Surf Report: three feet and playful
Atmosphere: Sunny
Winds: On shore
Water: Cold
After lunch, some of da boys decided to paddle out in front of the camp site. Khang took out my 9’0” longboard, and went out in boardshorts. There was NO ONE surfing at this time.
We all watched him scratch out on a few waves, and finally catch one on the third try. Then, Dais started to leash up too.
Francis and Khoa followed soon after, and there were four of da boys out in the line up. After a few waves, the crowd started to show up. I guess they decided that the surf was surfable, and that it was worth the paddle out. Little did they know that these boys weren’t noobs, and that they had an idea of what they were doing.
I saw Khang catch a few nice ones on the longboard. Francis, though, was the clear stand out in the group. I saw him catch a right hander, bottom turn up the lip, hit it, drop back down, and draw another bottom turn out on the face to a cut back. What a nice, smooth style he has. And what a sweet ass.
I opted to try to nap at this point, since I was still pretty tired from the morning session. Matt wanted to save his energy for the afternoon session, as did I, so I tried to sleep in various places and positions. I tried the beach chair out in the sun, which proved to be too intense. I tried the tent, which transformed into a sauna. I then tried under the umbrella with a log underneath my head, which was the best option. I went in and out of sleep as I heard the ocean waves crash on shore and the chatter of my friends.
Da boys got out after a nice hour session in front of the camp site, and just like that, the line up became empty again. They said the water was a bit cold and it was nice to be out of the water. They snacked a bit more as we waited for 1500 to roll around to paddle back out again…
"And what a sweet ass." The words of a creative genius. Marvelous. I saw you napping. I'm surprised that Christina didn't keep you awake as she did a psychological cross examination into my childhood and how not having a father affected my life. You were right by my ass, I'm sad that I didn't have any farts. Those guys were heroes for paddling out right there and bareback. Damn . . . if we would've just headed to Middles at that hour we would've been better off. Oh well. How were we supposed to know? Walkie-Talkies.
ReplyDeleteahaha all girls are psychology majors... when they actually study psychology majors, it's worse because they get tools to study and diagnose people!! ahhhhh~!!!
ReplyDeleteyea, walkie talkies next time might not be such a shabby idea.. but then again, when else will we use walkie talkies?