Surf: 3-4 feet
Atmosphere: Sunny
Winds: Onshore and howling
Water: super warm
We're back at the campsite, and DD tells me about his last ride. He finally got a good one and called it a morning. It wasn't a marathon sesh, but it was a good two hours and some change.
We crack open beers and eat chips with guacamole and salsa. We see the conditions just go from bad to worse. But, that's not important really. We're here, chilling on the cliff, and not a worry in sight.
I promised myself to unplug for the day - no looking at my phone at all!! Except for... one time, to call my boss, Nabil, and to thank him for the day off. I unlock my phone to call him, and I see a few e-mail notifications and a few texts. I ignore them. I call my boss, thank him, see how he is doing, and throw my phone back into Matt's car. No more phone for the rest of the day.
We drink beer, eat chips, and shoot the shit. There's a good vibe going on, and we are all feeling it. The winds blow harder as we wait around the campsite. The lifeguard looking dude who rips decides to take off to Blacks. He recruits Todd to go with him. We all say fuck that shit and crack open more beers.
Pat and I hang out in the luxurious RV. This RV is decked out to the max - full bedroom with a fold out flat screen, beautiful bathroom and shower, a huge flat screen in the main area, and a small one in the cooking area, and seating for at least eight.
After pounding a few beers, we decide to head out for a noon sesh. It's blown out, and no one is out, so why the fuck not?
We all head out in boardshorts, except me. I'm wearing my springsuit. I didn't bring a second pair of boardshorts, so I change back into my springsuit.
The paddle out was... not fun. It sobered me up for sure!! The waves were crumbly, closing out, and had a lot of water moving. Every duck dive took some extra effort during our noon sesh... By the time I got out, Matt had gotten a warm up wave, but that was probably the best wave for the sesh.
I didn't catch SHIT this session. I could not find a shoulder at all.
Usually, I'd be frustrated. But today... today was different. I didn't feel as frustrated as I usually be. I watched some rides from Pat and Pete, but that was about it. I took a close out and walked out.
Yantz, his wife, and his daughter were on the sand. He kept on trying to catch Matt and my eyes. We learned from the lifeguard friend of Pat to keep looking straight forward, as if you're not looking at him, even though we are looking at him. We are both checking out his hot German daughter... and of course him in his Speedo. We finally make eye contact and he waves. We wave back as we climb the stairs.
Back at camp, one of the guys has bought tacos for all of us and delivered them. He had to go pick up his kids from school, so on the way back he picked up tacos. What a sweet deal!
We drink more beers and talk shit over food. Pete busts out his tequila, and the conversations get more lively.
Mahalos Mother Ocean!
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