Hitting the Wall Once More 082811

Surf Report: 1-3 feet and dying

Water: Colder than yesterday, but boardies did fine

Winds: On shore the whole morning

Atmosphere: Sunny once more….

I woke up early this morning.  I actually slept pretty much all day yesterday after the birthday party.  The party had all sorts of food, including fried chicken, kalbi, a huge steamed salmon, Chinese chicken salad, rice rolls, asparagus, fried dumplings, rice, three kinds of beer, cup cakes, and two kinds of cake.  We even played bingo with everyone who came to Masada-san’s 93^rd birthday party.  Afterwards, I had to take a nap before making some good ol’ chili.  After that, I knocked out on the floor around 10. 

I woke up this morning a few times but finally got out of bed a little before 600.  I started doing my yoga stretches when Matt texts me that he’s already there, and so is Francis.  I wasn’t about to let these two jokesters get waves without me, so I headed out as soon as I could. 

The early bird gets the worm.  I score free parking on the corner of Highland and 26^th Street.  Lucky me!  I get changed and walk down the slope.  I see Francis and Matts’ cars parked behind each other.  I walk down the sand and see a figure on the wave.  Immediately I can tell it was Matt.  I may not be able to see his face, but I can tell his style from far away. 

This girl on the beach watching the surfers turns back to look at me, then watches the waves.  I do my stretching and by the time I’m done, she walks up to me and says, “Hey, are you Clyde?”

“No, I’m Klaude.”

“Oh, my brother and Matt told me that you’re coming out, and you’re supposed to roll out with a bunch of Japanese people?  Where’s your crew?”

“Um, no crew today,” I said.  “Those fuckers…” I mumbled. 

“Huh?”

“Oh, no nothing, they’re just joking around.  Oh so there should be a Viet Namese guy coming out, but he doesn’t look very Viet Namese… He looks…”

“Pretty dark?”

“No, he looks Mexican, or white.  So look out for him too yea?  Tell him we’re out there too.”

I paddled out to the line up to find Matt and Francis.  They were already catching their fair share of waves. 

Matt told me that he might of pushed his shoulder a little too much yesterday.  He’s trying to take it a bit easier today.  The WHC were out in full force today, with John taking some photos.  Matt said if I wanted some photos taken, then I should go surf with them.  I didn’t really feel like competing with some semi-pros while I’m still a barney, so I opted not to. 

Francis was on fire once again.  He took a right off of me as I chased him through the white water.  I was no match to his speed.  He bottom turned, and then did a layback carve to end the ride.  But, he landed on one of our friends, Orlando, aka Rastaman. 

Rastaman paddle by later chuckling, “Hey!  Como estas?  Your friend almost gave me a hair cut right there!”

Francis took this left where he was able to bottom turn deep into the face, and stuck one of his heal side fin out above the lip.  He made the turn and back out to the flats, where he belly rode back to the flats and paddled back out, only to take a left that swung his way and butt drag on the face to stall.  He had to leave early since his sister was just chilling on the beach, and he wanted to take her out to some breakfast.  

Matt and I were the barneys and were doing stupid things.  I snaked Matt on a left and fell.  Matt snaked me on a right and turned into my board.  We both laughed it off, since we were just acting like little kids in the water.

Christina made it out!  She was on her foamie again, which was the vehicle of choice.  She caught a lot of waves again.  She put her head down on a few and snaked the other foamie, but it was all good since she got on the face and was off to the races.  There was no way the other foamie was going to catch up to her. 

Dave came out too.  He caught three waves in a row, flying down the line.  He took a right where he grabbed rail, let go, and just flew down the line onto the face until he jumped off.  He took a left too, taking it all the way to shore.  I honestly have not seen Dave catch this many waves ever.  He caught more waves in the last two days than in any of the days combined that I’ve surfed with him. 

Matt introduces us to one of the Westside Hurley Crew (WHC) Chris.  We also saw Manny take off on a wave, as they were on their way out of the water. 

I didn’t really have many memorable rides today.  I seemed to have hit another wall in my surf.  Is it mental?  I feel it is mental, since I’m not reminding myself to do the things I used to remind myself to do.  I caught myself not doing the fish wiggle when paddling for a wave, not putting my head down (thanks Matt for reminding me, sorry I didn’t listen to you in the line up), not surfing off my back foot, and being distracted in the line up.  I need to somehow get my head back in the water and focus.  I’m not sure how I’m going to do that, but I have a week to do so.  Let’s try to let go of all control and Just Enjoy The Surf.  Hopefully I can break through this wall and overcome this slump.

Regardless, it was a super amazing day of surf.  I was glad I got to surf with the “soul” of the DRC, and that everyone caught a lot of waves.  It was crazy!!  I can’t believe how many waves Christina and Dave caught.  Damn longboarders…

I pushed Dave into a wave, where a guy was already smashing down the line.  Matt told Dave, “Watch out!” and Dave pulled out at the last minute.  I felt bad for pushing him into a wave where it put Dave and that other surfer into danger.  I was glad Matt was there to watch over our fellow members.

The line up was crowded once more.  It wasn’t as crowded as yesterday, but man, towards the end all I saw were faces bobbing up and down behind me.  I couldn’t get a solid ride at all. Bruce was getting wave after wave, and Uncle Miles was on a few good ones too.  All the longboarders had amazing days of surf.  I could tell by their high wave count (that includes you too, Christina and Dave.)

Dave and I hooted Damon into a few waves as he took them all the way to shore.  He said he was stiff from yesterday, but he sure was catching a lot of waves today. 

I took one last wave in.  It wasn’t a clean wave or anything, but it was a wave.  Christina was already out and soaking in some sun.  I waited for Dave, and so I started to body surf a little bit.  I caught a few nice waves getting out on the face before being gobbled up the sand washed white water. 

We all said our goodbyes and parted ways.

Matt was off to Disneyland to buy us all churros.  And spend some time with Lauren at Disneyland.

Christina stayed on the beach for a few minutes to “soak in the atmosphere.”

Dave had to go shopping for a dress shirt for a high school buddy’s wedding.

And I skated down to the pier to check out the volleyball tournament.  Nothing was going on yet.  Oh well.  At least I got a few hours of surf in and some skating too.

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!  I will try to shake this funk out of me by the time I see you again on the weekend.