Wish You Were Here! 091414

Surf Report: 1-2 feet with the occasional 3 footer
Water: Warm
Atmosphere: Sunny
Winds: Trade winds blowing

I get home from the Quincenera around 1130. I fall straight to bed, not even blinking. Melting into my mattress, I have a doubt I'll make it out to San Onofre....

I wake up in a sheepish stupor. It's already 700 AM. I overslept. FUck. FUCK!! Well, better get my day started at least.

I put a pot of hot water on, and massage my stomach. I crank my neck around five times going clockwise, then five time counterclockwise. Man, I wanna go surf so badly... local can't be that bad... but I really want to surf with Matt and Bri. I haven't surfed with them in so long. Bri's been in Mexico, and Matt's been busy with family after his mother's death. I should go... but I'm so late. They're already in the water by now, and by the time I get there, they'll be out of the water. What a waste of time for both of us! They'll be packing up camp and I won't be able to surf. Well, come on... make a decision...

A small spider has set up his web along the wall of my room. I let her be for various reasons. One, I love spiders. Two, she's been eating all of these ants in my room. She's keeping it free of small pests. The spider as a spirit animal is a feminine sign, representing creativity and tactful choices. "Creativity," I mumble to myself. Am I making the right choice by going to San Onofre? Or am I making the right choice by staying local? I look at my phone, and unlock my screen. I hit the Voxer app, and listen to Donny Duckbutter's remaining message that I didn't listen to yesterday.

"Oh, and, we really wish you were here Klaude!" panted Bri.

"Yea man, wish you were here!" reiterated Matt in a worn out voice. The message ended.

"DONE," I said. Without wasting a second, I grab all my gear, basketball bag included, and head out the door. I jam onto the 405 freeway through the 90. I'm in cruise control. I'm driving down to San Onofre twice in two weeks, and I get to surf with my friends! My DRC family. Road dogs.

I jam to my Beatles playlist the whole way down, singing off key and loving it. I listened to the whole Abbey Road album and then Please Please Me.

I thought I should call them, but why bother? They're in the water. They don't have cell phones in the water.

I arrive just in time for Matt to begin cooking breakfast. He is frying up some eggs to perfection using a gentle touch with the spatula. Rick the Reptile greets me along with his wife, Tracy. Paige says hi and gives me a hug. Jane, looking very coy at first, finally said hi to me. Jordan was in the tent and just a cool "hey" as she went back to checking her Instagram feed.

Matt is worn out from surfing so damn much. He has surfed non-stop like he always does, and gives me a big hug. Bri looking gorgeous as always, gives me a big hug too.

I chit chat with everyone as Rick and Matt dance around the camp, cleaning up, cooking, getting coffee ready, and talking to everyone the whole time.

"Yea we surfed Lowers today too," said Rick. There was one chick who was out... I don't know her name though."

"Yea she was RIPPING," said Jordan. "Her name's um.... she surfs kinda weird."

"Like a stick is shoved up her butt? Sally," I say. "Sally Fitzgibbons."

"Yea her! Well, I dunno about a stick up her ass, but she does stick her butt out like this," Jordan mimics Sally's style, squatting in an awkward looking bottom turn but showing off her strong thighs nonetheless.

"Yea!! That's the way she does it!" I laugh.

"Well, she was ripping the shit out of everything!" Rick exclaims.

We eat a delicious meal of spam, eggs, and brown rice. ("We can't have breakfast until the rice is cooked. You understand, right Klaude?") The salty spam was just perfect with the rice and egg.

Then I watch Rick and his family deconstruct the whole campsite. I sit back and relax. I feel kinda guilty not helping, but I didn't stay overnight... so I guess it's ok? I'm not sure still.

Kahlil Gibran wrote in The Prophet, "Your children are not your children." I saw an allegory of this saying as Rick deconstructed the camp site. Matt helps out Rick deconstructing the camp. Rick is a father figure to Matt, so Matt has no hesitation in helping him. Ricks' daughters on the other hand... they are at best mediocre at "helping." They mostly fool around or complain about their mom not helping. Jordan is helping a lot, though. She's not blood related, but she is definitely one of Ricks' children.

The hours pass by and it's getting hotter and hotter. I'm not sure if I can surf now. By the time camp is cleaned up... it's around noon. I contemplate. You drove all the way here, didn't you?

"I'm gonna paddle out," I declare to Matt and Bri.

They drive me down to the military parking area. I thought they were going to leave and visit Orlando's camp after they dropped me off, so I just brought my board, leash, and keys. I thought I was going to walk back after they left, so why bother bringing anything else? Maybe some sandals... Definitely some sandals.

"Where you gonna paddle out?" asks Matt.

"Right here, I only have an hour or so," I reply.

"No fuss, no muss eh?" Matt says to me, "You should use the CeCe Peniston. She'll be great for now,"

I decline, saying, "Naw I wanna try my board first. Then if not, I'll switch to the CC."

We stubbornly offer and decline once more like brothers. 

I grab my Little Red, and head out to the sand. I do a light warm up since I don't plan to surf for more than an hour, and time is of the essence. I paddle out right in front, and hit the cold water. The water only feels cold because of the blazing hot sun. My skin has been baking the whole time in that t-shirt. Oh, the joys of cooling the hot body with a cool dip into Mother Ocean.

First wave, I catch a small wave that was hard to paddle into. Next three waves, the wave just rolls under me. I've had it. Matt was right, I need CC in ma life!! I paddle in to switch boards.

To my surprise, Bri is changed and ready to surf. Matt is getting Bri's board out.

"What's up?" asks Matt.

"Gonna switch," I tell him. "Gotta take CC out. You paddling out?"

He smiles. "Here, take it, I'll ride a different board."

"What? Wait what are you riding then?"

"The NSP," he says.

Bri's board... right. He wants to accommodate me and let me have CC. I thank him graciously.

Paddling out on CC, I feel like I'm on a boat. Just paddling smoothly on this thing like a longboard, only submerging my hands. I catch a small wave on her to get reacquainted.

Matt and Bri paddle out. Now, I know Matt, and so I know he's going to rip on my Little Red. He muscles into every wave, so Little Red will be perfect for him. And just as I thought that, he takes an inside wave and knocks off the top in a cautious backside snap.

I hole up six fingers for his ride.

Bri is paddling back from a wave.

I catch a wave. My timing is all off. I try to cut back but I'm too early. Then I cut back again, and I'm too late. I fall from losing my balance. Matt holds up four fingers.

Bri is paddling back from a wave, again.

Matt gets a set wave, and this time does a legit cutback and sends some spray back. He pumps further down, and does another finisher cut back. He's on shore now. I throw up six and seven fingers. 6.70.

Bri is padding back from a wave, once again.

She tells me, "Maybe Mons is doing alright?" And starts paddling further up the point. I paddle out further too.

I get a medium sized set wave, and do some better cut backs. Matt holds up six fingers for me. 

Bri is paddling back from a wave, once again.

A SUP guy paddles out. He sits at the top of the wave, and starts taking all the waves. No manner whatsoever. He snakes Bri. He snakes me. He is just like honeybadger, not giving one FUCK.

I start to look for my last wave. Make it a good one, KK, we drove all the way down here. Just. Be. Patient. The wave will come.

I waited.

and waited.

Bri paddles back from a wave, 1nce again.

and waited.

Finally, a wave pops its head out. I knew it. I paddle for the peak, and get into it easily. I start pumping immediately. I beat the first section and start pumping for home. Go CC GOOOO!

We reconvene at the car. Rick hands Bri and I an apple, and Jane offers us chips. We talk about the session, and I thank both of them for paddling out with me. We're all smiles right now. I want to rush, but I take my time. I rinse off, and hop into Matt's car, sitting on his changing pancho. Sorry for being dripping wet, Matt.

My nipples are on fire. I've been barebacking this past week. Why am I getting nipple rash all of a sudden?

"The Curse of CC!! She's a dream board to ride, but she has a price. It's the dream and curse of CC!" I exclaim. We all laugh. 

I say my good-byes to Matt and Bri, and hit the road. I have to coach a game now. I call some of the parents to let them know I'm going to be late, and so I'll need one of the parents to be coach until I arrive.

We end up winning the game. We actually destroyed the other team. The point difference was so great that they turned off the score. I was very proud of my boys.

To top off the day, Matt and Bri came over my parents house for some poke. A family friend of ours caught about five yellow fin tuna, each weighing about 18 pounds. My mom sliced it up, and so we had tons of yellow fin ahi to make into poke. Matt and Bri and my Mom and my Dad. Television was off, and we were all engaged into each other. This is what feels like family to me. This is what I cherish and value most. This feeling of warmth makes me feel at home no matter who or where we are.

Mahalos Mother Ocean and all my Ohana!!