Christmas Eve Surf Session 122411

Surf Report: 3 footers

Water: Cool

Winds: Off shore

Atmosphere: CHILLY!! BUUUURRRR

I had to stay local today.  Matt wanted to get out of town, but I had a million things to do before Christmas, including grocery shopping and coaching basketball, and so I decided to keep it simple and stay local. 

I was able to snag the same parking spot at 26^th Street again, since I beat the 700 AM crowd again.  Once that clock strikes 700 AM, the lot fills up like those old cartoons with files of people instantaneously filling up empty spaces. 

I see the usual faces in the crowd, including Roy, Don and Bruce.  It was another mellow morning for the 26^th Street Ohana. 

I talked to Matt earlier in the morning, and he said that he and Khang were at HB, taking the gamble. 

“I hope you guys score,” I told them.

“I hope you score too!” Matt said to me.

“Brah, I always score, since it’s a mind set.” I chuckled at him.

Christina caught this wave of the day that Roy pushed us into.  I was on the inside, but Christina seemed determined to catch it, so I told her to “GO!!”  She popped up, and bottom turned into the face and took the wave to shore.  She took a long time paddling back out, but was stoked with a smile from ear to ear.  She thanked Roy for pushing her into that wave. 

I don’t really recall too many waves this day, but I remember it was fun.  Indeed, I felt like I scored some nice waves and empty line ups.  I had to leave around 900 AM, but Roy invited me out to breakfast at Mandy’s on Inglewood and 135^th Street.  I had the vegetable meat soup and biscuits and gravy.  Both were great.  And for a cheap price, how could I say no?  This was my treat to Roy, since last time he bought me lunch at Pho Lao. 

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!