Raw Commitment 110214

Surf Report: 3-5 feet and peaky
Water: Warm and gross
Winds: Offshore
Atmosphere: Sunny

Missing a day of surf.... is like missing a day of masturbation. You know you could have squeezed a session in sometime during the day, but you just never did it. And then it feels like something is missing from your whole day...

Well, I missed Saturday. It's fine, I drank a lot Friday night, entertained guests, and stayed up till 200 AM. I found my boxer briefs in our bathroom, several belongings scattered across our house, and myriads cups and bottles half full of adult beverages.

Anyway, I felt fine that Saturday was a lay day... but still, something was missing.

November 2nd is always a special day for me. I have two birthdays to celebrate: my sister from another mister, Kiyo-chan, and my boy Sasha. I also celebrate the death of my hero, Andy Irons. I always draw inspiration from all of these people in many aspects of my life, and so I always hold a special place for the 2nd of November.

Today was no different - the surf was pumping too!! I was excited, but not excited about the Hepatitis water. I can see the trail of motor oil, soot, dirt, dog shit, and whatever the fuck else was on the streets of Manhattan Beach that got washed through to our local spot.

I know DD is already out... he has taken full advantage of the daylight savings time, and is out extra early. From the shore, I can see Tom Y is out. He takes a left that is building up to a nice left, and smacks the top. He doesn't seem as snappy as he used to be... perhaps still shaking off the cobwebs.

I silently paddle out to the line up. It takes me a good few times, but I get out pretty much unscathed. I spot a good peak, and paddle hard for it. I catch the right, and take it for a one turn close out.

I see Matt, and paddle up to him quietly. He doesn't hear me since he has his ear plugs in. I creep up behind him and he smiles as he turns around.

Matt's on his Lost Mini Driver today. He is utilizing the fins I loaned him. His board looks good under him, especially in today's punchy conditions.

I remember just trying to go for a lot of committed turns and barrels, a la Andy Irons. I just wanted to approach the waves today with the rawness and emotion of AI today. I remember going for a few waves that hung me up with the offshore winds, and I couldn't stick the drop. I get pulled down, free-falling with the lip, and then SMACK right into the flats. I pray my board doesn't hit me. I come up, laugh it off, and paddle back out. Tom and Matt look back at me, and compliment me on my commitment and spectacular wipe out.

I take another right, and bottom turn hard into the lip. My board goes vertical, and the lip is hitting the bottom of the board. Unfortunately, I can feel my body come unbalanced, and now I'm falling five feet with my back towards the flats, looking at the lip falling down on me. BOOM and I get the wind knocked out of me. I get pushed down to the sand bottom, and just close my eyes. I let the brown water wash over me, and calm myself. I kick up, and finally get a gasp of air. I grab my board, and paddle right back out.

I get pounded on the paddle back out. I guess I took the first wave of the set, and there are numerous waves in the set. I see Davey just eat shit on a left, going head first down with the falls, long hair being whipped up in the air as he fell. Well, if he's eating shit... I guess I'm doing something right then.

I take off at angle for a right, and I see my board taking off sideways. "Oh shit," was the last thought in my head as I still tried to pop up. I feel the board slip out from under me, and I'm free-falling once again. I take a good wipe out and get tossed and turned a few times. 

Matt, Tom and I drift. The current isn't too strong, but it's strong enough to keep us fighting for position. Matt goes for a left, and I can tell he is just eye-balling the barrel. I'm sure he could have done some turns, but after Friday's experience, he is only going for barrels. He catches numerous lefts, getting lots of distance on them, and punching out the back or eating shit.

He gets hooted into a big left, where he just charges for it. He paddles back saying, "No where to go but straight! It's good to just get the drop."

The guy who hoots him compliments him on the wave.

The lower tide makes the wave even shittier. So weird.

Well, we had our fun. Got a busy day ahead of me with coaching, cleaning the house further, and taking a nap.

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!