Surf report: 1-3 feet
Winds: off shore then to on shore
Water: cold
Atmosphere sunny
CC joined me on the journey up north this day. I was trying to surf on
the day after thanksgiving but the waves were too big and closing out.
There was absolutely no shape and therefore no reward for the risk. I
watched the surf for twenty minutes and opted not to surf since the
waves just weren't holding shape. Instead I went to physical therapy and
strengthened my shoulder and then went to work.
So I was itching to get out to surf on Saturday. I had to surf since I
missed out on the boys surfing together on thanksgiving day and since I
didn't surf Friday either. I had to get out of LA in order to get some
sort of rippable wave at a pointbreak.
The drive north was pretty easy. CC and I caught up in life, love, and
our kids that we teach. We had our heart to heart that was way past due.
We talk the whole way, with a small detour to a gas station so she
could poop. She said she doesn't poop in the morning and so that was her
first poop. I am proud to say that she beat me on speed of pooping. I
heard her flushing as I was still wiping my butt. We both dropped off
the kids in the swimming pool and continued our journey to California
Street.
When we arrived, there was no free parking. In fact the tide was so high
that the free parking area had no waves breaking. Some of the waves
were breaking on the shore. There were only long boarders out. Bummer.
We drove further up to first point and saw that there were more waves
and more people here. But hey there were waves! Gotta paddle out here
then.
I put on my new booties I got from quiksilver. They have a little wiggle
room but fit my foot perfectly. CC did not bring her booties.
We walk down and start stretching on the sand. Older surfers walk by
smiling at CC and her curvaceous body, bending every which way and not.
We both paddle out and sit outside the peak. We keep seeing rides from the peak and inch our way closer.
I catch a warm up wave close out. I had no where to go but straight.
CC is managing her own area, so I continue to inch my way closer to the
peak. Of course it's more packed over on the peak, but this is the take
off zone. I have to pit myself against the other dogs in order to catch a
wave at a pointbreak.
My first wave is a right and I got to pump down the line. It ran ahead
of me and so I wasn't too overjoyed about the wave, but I got a few good
pumps in.
I started to get more aggressively friendly towards the others. I hoot
them in to waves, smile when we make eye contact, and compliment them on
their rides. I like to do this because surfing at most spots seem to be
taken too seriously and people are afraid of smiling. So, why not be
the change you want to see in the world? I want to see more people
hooting each other into waves, I want to hear more compliments being
given to each fellow surfer, and I definitely want to see more smiles in
the line up!!
I take off on some waves where people are in my way but I know I can
make it around them. I take off on an angle and pump immediately down
the face. The guys on the inside are wide eyed, deer-in-the-headlights
shocked but are relieved once they see me pump away from them.
There were a lot of groms out today with their dad's pushing them into
waves. Of course I hooted these kids! They need to know that surfing is a
unifying activity. Not a sport that takes and takes and never gives
anything back.
CC's wave:
I caught one of the first waves of the set and was paddling back out
when I see a person with a blue board paddling against another surfer.
The surfer on the blue board gets in, and immediately takes the high
line in a sweeping pump up the face. Then she goes down on the face and
straightens out. CC! She had an amazing first pump that made the other
surfer back out of the wave.
I complimented her on the wave but I didn't have to - she was ECSTATIC.
She couldn't stop smiling and her twinkle in her eye was out shining the
sun! The best part of the wave? That I saw it. There is no other joy
than sharing the experience with someone besides yourself.
Dais and I had a conversation before on how joy is something that should
be shared with someone. If you got to surf perfect waves all by
yourself, would you truly be happy? Or will you start to wish someone
was around to share this? If a surfer catches the longest barrel of
their life but no one is there to see it, was the wave really ridden at
all?
Therefore, sharing that experience of a wave ride is the best feeling ever.
My ride of the day came from a small right. I was able to pump down the
line and reach the open face. I carved a cut back and stayed on top of
my board. The wave flattened out so I couldn't continue riding it but I
was stoked. The best part? CC saw it too.
Dais made his way towards us! We said our hello's and he kept paddling
until a wave just popped up and he took off. He made another surfer back
out on the wave as he made his way down the line until the wave closed
out. We hooted him for his ride.
Khang didn't join us until later. He waited out the back for the sets.
By this time the water was starting to get choppy from the winds and CC
and I were getting hungry. We took our last waves in and waves bye to
dais and khang.
We both high fived each other when we got out.
We went to breakfast paradise afterwards and recounted our waves today.
I've noticed that my pop ups going left are weak and slow. No doubt
because my left arm is still weak. I have to work on it more.
Mahalos Mother Ocean!!! And mahalos for CC on coming out!!
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