Ua Mau ke Ea o ka ʻĀina i ka Pono - Cromwell's 062112

1-2+ feet

Warm/cool water

Sunny

Trade winds

Fransauce, pre surf MW3

We surfed Cromwell’s this day.  Cromwell’s is located east of Diamondhead, and is known for a rock you can jump off from into a deep tide pool.  This spot is nextled in between multi million dollar houses.  There is a staircase that leads down to a beach area with exposed dead coral for footing.  There was a tent set up on the coral, and a few more people making their way out to the other parts of the beach, perhaps to lay out, eat, drink or smoke pakalolo. 

There is a lagoon area where there is sand and small fish swimming.  In the middle of the lagoon area, there is a small rock island that one can observe small fish, swimming around in the pool.  A girl in a green bikini top and her boyfriend were on the small island when we paddled out.

Fransauce led the way, since there was a distinct channel that we needed to paddle through.  We had to paddle right beside the rocks, and then straight out into the ocean.  Fransauce told me how in his “waterman” days, he would paddle from here to Diamondhead on a longboard, catch a few waves, and then paddle back or walk back to Cromwell’s.  Going to Diamondhead was easier, he said, since the trade winds would push him to Diamondhead.  It was the paddle back to Cromwell’s that was killer. 

So we are paddling through choppy waters towards the line up.  We paddle out straight, since there are multiple peaks.  Cromwell’s is an open ocean break, where the waves hit a big reef and peel both lefts and rights.  The waves here had a lot of power.  The size was 2 feet+ Hawaiian scale.  The sets were somewhat unpredictable, and cleaned the line up like a steam roller.  The plus side of this spot was that nobody was out.  We had the line up all to ourselves, plus one other dude.  The waves were not “good” but it was nice to finally be isolated from all the people: the Uncles, the Locals, the Boys, the Wahines, all of them.  It was just us and the raw, open ocean. 

I caught half a wave today.  I say only ½ since the wave I actually caught was so unpredictably powerful and strong that I accidently kicked out of the wave.  It was a really nice left, but I was not prepared for how much speed and power was on this wave.  Right when I popped up, my feet felt the G-forces and my board felt like a rocket ship.  Before I knew it, I had kicked out of the wave.

Fransauce was killing it in these conditions.  He caught a handful of waves, taking them far inside.  He took both lefts and rights, but the rights were opening up for him a lot more.  The trade winds made the rights harder to ride since the winds blew at you, and your board would lift up on the take off.

The wipe outs here were pretty forgiving for the power of the waves.  I had a few “bad positioning” wipe outs where I was too deep on the wave, and got pitched over, but the wave didn’t really pound me onto the reef.  I mostly rolled underwater and got let go once the wave passed.

I started working the inside waves more.  I got some quick rides in the first few minutes sitting on the inside.  But the waves just shut down after these few quick rides.  “No more small waves for you, brah,” said the Ocean.

So, I move towards, Fransauce.  Just when I thought the waves shut down, the clean up set comes in.  We both get pounded further and further in.  After about five minutes of being bullied by the Ocean, we call it a day.

Fransauce guides me back to the channel, pointing over a group of people jumping off the rock.  We finally get back to the sandy lagoon, and walk out.

Ono's Hawaiian Seafood - Tako & Ahi Shoyu Poke

Once I look back at the line up, it looks like a far, far away land that I imagined surfing.  It didn’t feel like I was actually there, surfing and eating shit.  It felt mostly like a day dream, where the water was clear blue, the reef stared blankly back at you, and the winds were howling trade winds.

More people were on the beach, planning for a day of fun in the sun.  I had a lot of fun because there was no body at this surf spot today.  It was just the waves, Frsanauce, and myself.  I couldn’t have asked for a more perfect day.

We grab some Ono Hawaiian Seafood for post surf grinds.  This place used to only have two parking spots, but they tore down the Shell station next to it, so that lot is empty and allows for anyone to park there.  They used to only have two or three kinds of poke, but now they have eight kines.  They used to not have a cash register either.  Nor a menu.  And it used to be around $5 for a poke bowl and soda.  Now, it’s kind of popular and people are catching on, and so it’s a few dollars more, but still worth it. 

Shizzle's Sliders

This day was also the Dojo’s BBQ day, hosted by the members of the Dojo, including myself.  We had a wonderful array of food, including Shizzle’s amazing sliders, Seth’s stuffed jalapeno cream cheese crab cakes wrapped in bacon (I failed to secure a photo), lots of beef kalbi and tongue, and B-Sauce’s BBQ chicken, which was hands down the best of the best. 

Shizzles, double fisting, and B-Sauce, trolling

With plenty of beer going around, most people passed out by 900 PM.  Da Boys of the Dojo stayed up, pacing themselves with the beers.  Getting the BBQ pit was an adventure, since the grill’s propane was leaking, we had to wing it out with two small BBQ pits.  I think it worked out perfectly for the whole night. 

And like all great BBQ’s the clean up was most important.  We cleaned up the house as if nothing had ever happened at all.  And shame on those who sand-bagged all that beer!!  What a waste!

Mahalos Mother Ocean!!