Sunday Morning is All I Need 041512

Surf Report: Fun 2-3 footers

Water: Cold

Atmosphere: Sunny

Winds: Off shore

I woke up from a bad dream at 345 AM, with the stupid bird chirping in my dream.  I had a 3 part series of bad dreams, concluding with the stupid bird just chirping his little beak off, and when I wake up, it turned out to be real life.  I thought it was time to surf, but when I looked at the clock, it was 345 AM, so I tried to go back to sleep.  Stupid bird won’t shut up!  So I put ear plugs in and slept till 600 AM. 

Unexpected session today!  I didn’t believe my eyes when I got to the line up, since the surf looked shitty from the lot.  I showed up yesterday and the surf was so blown out and looked so brown from the run-off, I watched our local shaper Don Kadowaki paddle out on his own and I just went home.  However, today was super clean and super fun. 

The peak right in front of the 26^th Street tower was working.  Well, that was pretty much the only peak that was working.  Almost everyone sat there, but only the locals were getting the waves. 

Ross today was on fire.  I couldn’t believe how many waves he caught.  He was just a wave magnet.  He’s usually one of the “older dudes” that shred, but today he was really on point.  He caught every single good wave that came to this peak, getting three turns on almost every wave.  He would push me into waves too, but the waves were probably wasted in his eyes, since I could only muster a few pumps from the wave. 

Ross caught this one left right in front of me.  He did a few set up carves and then just pulled in to the barrel.  He pumped through the section and flew inside, his black figure just shooting across my eye frame.  He travelled at least ten feet inside the barrel before getting pinched at the end.  He came up, and the hugest of smiles on his face. 

“That was sick!!!” I told him.

“Man, I thought I was coming out of there!” he said, still smiling. 

I had a lot of fun today, catching a lot of waves in between the local rippers.  I got a lot of chances to practice my floaters and front side hacks, and felt very content with the session.  It was just another wave buffet at 26^th Street.  A small reward for waking up early on a Sunday morning. 

One of my disappointing moments was when there was an outside set approaching.  The wave broke waaaaay far out on the horizon, and then started to roll through to double up on the line up.  I turned around, and started to gun for the wave to match the speed.  The locals were all hooting for me, and I felt my board pick up speed, so I popped up.  I got to my feet, and felt the board sliding… slipping…!  My fins just slid out as I made the drop, and I completely ate it on the wave of the day.

I came up, disappointed, but laughed at myself.  I know I had to laugh at myself, because if I didn’t laugh at myself, then I am taking this surfing thing way to seriously.  One of the local guys turned around and said, “What happened?”

“Oh, I felt my fins slip out as I dropped in…” I told him, still chuckling.

“Aw man, yea, that take off was pretty late.”

“At least I went for it, right??” I said, to get some validation.

“Yea!!  You went for it, that’s what really matters.”

So all in all, this session was a fun one.  I just wished I had a friend to share it with.  Yes, those locals are my friends, but they aren’t Da Boys.  Right now, they are all spread out over their own schedules.  No worries, we will have our time together soon enough. 

A little foodie blog for Sunday night:  Makino in Irvine. 

My second helping of sushi.. Yes, I finished each piece!

My mom’s friend from the same yoga class that I frequent opened an all you can eat buffet style sushi restaurant.  They took over an old Todai that was dilapidated and outdated, and turned it into Makino.  The fish was great, the rice was delicious, and the other food they had was pretty good too.  FYI, they serve uni (sea urchin) there on the all you can eat menu, you just have to ask.  They had a chocolate fondu machine where you can dip things such as banana’s, marshmallows, and strawberries to make your own dessert.  The price is $27 for dinner, and $17 for lunch.  Definitely a great deal.  I hope this place stays open!  Great to know another all you can eat sushi place near the beach.

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!!