KKs Vacay: V-land to Freddieland 121013

Surf Report: 3-5 feet Hawaiian Scale (6-10 feet on the face)
Water: Warm
Winds: Off shore
Atmosphere: Rain then Sun

It rained this whole morning.   It was a beautiful way to wake up on the North Shore with the roosters crowing and the rain drops rhythmically drumming down on the ground.  Another solitary moment to myself.  I breathed slowly.

I go through my usual routine of warming up.  Francis was on his way to surf with me today.  It was forecasted as a 3-5 foot Hawaiian day, so I was looking forward to some "real" surf.  I had set my limit to 5 feet on the face, and anything above that I would not paddle out.  But I quickly realized that anything under 5 feet on the face on the North Shore was not happening while I was here.  Everything will be above 5 feet on the face, and I would have to challenge my mental, physical, and spiritual self this trip.

This fat ass cat keeps the mice away

As I waited for Francis, I see this cat chilling on my door step.  He's one of the cats Myles owns.  In the manual he provides his tenants, the Padaca's warn to NOT PET THIS CAT.  The cat meows at me, and beckons to let him in.  I oblige.  He rubs on my leg and proceeds to go around his house.  After all, it is HIS house.  I am just a guest. 

Francis arrives and we exchange hugs.  He has brought two beers for our post surf brew.  He says he hasn't eaten yet, so I suggest we go to Haleiwa.

"The contest is running, it's really crowded right now," he says.

Damn, I didn't know the contest will be running in this size surf.  But then again, how big is it, really?

"Ok, let's go to Ted's then.  We can walk there."

Ted's Bakery Mushroom Omelette.  Heavy stuff

We arrive at Ted's and I get an omelette.  It's the "healthiest" thing there, but it's so greasy and cheesy that I feel a baby Ted inside of my belly... this can't be the best thing I've eaten before a surf...

We make our way back to the house and grab our boards.  We walk down the street, cross Kam highway, two blocks down, and end up going through the Sunset complex, which is more like a luxury home gated community.  We get to the beach and see Freddieland, and Velzyland in the distance.  The sun is shining by this point, and we walk down towards V-land's iconic wall.  I leave my sandals here and Francis and I start stretching.

"It's crowded today..." Francis says.

We start paddling out, and the crowd becomes apparent.  There is about three times as many people out today as there was yesterday.  On top of that,when we paddled out, a bunch of other people paddled out too.

"It's Pancho," Fransauce points out.

Pancho Sullivan - one of my all-time favorite power surfers.  His carves and layback snaps are so amazing!!  And there he was, right in front of us.

"Brah, the water level just rose five feet from all these people coming out," he said. 

It was so friggin crowded... I couldn't catch one single wave.  On top of that, Baby Ted in my belly was gurgling around and weighing me down.  I couldn't position myself, I couldn't paddle, and I couldn't surf.

"Ey, let's go over there to Freddie's.. it's less crowded so we might get some waves there," Francis says.  So, we paddle across the channel and sit on Freddie's for the rest of the session.

The left at Freddie's was working great.  The rights were short and kind of gutless.  Francis was killing it this session.  He took left after left after left.  Two turn lefts, three turn lefts, no problem.  He was just killing it. 

A small group of Aussies came out to surf too.  They were traveling to Hawaii, then to Panama, then to South America.  They were surfing pretty well too. 

This one fine girl came out in a green bikini and pink lip stick.  My god she was cute.  She was on a foamie, and killing it too.  I had numerous chances to snake her, but I was mesmerized.  She was so cute and hot, surfing on her foamie.  I couldn't bring myself to snake her. 

After about four hours in the water, we called it a day.  I was dead tired.  Baby Ted was still brewing in my stomach... never again will I eat there before a surf session. 

We walk back to the house and share a brew. 

Cheers!

"Nicole said that I should just take the next few days off and surf with you.  She said, 'You don't have to take me to work, I'll drive myself.  Go hang out with Klaude, you haven't seen him in over a year.'  She's so good to me." 

So, Francis will be staying and surfing with me for the next few days. Chee!

Runch is served

Acai Smoothie

We went to get lunch in Haleiwa.  I wanted to get some shopping done too, so we stopped off at Celestial Natural Foods.  We ate in the Beet Box Cafe, where I had a mushroom burger.  VERY ONO.  I got some shopping done (super expensive to eat healthy in Hawaii - now I understand why people will opt out from eating healthily to eating poorly here.  A pack of strawberries cost $9.99)  I get my shopping done and we head back to the house. 

The Pipe competition is still going on, but we opt to drink beers on the road back home.  Four hours of surf was exhausting.  Francis goes home and I fix myself turkey bolognese pasta and watch some TV.  I take a walk down to Sunset beach and see the most beautiful sunset.