Ua Mau ke Ea o ka ʻĀina i ka Pono - Sandy's and Diamondhead 061612

Tiny day at Sandy's

Sandy's surf sesh!  It was a small day at Sandy's... not really the best surf for the day.  It was maybe 1 foot Hawaiian scale.  A generous 1 foot at that.  No real rides for me, but B-sauce got a lot of waves.  He said he was blacking out on almost every wave, and didn't feel safe to be in the water.  After a long left, where he garnished a lot of speed and took a close out barrel, he said he was kind of dizzy and needed to sit out.  We all did, and we called it a day within forty minutes at Sandy's.  

We grabbed some Mitsuken chicken on the way home and grinded on that.

Mitsuken Garlic Chicken~

Then, Fransauce and I decided to go long boarding at Diamondhead.  We tried to jam two longboards into my economy sized car.  What a mistake.  ahahaha

We do what we can

I have a new respect for long boarders who are good.  First of all, carrying down those logs on the donkey trail was tough!!  But, I actually got down to the beach without much trouble.

Paddling that thing was a challenge...  It was pretty hard on the shoulders to be paddling such a huge board in the choppy, side shore surf.

Fransauce was riding a single fin, while I rode a thruster.  I saw Fransauce catch a handful of waves, making late drops on the face.

I had a few fun ones under my belt, but nothing memorable.  It was hard turning the thing!!!  And I wouldn't be able to kick out of the wave, so i just dove into the water.  Then the wind would push the board as i pivoted it back between my legs.

Warrior Bowl! RAWR

We both only lasted a little over an hour.  Longboarding is tough on the shoulders.  We were both sore as hell.  We had to go to Jewel or Juice for a Warrior bowl, which contained Acai, strawberries, kiwi fruit, banana, granola, and honey.  YUM!!!

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!!