Cheryl's Wave of the Day 073011 Part 2

Surf Report:  Cleaning up, mushy 3 footers

Water: Unknown

Winds: Trade winds

Atmosphere: Sunny

I didn’t feel like surfing for the rest of the day.  I was bummed that I got skunked.  I reflected on the whole morning for the rest of the day.

Matt, Lauren, Cheryl, and Christina were all sitting on the picnic bench when I walked towards the car.  They too were skunked, and didn’t seem to be too stoked either.  We talked about our experiences this morning, and Matt was set on just “fucking around” later at Churches.  I told him I was finished for the day.  Usually, it’s the other way around, where I would be going out for an afternoon session, and he would be finished. 

Lauren, Christina, and Cheryl decided to lay out.  Matt set up an umbrella for Lauren, and all was well under the hot, blazing sun.

Matt pitching a tent.. err umbrella

Dais and Khang were doing a marathon session.  I didn’t see them come out until Matt started to get back in his wetsuit.  They drifted all the way down towards the entrance of the parking lot, and walked back to our spot.  Cheryl and Christina were giving it another go with Matt, and paddled out soon after Khang and Dais came back in. 

“I was a flea amongst the top dawgs,” I told Dais and Khang.

Usually, it’s the Ocean that puts me in place.  She chops down my ego before you can say, “Oh shit.”  But today, it was the other surfers who put me in place.  They weren’t aggro or mean or surf nazi’s.  They were just that much better.  They knew where to sit, where to paddle, where to take off, and hack the shit out of the lip.  It was a huge slice of humble pie dealt to my face from all the surfers from here.  It wasn’t that my skills were lacking, for if that was an empty line up, I would have had a wave buffet. 

Khang and Dais

Matt reiterated that it was our mentality.  We surf mellow spots, where we get our fair share of waves.  Even the locals would give us waves at most spots we surf.  Trestles, was another matter in itself.  We just had to put our heads down and gun for the wave.  If we snaked them, oh well.  Kick out of the wave.  It is a spot unlike any other place I have surfed, and I checked myself.  Chiggity check yourself before you reck yourself. 

Khang, Dais and I joked that Matt was going to paddle all the way to Lowers because he kept paddling further and further north as he grew disgruntled by the wave choice at Churches.  It was easy to spot him with the white wetsuit, but his body language read FRUSTRATION all over it.  I put my hat over my face and tried to sleep under the tree. 

The Sun, doing his job

I tried to sleep under the blazing sun.  I just wanted to rest a little bit. 

“Oh shit! Cheryl!!!!” said Khang.

I got up and looked out.  Cheryl took off on a two foot right that was peeling perfectly.  She was looking down the line with a huge smile on her face, and sliding down the face of the wave.  The wave seemed endless until the inside, where it closed out and she jumped off.  We all whistled and hooted her for that ride.  It was probably the longest ride out of all of us that whole day. 

Lauren and I talked about crows feet and laugh lines (or frown lines, if you're a pessimist.)  I told her that people get crows feet when they smile too much.  She added that wrinkles appear around your mouth, creating laugh lines too.

"I'll trade smiles for wrinkles any day!" she said. 


SOOOO CHEEEESEY.  If I was lactose intolerant, I would have diarrhea and farts from that line.  LOL!!

So all in all, we did get skunked going to Trestles.  This is by far, the first time we’ve been skunked.  Even when we knew it was only 1 foot and terrible, we still got waves.  But today, it was supposedly a good swell, and it was, but only for Lowers.  Lowers is a magnet for a south swell.  Any little push out of the southern hemisphere will produce waves.  But, the surfers put me in check.  I was humbled by this experience today.  I vow to appreciate Trestles more than ever, since we’ve always scored going there, except for today.  And god damn it, bring your damn wetsuit next time. 

Mahalos Mother Ocean.