisfied with that, he re-entered, bottom turned again, and then cracked the whip on the lip for an enthusiastic SPLASH off the lip.  Dais and I hooted him for that, and threw up water for him as to mimic the amount of spray we saw out of the back. 

Khang and Khoa were hungry and irritable.  Well, maybe Khang was more irritable than Khoa.  They both went for the same wave and started to yell at each other.  I’m sure it was playful aggression, but it was rare to see Khang running on empty.  He told us what he had eaten, and said he was still hungry and felt out of energy. 

Dais had one sick ass wave that I remember.  I was on the inside so I got to see his whole wave.  I thought Matt was going to catch it at first, but he was out of position and told Dais to go for it.  Dais paddles and kicks, and then pops up.  He was looking like he was dropping knee, but this time his feet were set on the back of his board, and he had a super bent knee as he made it down the face.  He kept that form, and started to lean into a thick bottom turn.  He dragged his hand on the face as the surfboard squirted water from the rail side of the board, and then I duck dived.  I saw him lose speed at the top of the wave and hooted his ride.  This was probably the cleanest bottom turn I have seen from Dais so far. 

Christina and Nicole were chatting in the line up the whole time.  They seemed to be indifferent about the surf and happy that another girl was actually surfing.  I think they chatted the whole time.

Francis had this one wave where he pumped down the line smoothly, and disappeared from the glass curtain.  “Wait for it…” I told Khoa.  “and…. BAM!” and right on queue, Francis hacked the top of the lip on his forehand.  Most of his board and maybe a fin showed up out of the lip, and he fell off the wave.  But man oh man, did that stoke our whole crew.  That one maneuver made us all push a little bit harder. 

On one wave, I was able to pump down the line nicely.  I was gathering speed for my bottom turn, and then once I bottom turned, I kept my weight on my back foot as I tried to hit the lip.  I felt my whole body crunch down as I hit the lip.  Both my thighs were bracing the g-forces, and my stomach was crunching too.  I’m not sure how it looked, but it sure felt like the closest thing to a front side turn that I have ever done so far.  Dais and Khang gave me some props for that one. 

I think we all caught a decent amount of waves this session.  Christina and Nicole left early, and Khoa followed soon after.  Khoa started the fire for the grill for us. 

I for one was having so much fun out there, I didn’t want to leave.  Matt had the highest wave count out of all of us, and he seemed to be stoked.  He saw Francis try to blow the tail, and thought he was attempting an air.  He came up with the proposition that whoever lands an air first gets their dick sucked by everyone of the DRC.  In the meantime, we should practice sucking dicks.  Or doing airs.

“This sure makes up for this morning,” he told me.

“Yea man, what more can we ask for?”

“Maybe a little bit more shape?” Matt chuckled. 

I took one last wave and my left calve started to cramp up as I did a foam climb.  That’s it for me, I was done.  I had a blast, and I got my wave count up, along with a few attempts on maneuvers. 

I paddled in and waited for da boys to finish up.  The high tide was killing it, so one by one they all came in.  First, Fransauce, then Dais, followed by Khang and finally Matt. 

We all feasted on a menu of sausages, rib eye steaks, grilled vegetables, tilapia, shrimp, more rib eye steak, more sausages, and finally, some epic smores.  Matt was generous and giving this whole night, letting everyone else eat.  He didn't realize that I was serving up the main dishes (he thought I was just giving out sampler platters) and so he missed out on a lot of the food.  But, we took care of him with some extra rib-eyes, sausages, tortillas and salsa.  We all went to sleep around 1000, while Matt and I stayed up with the fire till 1100 recounting our experiences today and reminiscing our first trips to San Onofre. 

Mahalo for a beautiful day…  but boy were we in for a surprise this night.