Ua Mau ke Ea o ka ʻĀina i ka Pono - Ala Moana Bowls 062312

0.5 – 1 feet

Off shore

Sunny

Cool water

Surf session with Kilty!!  I woke up at 700 AM and texted Kilty if she was down to surf before I left.  She answered that she was down, and offered to pick me up and drive us to Town.

It was another low tide day.  On the paddle out, I felt the reef on my hands.  I grabbed the reef while paddling.  When we got out to the line up, the place was infested with longboarders and people learning from lessons conducted by local Hwaiians.  It was a bit kloudy when we left, and so Kilty said, “I hope that the sun comes out…” as she smiled.

And just like that, the sun came out.

Kilty is a good surfer from Kaneohe.  I met her through a mutual friend back in LA while she was attending UCLA.  Today, she would take waves all the way to the inside and paddle back out, only to take another wave all the way in.

It was not such a great day for shortboarding, but I was able to get a few waves under my belt.  No turns, just pumping and chop hopping.  Still, I was stoked, and happy to be spending my last hours in Hawaii in the water. 

Ala Moana Bowls is a left that peels perfectly.  The legend Gerry Lopez honed his barrel riding skills at this very spot.  I can see how on a bigger day this place would be firing, but today was just a small day for surf. 

The water was so clear and the lulls were long, so I went diving.  I could see the coral breathing in and out, swaying with every wave.  I wish we had goggles on to see what was under here.  Kilty even said she had found a Nixon watch under water.  During a lull, I was diving, staring at the corals.  I resurfaced to find a small bump forming ahead of me.  I scramble to get on my board and awkwardly paddle for the wave to no avail.  Kilty laughs at my goofy nature and I laugh back. 

A word of advice: Don’t go right at Bowls.  This place is not like Kewalos, where the right is sort of makeable.  The right here is down right unmakeable.  I went for a right, and as soon as I popped up, I knew I was in trouble.  I could see the cry reef ahead o fme as the white water crumbled behind me.  I tried to casually kick out but the wave just kept taking me across the reef.  I felt an initial kiss on my back.  I felt my feet getting dragged on the reef.  And then I felt my elbow get thrashed by the reef.  I had to stand on the reef and wait for a few waves to pass before walking on the reef and walk out to the channel in order to paddle out.  Kilty was smiling at me as I made my paddle back out. 

“I guess I shouldn’t go right here huh?” I said.  She laughed at me.

As we sat, Kilty tells me a joke: “What did the spam tell the rice?” 

“Hmm, I don’t know.  What?”

“Let’s get nori (naughty)!”

I laughed out loud at that joke.  And then I laughed a little more thinking of caricatures of a piece of spam and some rice, getting together and getting naughty with nori. 

Kilty suggested we paddle across the reef to a right that was less crowded.  It was a spot called Rockpiles Rights, and it wasn’t as crowded as Bowls, but there was a definite hierarchy.  The Uncles took the best waves, all the time.  Kilty got two good rides, taking them all the way to the inside.  Must be that Hawaiian blood that flows so vigorously inside of her. 

She was trying to encourage me into waves, but it seemed the waves were not cooperating.  Our time in the water was running low.

We decided to paddle in.  I was convinced that we were around Kaiser’s and that we could paddle through the boat channel, as Fransauce and I did a few days ago. I paddled a little wide to the right, thinking to myself, “Where are the buoys showing the boat channel?”

Well bubba, there ain’t no buoys, since there ain’t no channel, since you ain’t at Kaisers! 

I feel my fins hit the reef.  OH FUCK.  Kilty looks back at me, probably wondering why I didn’t follow her into the channel.  She points to my left. 

Health Bar Acai Bowl! Delicious

I had to walk on the reef for a few minutes in order to get into the channel.  I received more Hawaiian kisses on my body.  I had to laugh, since it felt like the most fitting way to say “A hui hou” (see you again) to Hawaii.

Kilty drove me back to the Dojo as Lauren Hill’s voice seeped through her speakers.  We said our “see you laters” and parted. 

If you don’t already know, I missed my flight home that day.  I felt that me missing my flight was meant to be.  There were a lot of factors leading up to me missing my flight:  the juicer at the Health Bar breaking down while B-Sauce and I waited for a light snack before I departed, or the cones blocking off two lanes on the H-1, or me getting lost to find the rental car return place.  All of it happened for a reason.  Perhaps I was meant to stay in Hawaii a little bit longer?  Sitting in the airport for close to eight and a half hours, I was able to contemplate my trip to Hawaii this time around.  I reflected on all the people I met, the food I ate, the Aloha spirit I received and gave, and the overall joy I felt being in the land of Hawaii.  I was pretty bummed I was leaving this land, that I wasn’t going to see my friends every day anymore… that Fransauce was no longer going to be in LA when I return.

25 side orders of Garlic Chicken - gone within 30 hours

But I stopped feeling bummed as quickly as I started.  For all I have to do is come to the land of Aloha by perpetuating the Aloha wherever I go.  I have to have the Fransauce factor: Cool, Calm, and Collected, under any situation.  And that bright smile too.

Surfing wise, I learned a lot about paddling, positioning, duck diving, and riding the wave, not the board.  When I paddle for a wave, I have to position myself in the most uncomfortable place on the wave, right where the wave breaks.  In my head, that is most uncomfortable because it is the most consequential, but I have to get over that.  I started to do that half way through the trip, and it was working.  We will see how far I can take this plateau.  

Ala Moana Bowls Kiss <3

I’ve also concluded that in order to reach certain goals in my life, I need to move to Hawaii.  I don’t know how or when this is going to happen, but I would want my family to be raised in the Aloha way, where caring about others and cooperating and giving is championed, not punished.  On top of that, I really don’t see how else I’m going to start getting set waves in Hawaiian waters unless I start living here and going to the same spot every day, all day.  I definitely have to move here. 

Finally, Ua Mau ke Ea o ka ʻĀina i ka Pono is the Hawaii state motto, which roughly translates to English, “The life of the land is perpetuated in righteousness.”  No matter how many highways or condominiums are built in this modern day, the Hawaiian spirit will always be alive and well, perpetuated by the land and the people.  You just have to live the Hawaiian way.

Mahalos Mother Ocean.  Mahalos to all the OG Dojo members and their friends.  And Mahalos to the Land of Hawaii.  A hui hou!!!  

Ua Mau ke Ea o ka ʻĀina i ka Pono - Diamondhead & Sandy's 062212

0.5 – 1 feet

Warm water

Trade winds

Sunny

Diamondhead <3

After a successful BBQ at the Dojo, I woke up pretty late around 8.  There were people who slept over, still sleeping on the couch.  I took my time doing yoga and rehydrating.  Jillee comes to the living room, looking a bit sluggish, and asks for the time.  She passed out last night around 830 PM.  Fransauce had to work today, so it was going to be a solo session for me.  Fransauce texted me the surf report for Diamondhead.  I guess he looked at the surf before going to work.  It read, “Bruh, here’s ur diamondhead surf report.  1-3 ft face.  Inconsistent sets, winds are light now.  Have a fun surf day.  Wish I could be out there.”

I figure I could go check out Diamondhead and if it didn’t look good, I could go to Kaisers or Kewalos.  I pull up to Diamondhead to a kloudy morning.  The longobarders were getting good waves, and some shortboarders were getting some good rides too.  I made the call to surf here, since it didn’t seem so bad.  I make the trek down the donkey trail.  My feet are now used to the trai, and I made it down in record time.

The Donkey Trail

The reef was exposed by the time I paddled out.  I’ve seen the tide lower here before, so I wasn’t too worried.  The paddle out was smooth.  There were a lot of wahine’s surfing today – from longboarding and shortboarding, girls in cute bikinis, to being covered up from head to hips.  They always have a cute bikini bottom. 

Right off the bat, I got a wave to my self.  It was a small one foot wave, but it felt good to get one under my belt.

My anus felt a small tickling sensation.  I sat in the water, staying away from any of the local boys (there was only one stand out local today) and then another set wave comes my way.  I take it as far as I can and feel super stoked. 

And the anus gets a stronger, tingling sensation now.  I knew this feeling.  I’ve had it before.  I need to poop!!  But man, the waves are good…

I figure, okay, just try not to poop, but clean your butt cheeks when you bottom turn.  Next wave swings in, and I get a nice bottom turn and a top turn.  It’s unlike any top turn I’ve done before – staying low in my stance and keeping control of the board.  I wasn’t riding the board, I was riding the wave.  Stoked about this wave, I start to paddle back out.  But I really need to poop. 

I look around… not too many people… NO!! This is Hawaii.  These are sacred grounds.  This is not El Porto!  Don’t poop in these waters… but thee waves are good, what are you going to do?  The more I wait, the more the turtle popped his head in and out. 

I geet another wave to do a back side turn on.  I couldn’t believe my luck and plight.  I had heaven in hell, all in one.  I was a wave magnet, but I really needed to get out of the water and poop.

I was in the impact zone, and made the call.  I pulled down my boardshorts past my butt hole.  I put both knees to my chest, and let out one, big push.  The shit just flowed out of my ass like a volcano erupting upside down.  If you didn’t know, shit floats.  As a sigh of releft came out I quickly realized there was orange-brown turnds flowering around me like a full blossomed chrysanthemum.  Immediately, I pull my boardshorts back up, hold my breath as not to inhale any water, treat water, get back on my board, and paddle away from the scene of the crime.  I just hoped no one would paddle there. 

And just like that, I felt the waves avoiding me.  The waves started swinging wider from where I sat.  the tide was getting lower and lower, so the waves were getting better.  But it felt like She was avoiding me.  I am so sorry, Mother Ocean.

I paddled in and apologized to Mother Ocean.  There was a TV crew filming a few teens on the beach.  A lifeguard was there too, and I asked him what the TV crew was for.  Turns out these kids are from Ireland, and have come to surf.  The lifeguard laughdd, saying that the kids thought it was a big day in Hawaii.  He asked if I had fun.  I told him I had blast. 

I was surprised the waves were actually good! Just goes to show you have to paddle out to see if the waves are any good.

Sandy’s Session:

Blaine, Jillee, B-Sauce and I eat at W&M Teriyaki Burger, where we scarf down a very tastey burger, an order of fries, and a “root beer float”, B-Sauce style.  This place has been family run for over forty years now, and is definitely a go to spot for a tasty burger.  We four headed to Sandy’s after our meal.

Root Beer Float, B-Sauce Style

It was the perfect beach weather since the sun came out.  Aloha Friday was in full swing.  It was a crowded day at Sandy’s, but it was arguably the best Sandy’s I have seen.  We laid out a beach towel for Jillee, popped open the cooler full of Miller Lites (“blue soda”) and headed into the water.  B-Sauce was feeling the vibe, and slipped into his pidgin.

“Ho brah, choo wanna borrow da fin cuh?” he asked me.

“Uh, yes please,” I answered.

It was about two feet, and super fun!  Even I, a novice body surfer, was able to get on the wave face.

W&M Burger with fries

B-Sauce had two stand-out waves.  One was a right, where he did a body roll on the take off, and took the wave to shore.  Another one as a set wave, where two body boarders were out of position.  The first guy tried to get in but couldn’t, and the same went for the second guy.  B-Sauce was in prime position, and paddled for the wave.  He was high in the lip, and seemed to be stalling.  And then, as he passed my line of sight, he dropped in to the wave super fast and just took off.  He looked like he went warp speed on that wave.   He ended up in the shore pound, smiling from ear to ear.

We laid out on the sand for a while, watching the other body boarders and body surfers.  We would hoot ooh’s and aah’s and whistle for the sets that came through. 

The legendary Taryn came out too!  I have heard stories of this girl and her barrel riding.  She was a bit embarrassed when I told her this.  I think she was being modest, since as soon as she hit the water, she got a nice left, getting barreled.  Man, I sorta came in my boardies seeing that.  Jillee, Blaine, and B-Sauce clowned on me, asking if I needed a moment alone.  She checked her bikini, and headed right ack out to the line up.  She commandeered a yellow body board, and I saw her pull into a nice barrel again!  The tales of the legendary Taryn were true!  I was glad I got to meet her.

We packed up our stuff and head back to the Dojo.  If I pushed it, we could have surfed a third session today, but I felt like we had a complete day already, and no need to push, push, and push. 

Uni (Sea Urchin) Risotto

Da OG members of the Dojo (minus Alex) and I grabbed dinner at Tokkuritei, and some drinks at Uncle Bo’s.  Tokkuri Tei is a Japanese style restaurant that has a huge menu.  We ordered a storm of food and drinks, with one of the highlights being Uni Risotto.  Everything was delicious, and to complete the meal, we got some sushi at the end.  The chef put some lemon zest as a finisher on the sushi, where we got Ahi, Hamachi, catch of the day white fish, Salmon, and Mackerel. 

We stop by South Street Inn for more drinks.  We see the manager outside, and B-Sauce introduces us.  I tell her how I love the Peanut Butter Cup dessert, and she asks if I wanted it.  Being modest, I say no, it's ok.  She looks at me, and says, "No, if you want it, I can make it, don't be shy.  Justin, if your friend wants it, tell him to just say it."  So I said, "Sure, I'll have it."  The kitchen was closed already, but she went to the back, warmed me up a piece, threw some ice cream on top with chocolate syrup, and brought it out for me.  She totally did not have to do this, but you know what?  This is the Aloha Spirit alive and well my friend.  This simple action is exactly what people talk about when they speak of Hawaii.  It’s my last night in Hawaii, and I couldn’t have asked for a more amazing day. 

Sushi

 

Peanut Butter Cup

Mahalos Mother Ocean!

Ua Mau ke Ea o ka ʻĀina i ka Pono - Cromwell's 062112

1-2+ feet

Warm/cool water

Sunny

Trade winds

Fransauce, pre surf MW3

We surfed Cromwell’s this day.  Cromwell’s is located east of Diamondhead, and is known for a rock you can jump off from into a deep tide pool.  This spot is nextled in between multi million dollar houses.  There is a staircase that leads down to a beach area with exposed dead coral for footing.  There was a tent set up on the coral, and a few more people making their way out to the other parts of the beach, perhaps to lay out, eat, drink or smoke pakalolo. 

There is a lagoon area where there is sand and small fish swimming.  In the middle of the lagoon area, there is a small rock island that one can observe small fish, swimming around in the pool.  A girl in a green bikini top and her boyfriend were on the small island when we paddled out.

Fransauce led the way, since there was a distinct channel that we needed to paddle through.  We had to paddle right beside the rocks, and then straight out into the ocean.  Fransauce told me how in his “waterman” days, he would paddle from here to Diamondhead on a longboard, catch a few waves, and then paddle back or walk back to Cromwell’s.  Going to Diamondhead was easier, he said, since the trade winds would push him to Diamondhead.  It was the paddle back to Cromwell’s that was killer. 

So we are paddling through choppy waters towards the line up.  We paddle out straight, since there are multiple peaks.  Cromwell’s is an open ocean break, where the waves hit a big reef and peel both lefts and rights.  The waves here had a lot of power.  The size was 2 feet+ Hawaiian scale.  The sets were somewhat unpredictable, and cleaned the line up like a steam roller.  The plus side of this spot was that nobody was out.  We had the line up all to ourselves, plus one other dude.  The waves were not “good” but it was nice to finally be isolated from all the people: the Uncles, the Locals, the Boys, the Wahines, all of them.  It was just us and the raw, open ocean. 

I caught half a wave today.  I say only ½ since the wave I actually caught was so unpredictably powerful and strong that I accidently kicked out of the wave.  It was a really nice left, but I was not prepared for how much speed and power was on this wave.  Right when I popped up, my feet felt the G-forces and my board felt like a rocket ship.  Before I knew it, I had kicked out of the wave.

Fransauce was killing it in these conditions.  He caught a handful of waves, taking them far inside.  He took both lefts and rights, but the rights were opening up for him a lot more.  The trade winds made the rights harder to ride since the winds blew at you, and your board would lift up on the take off.

The wipe outs here were pretty forgiving for the power of the waves.  I had a few “bad positioning” wipe outs where I was too deep on the wave, and got pitched over, but the wave didn’t really pound me onto the reef.  I mostly rolled underwater and got let go once the wave passed.

I started working the inside waves more.  I got some quick rides in the first few minutes sitting on the inside.  But the waves just shut down after these few quick rides.  “No more small waves for you, brah,” said the Ocean.

So, I move towards, Fransauce.  Just when I thought the waves shut down, the clean up set comes in.  We both get pounded further and further in.  After about five minutes of being bullied by the Ocean, we call it a day.

Fransauce guides me back to the channel, pointing over a group of people jumping off the rock.  We finally get back to the sandy lagoon, and walk out.

Ono's Hawaiian Seafood - Tako & Ahi Shoyu Poke

Once I look back at the line up, it looks like a far, far away land that I imagined surfing.  It didn’t feel like I was actually there, surfing and eating shit.  It felt mostly like a day dream, where the water was clear blue, the reef stared blankly back at you, and the winds were howling trade winds.

More people were on the beach, planning for a day of fun in the sun.  I had a lot of fun because there was no body at this surf spot today.  It was just the waves, Frsanauce, and myself.  I couldn’t have asked for a more perfect day.

We grab some Ono Hawaiian Seafood for post surf grinds.  This place used to only have two parking spots, but they tore down the Shell station next to it, so that lot is empty and allows for anyone to park there.  They used to only have two or three kinds of poke, but now they have eight kines.  They used to not have a cash register either.  Nor a menu.  And it used to be around $5 for a poke bowl and soda.  Now, it’s kind of popular and people are catching on, and so it’s a few dollars more, but still worth it. 

Shizzle's Sliders

This day was also the Dojo’s BBQ day, hosted by the members of the Dojo, including myself.  We had a wonderful array of food, including Shizzle’s amazing sliders, Seth’s stuffed jalapeno cream cheese crab cakes wrapped in bacon (I failed to secure a photo), lots of beef kalbi and tongue, and B-Sauce’s BBQ chicken, which was hands down the best of the best. 

Shizzles, double fisting, and B-Sauce, trolling

With plenty of beer going around, most people passed out by 900 PM.  Da Boys of the Dojo stayed up, pacing themselves with the beers.  Getting the BBQ pit was an adventure, since the grill’s propane was leaking, we had to wing it out with two small BBQ pits.  I think it worked out perfectly for the whole night. 

And like all great BBQ’s the clean up was most important.  We cleaned up the house as if nothing had ever happened at all.  And shame on those who sand-bagged all that beer!!  What a waste!

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!

Ua Mau ke Ea o ka ʻĀina i ka Pono - Kewalos 062012

1-2 feet

warm water

Flies

Off shore

Sunny

I woke up at 600 AM to wake up Fransauce.  After a papaya and lychee for breakfast, he drove us first to Diamondhead.  The waves were blown out by the wind.  It was a strong trade wind but there was only one peak working, and that spot was infested by longboarders.  So, we head into Town!

 We go to park in front of a place called Flies, right next to Point Panic, a world famous body surfing spot.  Flies was a wave that broke pretty close to shore, and there were a few surfers out in front.  There was only one body surfer out at Point Panic, and he was taking waves for about 15-20 yards.

Kewalos is a spot accessible by two points: one by jumping off the rocks east into Kewalos Basin, which was where we went two days ago, and another is by climbing down slippery stairs into the water west of Kewalo basin.  Today, we entered through the stairs of Kewalo Basin.  Fransauce made the trek down and then I made my way down.  I slipped on the rocks and my leg got wedged in between the rocks.  Of all places, I slip on the easiest paddle out. 

Kewalos is a left, but there is a right if you’re willing to go over shallow reef.  There was a big tree that marked the take-off spot, and all the locals lined up there.  There were some nice inside waves that others were tearing up. 

There were definite “local boys” out there, and one “uncle.”  These guys always caught the set waves.  They knew exactly how long to wait for the sets, which wave to go for, and how to tear it up.

I didn’t catch one set wave because of these guys.  And truth be told, a surf spot as famous and as good as Kewalos should have a hierarchy like this, where the Uncles and locals get first pick and visitors get the scraps.

All morning, I could feel the energy was a little off with Fransauce.  He was stressing over his Fire Department test on Saturday, and it was pretty obvious his mind was elsewhere.  I appreciate him surfing with me during this time, but he seemed really troubled and unhappy.  Half way through the session, Fransauce tells me he is going in.  He tells me to take my time and that he will be waiting for me at the parking lot where we parked. 

So here I was, at the world famous Kewalos, all by myself.  It was a peaceful session for the most part.  I had a left that I snaked Fransauce on, but he couldn’t make the section so I guess it was ok.  I got to the face and did a small cut back on the white water section ahead of me.

I wish I had gotten one of those sets, but it was impossible to catch a wave here with the local boys in the water.  They must surf Kewalos every day, all day.  Fransauce advised me to be careful if I go right since I will be suffing on shallow reef.  But it seemed that these were the only waves I was allotted by the locals. 

Even when I sat behind the Uncle in the white Hurley rash guard and the local boy with a black shirt, I couldn’t catch any of the sets since they were taking weave #1 and wave #2 of the set.  Since it was a 3 wave set, every body else was left out the back to scratch for the third and final wave. 

I sat next to a surfer who looked like Fransauce.  He had long hair, dark skin, and a huge, bright smile.  He and I split the peak twice on the inside, where I went right and he went left. 

On the first of the rights, I saw a huge warp the wave.  The wave jacks up right there, and I get pitched from the jump.  I can tell the reef is right there, and for some reason, I decide to grab on the rock.  I felt my fingers get grated on the rocks as I held on until the white water washed over.  I felt my feet and knees get dragged on the reef as well.  Well, no time to look at my cuts, but I know I’m cut up, that’s for sure.  I had to paddle towards the Kewalos basin and back out to the line up.

Two cute Japanese girls were surfing too.  They too were locals, and knew all the other locals in the water.  They were no dunsky’s; they were good surfers. 

There was on e dude that I felt did not belong in the water.  He was a white dude, and sat outside the peak.  But he would paddle for some sets that swung wide, and some waves where a guy was already riding  them.  Maybe he was hoping they would fall and he could sneak a snake on them.  Who knows. 

After three hours in the water, I decided to paddle back in.  Fransauce was waiting patiently for me in the lot.  It was another fun session in Hawaii, and I got to surf a world famous spot! 

Kua 'Aina burgers

After surf, we eat at Kua ‘Aina, a burger spot.  I got the pineapple burger with fries, and Fransauce got a cheeseburger with fries.  It’s been months since my last burger, and boy was it tastey.  But, I could feel my stomach telling me, “I don’t like what you just put in here…. You’re gonna pay for this…!”  Whatever, I’m on vacay.

Ok, so not whatever.  I actually made conscious efforts to eat a little more healthy throughout the rest of the day.  I dragged B-Sauce to Ala Moana mall to do some shopping, and we went to Goma Tei, a noodle joint.  He raved about the vegetarian cold noodles.  It was a choice between Korean cold noodles, and Goma Tei, located in the mall, so I made the call that we should just go to Goma Tei.  It was very refreshing, and extremely filling.  You could pour on the sauce, which was sesame and miso base, all over the noodles, or eat them like tsuke-men, where you dip the noodles into the sauce.  That meal was a satisfying meal for any hot summer day.  On top of that, my stomach was happy to welcome some much-needed veggies back inside of me.  Who would have thought vegetables and noodles could fill you up so much?

We go off to a Korean market later to take care of some shopping for the BBQ Thursday night. 

Goma Tei's Vegetarian Cold Noodles

That night, Shizzles came home, so he and I decided to eat at Hale Viet Nam restaurant right up the street.  We had to park in this lot where you pay $0.75 for parking.  A welcomed sight as opposed to paying a minimum $3 in LA. 

Imperial Rolls - YUMMMMM

Pho Ga with Tendon

We ordered fried Imperial rolls, a beer, and Pho.  The fried Imperial rolls were so delicious!!  The taste of the rolls with the sauce and the pickles was amazing.  The Pho had great broth, and warmed my soul.  This isn’t necessarily “Hawaiian” but it was delicious nonetheless.  We sat and ate a total of twenty minutes, and we were out of there.  Straight up grind session!!

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!!

Ua Mau ke Ea o ka ʻĀina i ka Pono - Concessions and Tennis Courts 061912

0.5 - 2 feet
Off shore winds
Slightly Kloudy
Warm water

I slept early Monday night at 930 PM on purpose so that I didn't have to go out that night.  B-sauce was raving about some sort of industry night and half off drinks.  I didn't plan on taking part of any of that.  i just wanted to sleep and go surf.  But if you haven't found out, things never go "as planned."

I was awakened two hours later at 1130 PM with Bsauce and Kuulei laughing and joking.  They were getting ready to go out to Industry Night at Lulu's.  Since it was Monday night, all the restaurant people were off, and it was their time to party.  After refusing to go out, and even flipping a coin (two out of three times it landed on tails, which means "tail back home") B-sauce's shit talking took a toll, and I decided on going out.  Shiet, I'm on vacay right?  Might as well.  And if anyone is going to convince you to go out, it would be B-Sauce.

We ended up coming home around 500 AM.  I let Fransauce know i couldn't pick him up to go to the Outrigger Country Club where he had to fill out a job application via text.  I felt bad that I would be flaking on him.

I wake up around 900 AM to find a text from Fransauce.  He took the bus and skated to the OCC.  He will meet me at the Dojo.

We took care of a lot of errands and started our surf session around 430 PM.  Fransauce had to return his rental mo-ped in Town, so we drove into Town to handle that. 



We first decide to go check out Diamondhead.  When we first arrive, the winds are strong trade winds and the waves were small.

Tae's Teppanyaki Chicken Sukiyaki

First day of my trip I couldn't wait to get in the water at Diamondhead.  And now, I complain about the winds being off and the waves are too small.  Shame on me!!

Time to go to Town!  Fransauce takes me through Ala Moana Park and we look at spots from Bowls to Concessions.  We decide to surf at Concessions and Tennis Courts.  There is a lagoon before the reef at this spot.  Ke'iki play in the gentle, calm waters as their parents lay out.  A lot of swimmers were swimming in the lagoon too.  What an amazing "swimming pool" to be swimming in!

The paddle out was long today.  There was a break on the east where long boarders were dominating.  We headed west to where a lot of surfers were.

The spot was a chill spot, with a few dominating guys.  The sets were two footers, Hawaiian scale.  Some in between sets came through that this East Coast transplant kept catching.  These waves were tiny but he was able to read the wave well and surf the small stuff easily.

There were two guys, one goofy, one regular, who dominated this break.  For sure they surfed here every day.  They talked about Carissa Moore surfing Kewalos the day before and how she was tearing it up.  These guys split the peak on almost every wave, or would take the first and second set of the wave and leave us scrambling for scraps.

There was this beautiful surfer chick in a white bikini.  She was pure eye candy for everyone.  I let her go on this clean left where she hacked off the top, making me jizz in my boardshorts.

Fransauce hung out on the inside, catching the smaller reforms.  he was doing his thing efficiently.

I sat on the outside trying to catch the sets.  But there was alway someone on the peak.  I learned today that I have to sit on the peak and catch waves right where they break instead of the shoulder.  The peak is the most uncomfortable spot for me since I have a fear of getting pitched over and drilled, but I learned I have to get over that fear.  I have to put myself in the most uncomfortable position if I wanted to catch any of these waves.

I caught one memorable wave here, which was a right.  It was a small, 1/ 2 foot wave that I pumped down the line.  I was riding the wave, not the board, as Fransauce repeated.  I find myself repeating that mantra in my head constantly now.

We surfed for about 2.5 hours and clued it a day. It was a learning lesson for me on positioning and paddling for waves.  Some guys can two paddle into waves, because they are right where the wave is breaking instead of on the shoulder, just like I saw at Kaisers.

This wave was different from Kaiser's bowling section, as it was more forgiving and mushy.  It was more of a Trestles like wave.  If it was a foot bigger, it would have definitely been more fun.

Zippy's for dinner

Yea, it's unhealthy.. but fuck it, i'm on vacay

The paddle back was daunting, and took a toll on my lower back.  Fransauce and I started free swimming in the lagoon to get back.  We finally make i t back to the beach, and I look back at where we were surfing.  It seemed like a far, far away place that was almost unreal.  I am getting more used to Hawaiian waters.

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!

Ua Mau ke Ea o ka ʻĀina i ka Pono - Kaiser Bowls 061812

1/2 foot to 1 feet
Cool to warm water
Off shore winds
Kloudy morning

The winds have been gusting for the past two days.  Last night the bedroom door of Alex's room kept swinging open and close, then open again.  I had to wear a long sleeve shirt while sleeping to keep me warm from the wind chill.

I awoke around 600 AM and started to dozed in and out of my slumber.  I called Fransauce but he didn't answer.  He calls me back five minutes later, and i can hear his voice coming from the living room.  This funny guy....  I get up to greet him.  He has been at the Dojo for a while now.  He said he didn't want to disturb my slumber when he arrived at the Dojo.  I warm up a glass of water and sip on it.  My anus feels like it's on fire from eating all the good food and shitting out the grease and fat.  I start stretching as Fransauce plays a game of Modern Warfare 3.  Then my stomach starts to gurgle and i could feel the morning lava coming.  i make my way to the bathroom to unleash my fury into the porcelain throne.

Fransauce is enthralled in his game.  I eat 1/2 of a papaya that he brought over.  So delicious!!  I proceed to eat the meat around the seed of a mango, which was a bit sour.  The color of the skin looked ripe, but the fruit was still sour.

There is no rush to go out to surf.  Fransauce and I discuss our plan for the morning surf.  The surf is still small, and is still windy as fuck.  Diamondhead would be strong trade winds, and we discussed last night about checking out spots in Town for surf, so we gather our things and head into Town.

We first check out Ala Moana Bowls, Rock Piles, and Kaisers.  The waves look fun at Bowls, but the rides lok short.  Kaisers look alright too.  I said, "Let's go check out other places like Kewalos and then see what's up."

As we pull out of the parking lot, we see two local girls pointing to Kaisers.  You could tell those girls were locals and probably shred.  They just had that aura about them.

We went to go check out Kewalos.  This parking lot was empty too.  The familiar scene of the rocks along the concrete wall along the water that I've watched on countless Youtube videos came to life.  We could see the waves breakage at Kewalos, but the waves seemed even smaller than Bowls.  we could see Big Rights and Big Lefts from here too.  But they did not live up to their names.

I decided to go back to Kaisers and surf there.  I say "I decided" because Fransauce has been pretty laid back about making choices to where we go surf or eat, since he now lives here and I was the visitor to these lands.  I am constantly reminded of how much I love Hawaii and how beautiful this place is.  A day 10 day vacation is way too short.  It should be a 10 year vacation.

So we head back to Bowls and get ready to paddle out.  We actually decide to paddle out towards Kaisers instead of Bowls.  We have to walk on top of the rocks used as a blockade for wave erosion.  When the waves get big, like that solid ten foot swell last year, the waves go over the blockade.  We get to the end of the rocks and walk into the ocean.  There are a few surfers paddling in from their session.

I start paddling out straight, and Fransauce warns me.

"Klaude, paddle towards those green signs.  You'll get smashed if you go that way.  The green buoys show the boats where the channel is and where the reef ends."

So, we paddle around the green sign all the way to the line up.  There were about three guys in the water: one sponger who rips, one okay asian dude, and one pretty good asian dude.

The sponger was definitely the stand out and had the spot dialed in.  He would take off, then drop knee stance mid face, do a 360 or a cutback, and then kick out.

The other asian dude that rips had Kaisers wired too.  He knew exactly how and where the wave would break, paddle maybe two or three strokes before dropping in, and do two turns on the wave.  I was amazed at their skill level.

It was a very relaxing, peaceful morning.  The water was definitely a little colder, but the howling off shores gave the wind chill factor a +10.

"Whenever it is trade wind at Diamondhead, it's off shore in Town," Fransauce said.

Fransauce had a few good rights.  On one of his first rights, he took off behind the peak, made it around the section, made the sponger back out, and continued his long ride in to the channel with a few cutbacks.

I got two okay lefts that allowed for one cutback.

Kimukatsu!  Cheese, Original, Black Pepper, and Okonomiyaki

The waves went flat as the time passed.  I thought it was going to stay consistent all morning, seeing how there was a swell coming.  But i was wrong.  There were waves, but it wasn't consistent enough to be trading waves with everybody.

Fransauce said he was cold, and although I was wearing a jacket, it was cold for me too!!  So i could only imagine how he felt.

On this one wave, I was trying to get out of the way of Fransauce and Asian ripper surfer as they split the peak.  While I paddled over the wave, I felt my fins catch one of the old, rusty pipes under water.  Aloha welcome to Hawaii.  Just don't look at your fins, I told myself...

There was an older guy with short hair who paddles to the line up towards the end of our session. His first wave was a nice right where he did one of the smoothest 360's ever.  It was almost like he didn't have any fins in his board.  This guy too had the place dialed in.  He was always on the peak, three paddling in to waves with finesse and ease.

We surfed for about two hours today. It wasn't an epic surf session.  It was another one of those, "Ho brag, let's go check out da waves brag.  If it's good, we paddle out k?" kind of days.  Still, super fun!

So bad, yet so good. 

Snow Factory

We handle some business matters, namely Fransauce getting his Hawaii state license.  Fransauce got his driver's license successfully, so now he trades his California license to kill for a Rainbow drivers license of peace and love.  He bought me a Langoisa Musubi for the wait.

We go to eat at a place called KimuKatsu, which is in town.  It's a quiet, quaint place, and very Japanese.  They slice their pork deli style, combine them with cheese, or original, or black pepper, and have numerous dipping sauces.  The rice was excellent, the meat was tender and juicy, and the kizami cabbage was solid and delicious.  It was a wonder how this place didn't have more people in the restaurant!!  It should have a line out the door.  This was an amazing place that any person can appreciate.

Then we ate at Snow Factory.  This place was good, but I still prefer the old style shaved ice.  The shaved ice here is almost like ice cream shavings.  It is still pretty fluffy, but I personally prefer the shaved ice.  Still, it was very delicious.

Since we indulged so much for lunch, I decided to eat poke and beer for dinner.

Non-indulgent dinner

Mahalos Mother Ocean!! <3

Ua Mau ke Ea o ka ʻĀina i ka Pono - Sandy's and Diamondhead 061612

Tiny day at Sandy's

Sandy's surf sesh!  It was a small day at Sandy's... not really the best surf for the day.  It was maybe 1 foot Hawaiian scale.  A generous 1 foot at that.  No real rides for me, but B-sauce got a lot of waves.  He said he was blacking out on almost every wave, and didn't feel safe to be in the water.  After a long left, where he garnished a lot of speed and took a close out barrel, he said he was kind of dizzy and needed to sit out.  We all did, and we called it a day within forty minutes at Sandy's.  

We grabbed some Mitsuken chicken on the way home and grinded on that.

Mitsuken Garlic Chicken~

Then, Fransauce and I decided to go long boarding at Diamondhead.  We tried to jam two longboards into my economy sized car.  What a mistake.  ahahaha

We do what we can

I have a new respect for long boarders who are good.  First of all, carrying down those logs on the donkey trail was tough!!  But, I actually got down to the beach without much trouble.

Paddling that thing was a challenge...  It was pretty hard on the shoulders to be paddling such a huge board in the choppy, side shore surf.

Fransauce was riding a single fin, while I rode a thruster.  I saw Fransauce catch a handful of waves, making late drops on the face.

I had a few fun ones under my belt, but nothing memorable.  It was hard turning the thing!!!  And I wouldn't be able to kick out of the wave, so i just dove into the water.  Then the wind would push the board as i pivoted it back between my legs.

Warrior Bowl! RAWR

We both only lasted a little over an hour.  Longboarding is tough on the shoulders.  We were both sore as hell.  We had to go to Jewel or Juice for a Warrior bowl, which contained Acai, strawberries, kiwi fruit, banana, granola, and honey.  YUM!!!

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!!

Ua Mau ke Ea o ka ʻĀina i ka Pono - Diamondhead 061512

1-2 feet Hawaiian scale
Side shore
Warm water
Cloudy and Sunny

First time back at Diamondhead in over 2 years!  So stoked to walk down the donkey trail with Fransauce.

The air was filled with the scent of fresh, living seaweed.  I can always distinguish this smell from any beach in the world.  The donkey trail doesn't seem so bad, but I still manage to ding my board lightly on a tree branch.  It's been two long years since my feet have touched the sand of Diamondhad.  I missed the grainy sand, I missed the perfect turquoise of the ocean, I missed the long paddle outs, and I can't believe I'm here to surf again!  We walk out onto the rock and start paddling out. 

Instantaneously, I smile from ear to ear.  I could not help but smile.  The water felt so good!!  It was so refreshing to be in Hawaiian waters again!  The winds blew the water down and the tide was a little  high, but it didn't matter to me:  I was in Hawaii, surfing Diamondhead, with Fransauce.  There were only a few people out, and for good reason:  it was a "crappy" day for surf.  I caught one ok left and the rest of the time I was out of position for pretty much every wave.  It still didn't wipe away my smile though.  I was just so stoked to be in the water again.

Fransauce took out Alex's board, which seemed like one of those serious, high performance boards.  The board was long, narrow, but had enough beef to it to paddle into anything.  Fransauce caught a handful of waves, and seemed happy to be back home.

Fransauce - Back home at Diamondhead

Fransauce's flight took an unexpected detour to SFO because a lady in first class had a seizure.  He was all the way in the back when the PA announcement came up, asking if there were any medical professionals aboard the flight.  Fransauce raised his hand and volunteered to look at the lady.  There was another doctor aboard too, but Fransauce was doing most of the work since he is and EMT.  She started to vomit and urinate because she lost control of her bodily functions, and that got on her.  As they were landing in SFO, she had another seizure and so Fransauce had to "bag" her by using the air bag and pumping air into her lungs, as the gravity shifted up and down while the plane made an emergency landing in SFO.  They were stuck on the tarmac for three hours, while he was covered in her vomit and urine.  He said it was pretty intense, and just an overall crazy situation.  I told him it was a testament to his character and what he had trained for over the last year and a half, and it was brave of him to volunteer.  He could have easily not raised his hand at that moment.  But, he chose to raise his hand and save this lady's life.  So, his flight was delayed 6 hours, and there was no surf for either of us Thursday.

This session was a baptism of sorts; a cleansing.  It was for us to get reacquainted with Hawaiian waters once again.  Fransauce's stand out wave was a right, where he turned so hard he created a splash that was deafening to the ears.  He stuck the turn, and rode it out.  He was genuinely stoked for that wave.

There were so many dark, tanned chicks surfing!!  It was so nice staring at their nice butts in bikinis.  ONe of them knew what she was doing.  The others were meh.  But hey, they surf!  Automatically hot in my books.

There were a lot of long boarders in the water.  A lot of Japanese surfers too.  Apparently, this area of Oahu is heavily populated by Japanese people.  But if you think about it, Hawaii is populated with a lot of Japanese people.

This one dude on a single fin was killing it today.  His bottom turns were so deep and stylish.  He looked on the brink of falling because his bottom turn was so deep.  he caught every set wave and took them for nice, long rides.

Diamondhead Market & Grill

there were some short boarders out today too.  Some of them were rippers, others like me were just noobs, making the most out of the conditions.  We surfed about 3 hours and had smiles on our faces from ear to ear.  Although i didn't catch any good waves, I was super happy to be in board shorts surfing Diamondhead again.

This day, Fransauce and I ate a quick breakfast at Diamondhead Market and Grill.  I had a mahi mahi plate.  The Aunty in the window recognized Fransauce immediately.

"Hey, I remember you," she said, with a glowing smile.

"I remember your face too!" Fransauce said.

Lau Lau

Fransauce is just that kind of guy:  people remember him because he touches them in special places in special ways.  Even after two years, this Aunty remembered him from then.

Pipikaula <3

And then, for lunch, B-sauce (Banana Sauce, aka Justin) took us to a spot called Helena's.  This is a local grind for authentic Hawaiian food.  The wait was long, so we got a side order of Mitsuken garlic chicken to share (only $2 for 4 pieces!)  We had everything from Lomi Salmon, Pipikaula, Poi, Ahi Poke, and Lau Lau.  My god, my mouth was having mouthgasms from all the delicious food.  Pipikaula is a meat on the bone cured by hanging them atop the grill on wires.  I have serious withdrawals about that place now.

Local Spot - Prepare to wait

Poi and Ahi Poke

We then had shaved ice that day, where I got Lemondrop, Ginger Ale, and Li Hing Pickled Mango with Haupia (coconut) syrup on top.  Hoooo Brah!!!!

Soooo good and fluffy

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!