It's So Hard to Wake Up on Sunday 091811

Surf Report: 1-2 feet

Water: warm

Winds: On shore

Atmosphere: Sunny almost all morning!

I’m still awe-struck by the fact I got to hang out with Clay. 

But today is another day.

I woke up very late, for I couldn’t sleep at all last night.  I took  my time once again this morning and headed out to 26^th Street. 

I couldn’t find any free parking, so I headed towards my usual spot on 15^th.  As I pulled up from 26^th Street, I pull out to Highland carelessly and almost get hit by none other than Christina.  Whoops.  Sorry!!

So I get my parking spot on 15^th, and skate down to 26^th.  The waves look small and mushy, but the water looks clean and clear.  It was another one of those beautiful days, I thought to myself.

The clouds were barely covering the hot sun as I got to the beach.  I didn’t see Francis in the water, so I figured he already left.  He told me he would be at the beach by 530, so we must have missed him.

I said hi to Don and the other local guy, and caught Rick going down a left on his gray fish.  He style was unmistakable in the line up.  I say hi to him as he gets stoked and froths over his last wave.

I say hi to Manny and Rick points out Matt was on the beach, paddling out. 

“Yo, I’m glad I wasn’t the only one tired from yesterday,” he tells me.

“Oh man, I still couldn’t sleep at all last night.  I don’t know why,” I told him.

To me, today wasn’t full of epic rides, just small consistent little waves that were super fun.  There wasn’t much room for turns for us, but Rick sure was able to do so, and so were a handful of other shredders.  We are still noobs.

Christina joined us, and Cheryl followed soon after.  At first I was hoping for a bigger showing on a Sunday morning, but as soon as there were four of us, I felt satisfied and happy.

We all called each other into waves, and watched our friends catch a lot of waves.  It wasn’t overly competitive (except for a grom on his longboard who called off Christina on a few waves) but we sure saw Christina’s Kung-Fu training come to fruition.  Our crane and mantis style were no match for her snake style.  She slithered her way through every nook and cranny and snaked EVERYONE.  I think she finally figured out that she can get away with this sort of action since she has been coming here pretty consistently, and since she has boobs.  Damn those!

Cheryl’s holy wetsuit was a good call since the water was pretty warm today.  She took some long rides all the way to shore at least twice while we surfed.  We all hooted her, and Christina was hooting her the loudest. 

Matt had a few rides going both left and right, but I think the rights were working better for him.  He had a nice long right that even Rick gave him props on. 

My memorable wave was one that I missed.  I had great positioning on the wave.  Actually, I had PERFECT positioning for the wave.  However, when I popped up, my front foot slipped off the rail, and so I was almost falling off my board.  I had my hands still on deck, so I tried to get to my feet again, but by that time, the wave had passed.  Even Uncle Miles backed out for me on that wave since he saw I had the wave. 

“OH NO! NO NO NO!!” I screamed.  But it was too late.

Major FAIL.

Matt and I called it around 1000.  We wanted to grab some breakfast, so we took our last waves and said our good-byes to Christina and Cherylita. 

We met up Francis at Rutt’s and had ourselves a nice breakfast, and Matt had to go to Lauren’s sister’s soccer game in Cal State LA.  It was so beautiful, Francis, Randall and I met up to skate for a few hours near Webster Junior High.  There’s a nice little bank there where we pumped and carved and tried to blow the tail out on our skateboards.  Before I knew it, it was 200 PM, and I had to go grocery shopping. 

So we all parted ways. 

What an amazing Sunday afternoon.

Mahalos Mother Ocean.