Uncrowded Zero's Session 042912

Surf Report: 2-3 feet

Winds:  Off shore to slight trade winds

Water:  Cold

Atmosphere:  Sunny

Roy wanted to go to Zero’s on Sunday, and said he wanted to be out in the water by 615 AM.  I didn’t know if I could make it out so early, but I tried my hardest.  I got his text he sent at 520 AM that he was leaving his house.  I woke up at 530 AM, did my usual routine of stretches to my aching body, and made my way down to Zero’s.

Zero’s is a south facing beach, nestled in the Topanga Canyon area.  It is north of Zuma Beach, but south of Ventura County Line.  The official entrance of the place would be Nicholas Canyon. 

I call Roy when I pass Sunset to tell him I’m on my way.  I keep driving, still sleepy from the night before, and finally get to Zero’s at 630 AM.  Roy was just walking up from checking out the spot.  The parking gate was just about to open as we got changed. 

We see an empty line up from atop the hill.  It seems like no one wants to paddle out today.  I was still tired, yawning as I stretched.  Roy was amped to go out, and hit the water first.

The water was definitely colder because of the location.  Anything north of the South Bay is usually a few degrees colder, and my 3/2 was feeling frigid at best.  As I always am with a new surf spot, I assessed the conditions, and didn’t push myself too much on the waves. 

My first wave I caught was a right, and I was headed straight for the rocks.  I didn’t do anything and just kicked out, still shaking the cob webs off my head.  I didn’t want to tell Roy I was sleepy, since I felt like complaining about my own lethargy would just be an excuse of me not pushing myself.  Roy kept telling me to go for the waves as he caught another left all the way to shore.  He told me that the last time he brought someone here, that guy sliced his leg and dinged his board.  The person before that, got injured by falling into a shallow area.  The person before that, broke his collar bone…  I said, “Why are you telling me these horrible stories??”

He laughed and answered, “So you push yourself!!” 

I think the stories he told me had the opposite effect.  “Don’t tell me those stories!” I told him. 

Roy just bought a new board from a 26^th Street local for $250, and it seemed like a magic carpet under his feet.  He said he was still feeling it out, but he was definitely shredding on it. 

The wave here reminded me a bit of Huntington, and a bit of Diamondhead.  It reminded me of HB since the wave would jack up and sometimes get hollow, especially on the rights.  It reminded me of Diamondhead because of the serene surroundings of the green cliffs nestled between the Topanga Canyons.  The mist burned off from the sun that peered over the canyon’s shoulder.  I was still yawning in between sets though, unable to shake my hebetude. 

For the first hour or so, it was just Roy and myself at the main peak right in front of the take off spot, which I lined up with the big boulder.  There was another surfer about twenty yards north of us, but he was so far away we paid no attention to him.  Wave after wave, Roy and I would push each other into them.  I would go right, he would go left.  It was just beautiful. 

I tried to pull in to the hollow right handers, and got pinched on every one.  I did get a view of the C section as the lip threw over me, but I couldn’t make it out.  I think this wipe out started to wake me up.  I got the view of the green room, and then got pitched over and held down for a few seconds, and the shortness of breath definitely got my adrenaline pumping. 

Roy kept on taking lefts all the way to shore, getting three or four turns on each wave.

Some people started to show up, whom Roy already knew.  I guess he comes to this spot pretty often.  One of his friends, Maya, was an Italian lady that I spoke Italian to.  I pushed her into a wave that she got three turns off of, and she thanked me for letting her go in Italian. 

I finally woke up 100% when I got a decent right during this time, where I got two solid turns on the wave.  Maya complimented me on the ride, and I was just stoked from head to toe from the two turns I got on the wave. 

Eyes were way bigger than the stomach...

I took a left on another set, and did a cut back right in front of Roy.  The wave mushed out, and so I had to kick out.  I felt like I could have pushed the turn a little harder, and Roy pointed out that it seemed like I was half-assing the turn.  Indeed, it was a half-ass turn, so I wanted to push myself a little harder.  Actually, Roy didn't say any words such as "half-ass" to me.  He said that I didn't "power through" the turn, and that was to me a nice way of saying "half-assing it."  Roy's been through a lot with dealing with people, and I think he has a very benevolent aura about him and wants to exert his energy by pulling people up with him.  The other way to exert one's energy would be to push them down.  But Roy always seems to find the positive words to help someone progress forward.  I feel my progression is getting faster with every session I surf with Roy, and so every piece of advice and criticism I get from him I keep in mind and try to improve.  However, I am also content with the fact that I am having sessions where I can say, “Man, I could have pushed that turn a little harder.”  I have never been able to say that in seven years of surfing.  It used to be, “Man, I wish I caught that wave.” 

I’m not quite sure how many waves I caught that day, but it was definitely more than I could count with both hands.  To me, that was a fun session.  We surfed for a solid two and a half hours, mostly having the peak to ourselves.  I had to leave, since I knew I had to handle some business for my boss, so I took one last wave in, said bye to Roy and his friends, and took off. 

I went to the Dodger game this day with my extended family, Toshi-chan and Mieko-chan, along with their two beautiful kids, Quentin and Madison.  (To all of you non-Japanese readers, putting a “chan” after a name is a way to call someone of benevolent nature.  It is usually reserved for girls, but when you’re a kid, you add a “-chan” to everyone’s name.)  Toshi-chan is like an older brother to me, since we’ve known each other since… I guess the day I was born?  I’m not even sure.  Our families have always been close since our parents knew each other.  We’ve spent pretty much every holiday together as far back as I can remember, from Mother’s day, New Years Day, Christmas, and Lakers Play-off BBQ’s.  So I consider both Q and Maddie my nephew and niece.  I actually had a chance to go to the Laker game with my boss this day, but it was last minute, and I had committed to going to the Dodger game with them so I opted out of the Laker game.  I was glad I did, since I got to spend time with my little niece and nephew, chilling back with a beer in hand with Toshi-chan, and eating garlic fries and nachos with Mieko-chan.  I actually had fish tacos and a small bite of the Doyer dog, which consists of chili, nacho cheese, salsa, and jalapenos.  After the fish taco’s, I was full, so Toshi-chan finished off the Doyer dog for me.  Both the Lakers and Dodgers won, so I was happy with both. 

Mama, Dad, and Madison

All in all, another great day!  Maybe I could have slept in an hour, but then I would have missed out on the waves in an empty line up with Roy!!  I’m glad I got myself out of bed and am thankful for all the happenings this Sunday. 

Q wants a nacho chip

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!