GSD 090914

Surf: 2-3 with the occasional 4 footer
Water: Warm
Winds: Marginal slight on shore
Atmosphere: Sunny

I woke up waaaaay too late. I've been having trouble sleeping early and waking up early. I dunno why, maybe stress from tax season? Anyways, I can't make it to 26th today... I will be way late into work. I have to be at work at a decent time at the moment, since we have a lot of shit to do, and our family moto is GSD. GET SHIT DONE.

I throw all my stuff into the car, and drive off to Venice. I know it's shitty there, and I don't surf it all the time, but god damnit, it's convenient! And I want to maximize surf time. I can't believe I'm seeing so many cars on my drive to surf! What am I doing with my life?? I need to get my shit together, I think to myself.

I find street parking, throw off my shirt, grab my leash and board, kick my sandals inside my car, close the trunk, lock the doors, and head to cross the street. Funny how a little desperation kicks things into gear for me.

Why am I desperate to surf today? I have no idea. I feel.... wrong? Off? Unhappy? If I don't surf... Especially during a swell. And NO WETSUIT?? C'mon man! Get outta bed and start paddling!

Ok, so the waves at Venice suck. The pier's not even working. I'm sure breakwater is, but that place is mad crowded. I can't do it... I don't know, maybe I will sometime, but I just can't at this moment. I paddle out, and there are a few people with full suits on. By the way they paddle, I can tell they are noobs. Too far up on the board, too weak, too non-committal. But the waves are just really small on the inside, and the sets are all close outs.

I don't have any memorable rides this day. I remember that I was paddling for a wave that another person was paddling for. He had priority, but I had to try. I almost stand up, but pull out. As I pull the emergency break, the surfer on my inside shouts, "What! Are you doin...." and fades away his voice as he pumped down a close out. He takes the wave all the way in, and calls it a day.

I drive into work, not overly joyous, but content. I was in the water. The sun hit my bare back, and the water was so beautiful. The papers and file folders strewn along my desk in a disorderly orderly fashion doesn't look so menacing now. The day's going to be ok. I'm ready to GSD.

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!