Lessons Learned 021013

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Surf: 2-3 feet, with the occasional 6 footer

Water: Cold

Atmosphere: Sunny

Winds: Offshore, not as strong as yesterday

Four times the amount of people, and half the size.  I remember this session being fun, but the crowd factor was getting to me.  Luckily, Dais showed up.

The session started off slow, because I was running late.  I was out until 11 something the previous night because it was my homegirl Lydia’s birthday party.  We went to a “meh” Italian place, and then to a bar called Villains Tavern.  That place was fun, and there was a live band playing, which we couldn’t see since the place was packed to capacity.  I cut out early since my body was tired and I was feeling a sore throat coming on all night.  The waves weren’t as big, and there were already a lot of people in the line-up by the time I arrived.  I guess that’s what happens when you sleep in for a few minutes more. 

There were a lot of the locals out today.  Davey paddled up and sardonically said, “Where were all of them yesterday??”

“Well, when it becomes half the size, they come out to play,” I said, matter-of-factly. 

This session I kept telling myself GO FOR IT.  Go for it.  Go for it.  Go for it.  It was a really fun session, but I wished that one of my homies was out.  It’s great surfing with the locals at 26^th Street, but it isn’t the same without surfing with one of your mates. 

And as if on queue, Dais showed up.  And as soon as Dais showed up, the waves started to pump like yesterday. 

Dais was riding his Rocket too, but his is the twin-fin.  His board was the original Rocket that made me decide to get a Rocket shaped by Don Kadowaki.  He took a right that set up perfectly for him to pump front side.  He also got this left that I hooted him into, and at first, I thought he ate it, but he made the wave all the way onto the inside.  I was super stoked seeing this.  I haven’t surfed with Dais in a while, but seeing this means he is still paddling out and is getting better.  It’s always cool to see your friends getting good, fun rides. 

I don’t really remember too many rides for myself for this session.  I just remember Dais’s two really good waves that he caught right near me. 

Actually, I remember one wave.  It was a set wave, and I paddled hard for it.  I was on the peak.  It was my wave.  Dais was on my inside, and so was Oscar.  I can hear the wave start to lift and feather in the wind.  My board was picking up speed and I felt my heart race faster and faster.  “Go!! GOOOO!!” Oscar shouted.  And then, I backed out.  UGH!!!!!!!! What the fuck man!!?? What are you doing?? I asked myself.  Why didn’t you go for it??? I couldn’t believe myself. 

In the parking lot, there is a man and his wife, who have two dogs named Orca and Princess.  Orca is a beautiful Alaskan Husky, and Princess is a precious mix-breed (?) of some sort.  I love petting these dogs, and they love the attention.  The man, Al, said that he used to ski, and even taught skiing in his younger days.  He was saying how the double black diamond runs he used to go on used to scare the shit out of him, but not as much as a wave has ever scared him.  He used to scuba dive, and tried to body board in California but got worked and never tried it again.  He said that on the double black diamond runs, you can see just a steep drop, and you just HAVE TO GO.  There’s no half way in on these runs.  If you do the double black diamond run, you do the whole thing with all your guts and glory. 

“If you fell,” he said, drawing out the last word, “then you just get dragged down a few hundred feet.” 

He smiled.  “Hopefully there aren’t any rocks in your way when you’re falling down the cliff side,” he laughed.  “But, I always remember you just had to GO FOR IT, and then you’ll see if you can ride the double black diamond runs.” 

He also said while teaching skiing, when a kid fell and started to cry, he would distract them or divert their attention away from whatever was making them cry.  He would compliment a girl’s cool jacket, or a point out a tree fallen down sideways to a boy.  

And so, there you go.  I learned two lessons in one talk. 

CC showed up as Dias and I were getting changed.  She told me how she went to see the Lunar New Year with Khang and DK the previous night, and how she was talking with her Aussie boy in the morning.  She was about to paddle out, so I wished her good luck and gave her a hug. 

I hung around the parking lot a little while longer, just relaxing and talking with the people who came around.  It was definitely a good day. 

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!