Surf Report: 3-4 feet
Atmosphere: Sunny
Winds: Offshore
Water: warm
1st Sesh:
It's my day off! I convinced my boss to give me Tuesday off instead of Friday or Monday because Tuesday was supposed to be firing. Pat had a campsite down in Carlsbad so I wanted to go visit him too. I convinced Matt to come down with me, and he obliged.
We leave LA around 600 AM. I say around 600 AM because Donny Duckbutter likes to leave right on the dot, and I was (and always will be) late to the party.
We make our way down to Carlsbad, and call Patricio. He's got a camp site with a few of his buddies. We bypass the parking lady while a group of people are lined up to pay for parking. Suckers.
We veer straight and go down the lines of RV's parked on the cliffs. It's tranquil and quiet still, and most of the campsites are deserted. We admire the campsites as we look for Pat's campsite. Campsite 60... Campsite 60...?
We reach the end of the lot. Damn, we made a wrong turn from the entrance. We swing around and head back.
We drive back, and the parking lady is opening her booth. She says that we have to pay $15. We say we're just checking out the surf first, and she gives us a temporary parking permit. We drive down to Campsite 60.
Patricio welcomes us with open arms. We park right by a HUGE RV camper. Like, fucking LUXURIOUS camper. He tells us that we need to pay the $15, so we head back once again.
Back at the booth, we're waiting behind a few guys. They are surfers - we can tell from their tans and sun bleached hair. I offer to pay the $15 since DD drove us all the way down here. We pay, and a guy behind us shouts aloud: "Hey, you guys going to 60? Can I get a ride with you guys?"
His name is Yantz, and he is traveling from Germany. I was apprehensive, but DD says yes without hesitation.
Whoa, nice gesture, I thought to myself.
Yantz is traveling with his family during his 36 day vacation. Germans get 30 days of vacation guaranteed by the government each year, and 36 days if you actually work. Holy shit!! Americans work way too much.
So we drop him off at our campsite, and he walks to his campsite, #66.
"The waves look fun!" I say.
Chad, one of Pat's buddies, has been SUPping and said he got a few good ones. We take a tour of his luxurious camper, and we get dressed.
DD is all over the place. He's changing, and then he's not. He's applying sunscreen, and then fiddling with his keys. He's switching fins, and then switching boards. I watch him just run around every where in his own space. He finally locks his car, and then forgets to get something out. He lets out a loud ARRRGGHHH and unlocks the car again. I laugh, telling him to calm his ass down.
"We're here for the whole day man," I remind him.
We trek down the stairs and onto the sand. I have my Neckbeard in hand, and Matt has his fish. The waves look playful and clean this morning. Hopefully it stays good!
Matt hits the water before I do, and I see him catch a small left. Nothing special, just a warm up wave.
The morning is mellow, and we surf away from the stairs. We have our own little peak right here.
Todd is on his longboard. He's a former football player, and I've met him at Mel's house before. Pat and I yell at him to pull in, and he grabs rail and pulls in. We all cheer him.
Pete is here too! He gets some good rights, even pulling in on one.
I meet Jamie, who was in line with us at the parking permit booth.
Matt decides to switch boards, even though he got a two turn wave on his backhand. SPLAAAASH, pump pump, SPLASH.
Pat is on his Average Joe, and keeps hitting the lip on it. Damn, he's good. Hope I'm surfing like that in my 40's.
I get my wave of the day on a right hander with my leash wrapped around my front foot. I get the drop, pump, bottom turn, and carve a cutback into the pocket. I pump more, and then do a soft finisher chip on the lip. I wish my leash hadn't wrapped around my front foot. So awkward!
The winds start blowing hard on shore. The shape is going to shit. I struggle to catch a good ride in. Matt and Jamie venture to the stairs. I can barely see them.
Finally, a good wave comes in and I'm able to pump all down the face a few times before it closes out. I do a floater and land it. The key is to throw your hands up! I learned that from YouTube. Yew!
Not a bad way to start off the day...
Mahalos Mother Ocean!
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