Surf Report: 2-4 feet close outs
Water: Warm
Atmosphere: Sunny
Winds: Marginal
Today was a wonky day for surf. There was hurricane swell from the south hitting the bay, but I feel like the recent flurry of hurricane swells has messed up the bathymetry of 26th Street and moved a lot of sand. As a result, the waves are jumbled up and aren't as good in shape as they used to be.
Randy and Matt show up on the sand at the same time as I do. We are both on the Post Grom Patrol - the PGP. We walk past the 26th Street lifeguard tower and stretch. Mike, his wife and his friend Jack walk past us and paddle out further south.
Today was just a day of DROPS. Matt took the gnarliest drops in front of us. I didn't have a single wave that was memorable. Randy... just his mere presence makes me want to push my surfing. I know how gnarly he surfs, so I want to push my limit as much as possible around him. I was disappointed to not be able to show him my progress since the last time we three surfed together.
The last time we three paddled out, it was December 1, 2012. It was big and gnarly that day, and all of us got pounded. But it was a real turning point in my life, not just in surfing but my whole life. It's a day we will remember forever, and one that I cherish deeply.
But today... nothing. No turns, no big drops, no barrels. Just frustration and rip currents and close outs. I call it a day within an hour, and catch a belly ride in. I walk further south to where Matt is sitting, whistle, and wave at him. He waves back.
Mahalos Mother Ocean!!
It was a little frust for everyone that day, and yeah . . . surfing with Randy always makes me want to push harder. I'll never forget that day, the day of infamy.
ReplyDeletewe notched some good "local card" points on these days. maybe it's our ego, but heck, it's what we love to do.
Deleteand Randy is just gnarly