Ua Mau ke Ea o ka ʻĀina i ka Pono - Concessions and Tennis Courts 061912

0.5 - 2 feet
Off shore winds
Slightly Kloudy
Warm water

I slept early Monday night at 930 PM on purpose so that I didn't have to go out that night.  B-sauce was raving about some sort of industry night and half off drinks.  I didn't plan on taking part of any of that.  i just wanted to sleep and go surf.  But if you haven't found out, things never go "as planned."

I was awakened two hours later at 1130 PM with Bsauce and Kuulei laughing and joking.  They were getting ready to go out to Industry Night at Lulu's.  Since it was Monday night, all the restaurant people were off, and it was their time to party.  After refusing to go out, and even flipping a coin (two out of three times it landed on tails, which means "tail back home") B-sauce's shit talking took a toll, and I decided on going out.  Shiet, I'm on vacay right?  Might as well.  And if anyone is going to convince you to go out, it would be B-Sauce.

We ended up coming home around 500 AM.  I let Fransauce know i couldn't pick him up to go to the Outrigger Country Club where he had to fill out a job application via text.  I felt bad that I would be flaking on him.

I wake up around 900 AM to find a text from Fransauce.  He took the bus and skated to the OCC.  He will meet me at the Dojo.

We took care of a lot of errands and started our surf session around 430 PM.  Fransauce had to return his rental mo-ped in Town, so we drove into Town to handle that. 



We first decide to go check out Diamondhead.  When we first arrive, the winds are strong trade winds and the waves were small.

Tae's Teppanyaki Chicken Sukiyaki

First day of my trip I couldn't wait to get in the water at Diamondhead.  And now, I complain about the winds being off and the waves are too small.  Shame on me!!

Time to go to Town!  Fransauce takes me through Ala Moana Park and we look at spots from Bowls to Concessions.  We decide to surf at Concessions and Tennis Courts.  There is a lagoon before the reef at this spot.  Ke'iki play in the gentle, calm waters as their parents lay out.  A lot of swimmers were swimming in the lagoon too.  What an amazing "swimming pool" to be swimming in!

The paddle out was long today.  There was a break on the east where long boarders were dominating.  We headed west to where a lot of surfers were.

The spot was a chill spot, with a few dominating guys.  The sets were two footers, Hawaiian scale.  Some in between sets came through that this East Coast transplant kept catching.  These waves were tiny but he was able to read the wave well and surf the small stuff easily.

There were two guys, one goofy, one regular, who dominated this break.  For sure they surfed here every day.  They talked about Carissa Moore surfing Kewalos the day before and how she was tearing it up.  These guys split the peak on almost every wave, or would take the first and second set of the wave and leave us scrambling for scraps.

There was this beautiful surfer chick in a white bikini.  She was pure eye candy for everyone.  I let her go on this clean left where she hacked off the top, making me jizz in my boardshorts.

Fransauce hung out on the inside, catching the smaller reforms.  he was doing his thing efficiently.

I sat on the outside trying to catch the sets.  But there was alway someone on the peak.  I learned today that I have to sit on the peak and catch waves right where they break instead of the shoulder.  The peak is the most uncomfortable spot for me since I have a fear of getting pitched over and drilled, but I learned I have to get over that fear.  I have to put myself in the most uncomfortable position if I wanted to catch any of these waves.

I caught one memorable wave here, which was a right.  It was a small, 1/ 2 foot wave that I pumped down the line.  I was riding the wave, not the board, as Fransauce repeated.  I find myself repeating that mantra in my head constantly now.

We surfed for about 2.5 hours and clued it a day. It was a learning lesson for me on positioning and paddling for waves.  Some guys can two paddle into waves, because they are right where the wave is breaking instead of on the shoulder, just like I saw at Kaisers.

This wave was different from Kaiser's bowling section, as it was more forgiving and mushy.  It was more of a Trestles like wave.  If it was a foot bigger, it would have definitely been more fun.

Zippy's for dinner

Yea, it's unhealthy.. but fuck it, i'm on vacay

The paddle back was daunting, and took a toll on my lower back.  Fransauce and I started free swimming in the lagoon to get back.  We finally make i t back to the beach, and I look back at where we were surfing.  It seemed like a far, far away place that was almost unreal.  I am getting more used to Hawaiian waters.

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!