1-2 feet
warm water
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| Flies |
Off shore
Sunny
I woke up at 600 AM to wake up Fransauce. After a papaya and lychee for breakfast, he
drove us first to Diamondhead. The waves
were blown out by the wind. It was a
strong trade wind but there was only one peak working, and that spot was
infested by longboarders. So, we head
into Town!
We go to park in front of a place called Flies, right next to Point Panic, a world famous body
surfing spot. Flies was a wave that
broke pretty close to shore, and there were a few surfers out in front. There was only one body surfer out at Point
Panic, and he was taking waves for about 15-20 yards.
Kewalos is a spot accessible by two points: one by jumping
off the rocks east into Kewalos Basin, which was where we went two days ago,
and another is by climbing down slippery stairs into the water west of Kewalo
basin. Today, we entered through the
stairs of Kewalo Basin. Fransauce made
the trek down and then I made my way down.
I slipped on the rocks and my leg got wedged in between the rocks. Of all places, I slip on the easiest paddle
out.
Kewalos is a left, but there is a right if you’re willing to
go over shallow reef. There was a big
tree that marked the take-off spot, and all the locals lined up there. There were some nice inside waves that others
were tearing up.
There were definite “local boys” out there, and one
“uncle.” These guys always caught the
set waves. They knew exactly how long to
wait for the sets, which wave to go for, and how to tear it up.
I didn’t catch one set wave because of these guys. And truth be told, a surf spot as famous and
as good as Kewalos should have a hierarchy like this, where the Uncles and
locals get first pick and visitors get the scraps.
All morning, I could feel the energy was a little off with
Fransauce. He was stressing over his
Fire Department test on Saturday, and it was pretty obvious his mind was
elsewhere. I appreciate him surfing with
me during this time, but he seemed really troubled and unhappy. Half way through the session, Fransauce tells
me he is going in. He tells me to take
my time and that he will be waiting for me at the parking lot where we
parked.
So here I was, at the world famous Kewalos, all by
myself. It was a peaceful session for
the most part. I had a left that I
snaked Fransauce on, but he couldn’t make the section so I guess it was
ok. I got to the face and did a small
cut back on the white water section ahead of me.
I wish I had gotten one of those sets, but it was impossible
to catch a wave here with the local boys in the water. They must surf Kewalos every day, all
day. Fransauce advised me to be careful
if I go right since I will be suffing on shallow reef. But it seemed that these were the only waves
I was allotted by the locals.
Even when I sat behind the Uncle in the white Hurley rash
guard and the local boy with a black shirt, I couldn’t catch any of the sets
since they were taking weave #1 and wave #2 of the set. Since it was a 3 wave set, every body else
was left out the back to scratch for the third and final wave.
I sat next to a surfer who looked like Fransauce. He had long hair, dark skin, and a huge,
bright smile. He and I split the peak
twice on the inside, where I went right and he went left.
On the first of the rights, I saw a huge warp the wave. The wave jacks up right there, and I get
pitched from the jump. I can tell the
reef is right there, and for some reason, I decide to grab on the rock. I felt my fingers get grated on the rocks as
I held on until the white water washed over.
I felt my feet and knees get dragged on the reef as well. Well, no time to look at my cuts, but I know
I’m cut up, that’s for sure. I had to
paddle towards the Kewalos basin and back out to the line up.
Two cute Japanese girls were surfing too. They too were locals, and knew all the other
locals in the water. They were no
dunsky’s; they were good surfers.
There was on e dude that I felt did not belong in the
water. He was a white dude, and sat
outside the peak. But he would paddle
for some sets that swung wide, and some waves where a guy was already
riding them. Maybe he was hoping they would fall and he
could sneak a snake on them. Who
knows.
After three hours in the water, I decided to paddle back
in. Fransauce was waiting patiently for
me in the lot. It was another fun
session in Hawaii, and I got to surf a world famous spot!
 |
| Kua 'Aina burgers |
After surf, we eat at Kua ‘Aina, a burger spot. I got the pineapple burger with fries, and
Fransauce got a cheeseburger with fries.
It’s been months since my last burger, and boy was it tastey. But, I could feel my stomach telling me, “I
don’t like what you just put in here…. You’re gonna pay for this…!” Whatever, I’m on vacay.
Ok, so not whatever.
I actually made conscious efforts to eat a little more healthy
throughout the rest of the day. I
dragged B-Sauce to Ala Moana mall to do some shopping, and we went to Goma Tei,
a noodle joint. He raved about the
vegetarian cold noodles. It was a choice
between Korean cold noodles, and Goma Tei, located in the mall, so I made the
call that we should just go to Goma Tei.
It was very refreshing, and extremely filling. You could pour on the sauce, which was sesame
and miso base, all over the noodles, or eat them like tsuke-men, where you dip
the noodles into the sauce. That meal
was a satisfying meal for any hot summer day.
On top of that, my stomach was happy to welcome some much-needed veggies
back inside of me. Who would have
thought vegetables and noodles could fill you up so much?
We go off to a Korean market later to take care of some
shopping for the BBQ Thursday night.
 |
| Goma Tei's Vegetarian Cold Noodles |
That night, Shizzles came home, so he and I decided to eat
at Hale Viet Nam restaurant right up the street. We had to park in this lot where you pay
$0.75 for parking. A welcomed sight as
opposed to paying a minimum $3 in LA.
 |
| Imperial Rolls - YUMMMMM |
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| Pho Ga with Tendon |
We ordered fried Imperial rolls, a beer, and Pho. The fried Imperial rolls were so
delicious!! The taste of the rolls with
the sauce and the pickles was amazing.
The Pho had great broth, and warmed my soul. This isn’t necessarily “Hawaiian” but it was
delicious nonetheless. We sat and ate a
total of twenty minutes, and we were out of there. Straight up grind session!!
Mahalos Mother Ocean!!!
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