Beach You to It - @ Sunset Point 040112

Surf Report: 5 feet and listless power

Water: Cold

Atmosphere: Sunny

Winds: slight on shore to strong on shore

It rained Saturday night.  Not too much though!!  I was tired from the whole day, from going surfing, to watching a historical Laker game in which Kobe shot 0/15 until he made his first basket in the fourth quarter, to working for a few hours, then spending some time at the Metro Café for dinner with Simon (a local at the Metro also.)  Fransauce told me that he will be surfing Sunday morning instead of training for his Fireman test.  He’s been training every Sunday for at least a month and a half now.  I was glad that he was going to surf tomorrow, since no one was coming out, and it was supposed to be BIG. 

We planned to hit up Sunset point around 630 so we can catch it when the crowd was thin.  I slept around 1030. 

I woke up at 730 AM, and called Francis. 

“Yo! It’s 730 bro, what are you doing?”

“Ummm, just woke up…”

“Let’s go!” I told him.

He was a bit hesitant, but then said ok. 

He picked me up and we were in the water by 830 at Sunset. 

We both took out boards we haven’t ridden.  Both were mine, but the one I rode was a board Roy gave me for free.  It was a 6’5” step up board for bigger waves.  I had to repair a lot of it and it is 99% done.  I have to still fix a few more things, but I wanted to take that board out since it was supposed to be BIG.  Fransauce rode my other thruster, my first shortboard I ever bought.  It’s a 6’4” Rising Sun that has the nose chopped off because of many accidents, but it’s still in great shape. 

Sunset was actually not crowded at all.  In fact, it wasn’t even that big.  Yes, the big sets were bigger, but we were both expecting 5 foot faces, Hawaiian scale.  However, we were let down (sort of) by the size.  Regardless, we were stoked to be surfing. 

The paddle out was super long!!  The waves broke out far from the rocks, and the Point was lined up almost to the Unocal 76 ball.  But the waves weren’t that strong.  They were actually kind of weak and slow, more suited for a longboard. 

As we paddled out, I flipped around to catch an inside roller.  The board felt good under my feet.  Maybe it’s because I spent so much time on repairing this baby that I am already accustomed to her. 

Today was definitely just a day for down the line surf.  There was no room for turns. 

I saw Francis take off on an insider that doubled up.  He was playing dodgeball with the other surfers and disappeared.  I thought he ate it.  The two surfers that he dodged were all laughing at each other, saying, “Oh man, I was just trying to get out of his way!”  Turns out Fransauce laid back down on the board, paddled a bit more, and got an inside reform.  Man, he’s so good.

This one longboarder just took every single fucking wave.  He was on every set, and paddled for each one.  Yes, he was good, but man, he should learn to share, or let some of them go.  He was definitely getting a bit tired towards the end of his session, but shit, just because you can catch all the waves, doesn’t mean you should. 

It was a mellow morning, just looking out at the horizon.  We didn’t really care what time it was, or when we were getting out.  It was an uncrowded Sunday morning at Sunset beach with waves.  Dolphins swam near us, and frolicked in the line up for a while.  There wasn’t a cloud in sight. 

Then I heard, “Fuck you you douche bag!  You’re fucking shit!  Fuck you faggot!”

I guess someone was in the way of another surfer who was being dropped in on. 

“I was just watching the guy who was dropping in on you,” the guy said, chuckling at him.

The other guy didn’t find it so comedic.

“Fuck you asshole!  Get the FUCK out!  You’re a douche bag, asshole!”

Man, really? 

I just smiled at the people around me.  I got dropped in on too, but man, it wasn’t anything to get your panties bunched up about.  Surfer’s are sometimes so unreasonably angry. 

I tried to catch those set waves, but was tricked by the fools gold.  There was no way I could catch them from the Point.  So, I decided to join Fransauce on the inside.  He told me he caught a few good ones already. 

I ended up catching only a few more rides down the line on the inside, and spent the rest of the time paddling and duck diving the sets that broke on the outside.  The SUPers and longboarders kept catching everything. 

And then the winds switched to strong off shores, and there was no shape to the wave.  I’ve had enough, and decided to get out. 

I met up Fransauce at the parking lot as we recalled our session that we spent apart most of the part.  We went to his house to have some left over Chinese food and Acai smoothies and watched the Oklahoma City Thunder trounce the Chicago Bulls. 

And it turns out that Fransauce called me the night before around 1130 to tell me that we were changing plans:  We were to surf at noon instead of early, since he was not planning on waking up early.  The funny thing was that I answered the phone and had the conversation with him.  No wonder he was hesitant in the morning at 730 to go out!  I’ve done this before, this sleep talking on the phone.  Bad habit I guess.  Either way, we didn’t regret surfing earlier rather than later, since the winds got really strong by noon. 

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!!  What a beautiful Sunday.