Ua Mau ke Ea o ka ʻĀina i ka Pono - Kaiser Bowls 061812

1/2 foot to 1 feet
Cool to warm water
Off shore winds
Kloudy morning

The winds have been gusting for the past two days.  Last night the bedroom door of Alex's room kept swinging open and close, then open again.  I had to wear a long sleeve shirt while sleeping to keep me warm from the wind chill.

I awoke around 600 AM and started to dozed in and out of my slumber.  I called Fransauce but he didn't answer.  He calls me back five minutes later, and i can hear his voice coming from the living room.  This funny guy....  I get up to greet him.  He has been at the Dojo for a while now.  He said he didn't want to disturb my slumber when he arrived at the Dojo.  I warm up a glass of water and sip on it.  My anus feels like it's on fire from eating all the good food and shitting out the grease and fat.  I start stretching as Fransauce plays a game of Modern Warfare 3.  Then my stomach starts to gurgle and i could feel the morning lava coming.  i make my way to the bathroom to unleash my fury into the porcelain throne.

Fransauce is enthralled in his game.  I eat 1/2 of a papaya that he brought over.  So delicious!!  I proceed to eat the meat around the seed of a mango, which was a bit sour.  The color of the skin looked ripe, but the fruit was still sour.

There is no rush to go out to surf.  Fransauce and I discuss our plan for the morning surf.  The surf is still small, and is still windy as fuck.  Diamondhead would be strong trade winds, and we discussed last night about checking out spots in Town for surf, so we gather our things and head into Town.

We first check out Ala Moana Bowls, Rock Piles, and Kaisers.  The waves look fun at Bowls, but the rides lok short.  Kaisers look alright too.  I said, "Let's go check out other places like Kewalos and then see what's up."

As we pull out of the parking lot, we see two local girls pointing to Kaisers.  You could tell those girls were locals and probably shred.  They just had that aura about them.

We went to go check out Kewalos.  This parking lot was empty too.  The familiar scene of the rocks along the concrete wall along the water that I've watched on countless Youtube videos came to life.  We could see the waves breakage at Kewalos, but the waves seemed even smaller than Bowls.  we could see Big Rights and Big Lefts from here too.  But they did not live up to their names.

I decided to go back to Kaisers and surf there.  I say "I decided" because Fransauce has been pretty laid back about making choices to where we go surf or eat, since he now lives here and I was the visitor to these lands.  I am constantly reminded of how much I love Hawaii and how beautiful this place is.  A day 10 day vacation is way too short.  It should be a 10 year vacation.

So we head back to Bowls and get ready to paddle out.  We actually decide to paddle out towards Kaisers instead of Bowls.  We have to walk on top of the rocks used as a blockade for wave erosion.  When the waves get big, like that solid ten foot swell last year, the waves go over the blockade.  We get to the end of the rocks and walk into the ocean.  There are a few surfers paddling in from their session.

I start paddling out straight, and Fransauce warns me.

"Klaude, paddle towards those green signs.  You'll get smashed if you go that way.  The green buoys show the boats where the channel is and where the reef ends."

So, we paddle around the green sign all the way to the line up.  There were about three guys in the water: one sponger who rips, one okay asian dude, and one pretty good asian dude.

The sponger was definitely the stand out and had the spot dialed in.  He would take off, then drop knee stance mid face, do a 360 or a cutback, and then kick out.

The other asian dude that rips had Kaisers wired too.  He knew exactly how and where the wave would break, paddle maybe two or three strokes before dropping in, and do two turns on the wave.  I was amazed at their skill level.

It was a very relaxing, peaceful morning.  The water was definitely a little colder, but the howling off shores gave the wind chill factor a +10.

"Whenever it is trade wind at Diamondhead, it's off shore in Town," Fransauce said.

Fransauce had a few good rights.  On one of his first rights, he took off behind the peak, made it around the section, made the sponger back out, and continued his long ride in to the channel with a few cutbacks.

I got two okay lefts that allowed for one cutback.

Kimukatsu!  Cheese, Original, Black Pepper, and Okonomiyaki

The waves went flat as the time passed.  I thought it was going to stay consistent all morning, seeing how there was a swell coming.  But i was wrong.  There were waves, but it wasn't consistent enough to be trading waves with everybody.

Fransauce said he was cold, and although I was wearing a jacket, it was cold for me too!!  So i could only imagine how he felt.

On this one wave, I was trying to get out of the way of Fransauce and Asian ripper surfer as they split the peak.  While I paddled over the wave, I felt my fins catch one of the old, rusty pipes under water.  Aloha welcome to Hawaii.  Just don't look at your fins, I told myself...

There was an older guy with short hair who paddles to the line up towards the end of our session. His first wave was a nice right where he did one of the smoothest 360's ever.  It was almost like he didn't have any fins in his board.  This guy too had the place dialed in.  He was always on the peak, three paddling in to waves with finesse and ease.

We surfed for about two hours today. It wasn't an epic surf session.  It was another one of those, "Ho brag, let's go check out da waves brag.  If it's good, we paddle out k?" kind of days.  Still, super fun!

So bad, yet so good. 

Snow Factory

We handle some business matters, namely Fransauce getting his Hawaii state license.  Fransauce got his driver's license successfully, so now he trades his California license to kill for a Rainbow drivers license of peace and love.  He bought me a Langoisa Musubi for the wait.

We go to eat at a place called KimuKatsu, which is in town.  It's a quiet, quaint place, and very Japanese.  They slice their pork deli style, combine them with cheese, or original, or black pepper, and have numerous dipping sauces.  The rice was excellent, the meat was tender and juicy, and the kizami cabbage was solid and delicious.  It was a wonder how this place didn't have more people in the restaurant!!  It should have a line out the door.  This was an amazing place that any person can appreciate.

Then we ate at Snow Factory.  This place was good, but I still prefer the old style shaved ice.  The shaved ice here is almost like ice cream shavings.  It is still pretty fluffy, but I personally prefer the shaved ice.  Still, it was very delicious.

Since we indulged so much for lunch, I decided to eat poke and beer for dinner.

Non-indulgent dinner

Mahalos Mother Ocean!! <3